Took my coach (27RLSS) in for some warranty work. It had a water leak in the black tank line. Dealer replaced the check valve. In the process they cut all the way across the coroplast from side to side in one spot. Plus cut up the area near the black tank in three spots. Is this normal proccedure for under coach work to just cut the coroplast anywhere, then tape it? Or were they supposed to drop the coroplast down to do the work?
ATF: ElkRidge - Sliced up my coroplast underbelly
- Thread starter sengli
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Re: ATF: ElkRidge - Slced up my coroplast underbelly
Hi sengli,
Our underbelly is in 2 pieces because of the drop-frame on our rig. When the black tank gate valve was replaced, they let the coroplast down to work on it. If there's a single piece from front to rear, it might be tougher to avoid cutting it.
I assume your concern is over whether the tape is sufficient. Some people have added a crosspiece of wood or metal (some say don't use wood) so the coroplast can be secured with screws and then taped at the seam.
Hi sengli,
Our underbelly is in 2 pieces because of the drop-frame on our rig. When the black tank gate valve was replaced, they let the coroplast down to work on it. If there's a single piece from front to rear, it might be tougher to avoid cutting it.
I assume your concern is over whether the tape is sufficient. Some people have added a crosspiece of wood or metal (some say don't use wood) so the coroplast can be secured with screws and then taped at the seam.
Called Heartland direct and asked them how they would approach a repair in the under belly. They said that cutting the coroplast is normal, depending on where the problem is. Where mine was cut up there was interference with the axles etc. So much for the one peice underbelly design that is touted so much in the marketing brochures. I think this is crummy. And to add insult to injury the dealer didn't take the time to tape up the cuts...I had to do it.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
On our ElkRidge 34QSRL, when we decided to add heat tape and heat pads to our tank and pipes, we determined there was no easy way to get into the underbelly without cutting. The spare tire, as well as the rear stabilizer jacks, are secured *after* the underbelly in in place. (not to mention the gas line running 2/3 the length of the rig.) We cut ours in two places (in front of the rear jacks and behind the spare tire (located at the front of the rig for us). We also had to cut around the drain pipes and low-point drains, as well as cuts near the brake wires. Getting the underbelly out from around the axles was the hardest part.
We also had quite a time wrestling that back into place, and taping was a challenge, as well. We cut ours right at the cross supports. We used a thick, window flashing tape (about 6" wide) to tape ours back. Click here for similar. 9 mo later, still holding.
For the work you mention, I am not sure they could have avoided some cutting around the pipes, but probably saved you "billable time" doing it the way they did.
Erika
We also had quite a time wrestling that back into place, and taping was a challenge, as well. We cut ours right at the cross supports. We used a thick, window flashing tape (about 6" wide) to tape ours back. Click here for similar. 9 mo later, still holding.
For the work you mention, I am not sure they could have avoided some cutting around the pipes, but probably saved you "billable time" doing it the way they did.
Erika
Talking to the tech at heartland he told me they would rather the dealers NOT cut the coroplast in they could. He said they pay by the linear foot for warranty work if the dealer can drop the under belly down for the repair. So if the dealer drops the belly down with out cutting it, they get paid a premium. Cutting the belly makes sense most of the time becuase of the obstacles, I understand that. One dealer right by the factory insisted they dont make a habit of cutting up the belly for any of the repairs.
