To Fill or Not To Fill HW Tank When Not in Service?

57chevyconvt

Well-known member
When the HW heater is not in service for a few months, should I empty the tank and leave it dry or should I fill the tank to minimize oxidation that could possibly cause rusting of the interior wall of the tank? Would appreciate your experience concerning this subject.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Even after we left the full time lifestyle, we leave the hot water heater full. If I know I won't be using the rig for a month or two, I'll run a mix of water and bleach through the fresh water system using the on board tank and pump. That keeps the system clean & fresh and only takes a few minutes to clear out with fresh water.
 

Willym

Well-known member
My opinion is that a full tank will corrode at a lower rate than a wet empty one. An empty tank is full of air containing oxygen. In power plants where I worked, we preferred to keep our boilers and piping full during plant outages.
 

plumberdude

Well-known member
Hey There 57chevy
All water tanks are glass lined, all the piping in trailers are some form of platic. Therefore i don"t think oxidation should be a problem.There is alot of info out to pick from.Hope to see at the Oct. rally in Boerne Tx ..have fun see on the road.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The only time my heater is empty is during winter storage. Once I park in at the seasonal site in May, it stays full until October. I do shut off the heating element when we're not "in residence," though. And my anode rod is on it's fourth season.
 

RAHanock

Active Member
We empty our HW tank after each trip. Even if only 2 to 3 weeks between trips. I have found that if I don't there is a strong Hydrogen-Sulfide smell that develops and my wife won't drink or cook with the water. I drained the tank on one such occasion due to the smell and was amazed at what I found - it looked like milk curd in the tank - lots of it. That convinced me to drain after each use. I have not had any similar issues with the fresh water tank that I leave partly filled on a similar schedule.
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
I agree with Reed. I find if we use our heater at all on the cool down to ambient "Bugs" grow (I'm being polite). It is these bugs that create the HS smell. To prove this, let your heater cool to ambient, don't empty for 3 > 4 weeks after using the heater. Then pull the anode rod. You'll see the growth (milky white) that is growing on the anode rod - it looks, feels and acts like snot and is gross. It takes some sand paper to get the rod back to decent looking shape. Also notice this slime actually pitted the rod. No way am I going to use water from that tank near my body or food. It will take several tank empty/fill cycles to at least get the smell out. Once the smell is gone you are consuming the dead bugs if you use the water for cooking (that's also true if you consume pasteurized milk - u drink the dead bugs). Leaving the heater (heat) on kills the bugs because of high temp. Putting chemicals (bleach) into the water also kills the bugs. If you cook with bleached water be careful of the ratio, sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is a known carcinogen. In fact a few years back it was almost pulled from the market because of this. These bugs start growing almost immediately once the cool down begins and they keep growing and growing and growing until they are killed or removed. We experienced this with our boat water heater too – any/every water heater or 'other vessel' will do this glass lined or not.

I drain my tank after every trip. Seeing that gross anode rod once was all it took to convince me.

Happy RVing !
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The white, slimy "growth" you may see on the anode rod when you pull it out is the hydrated corrosion product of the metal. Let it dry and it will be crusty, just like iron rust. If you're getting a noticeable rotten egg smell from your water heater, it may indicate that your water supply has an elevated level of sulfides in it. The actual sulfide content should be in the water quality report, if you can get a copy of it.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Very interesting topic hear gang as I'am getting ready to close up the rig and head back to MI. for 3 weeks and keep the rig hear in Fl. I have always drained my hot water tank when not in use. But I also do a bleach clean out when I return to the rig. I've been doing this method for 20 years and have never noticed any smell or odor coming from the tanks or fresh water. I do flush my hot water tank a few times a year and also do a bleach line cleaning also. JMHO
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
We empty the water heater after every trip to stop the stink.

Remember the movie Young Frankenstein when Gene Wlder jumps back and exclaims : “ IT’s Alive !” The next time you pull a snot covered anode rod or get “curds” from your water heater remember that movie scene. The white snotty slime is
sulfur bacteria and it is alive. It formed when the hot water cooled off enough to promote growth and it grew a bacteria colony which is in your water heater and clinging to the rod. It is not an inanimate crystalline structure (calcium or rod material) it is a carbon based living organism. This sulfur bacteria is normally the source of hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas which smells like rotten eggs. When the colony is permitted to air dry and the water leaves the bacteria ,it dies, leaving behind a residue the color of the colony - see below.


Sulfur bacteria are also a host bacteria. This means it can be the starting culture for other bacteria’s such as iron. Bacterial slime may be white, grey, black or reddish brown if associated with iron bacteria. You will still get the rotten egg smell regardless of type. It has been stated these are harmless bacteria’s. However, if they formed from cross contamination (sewer waste) then they can be deadly. This is why we need to be “clean freaks” while filling and dumping to prevent cross contamination.

Water supplies (wells) sometimes have sulfites in them. If this is the case the water heater sacrificial anode rod (usually made out of magnesium metal) will supply electrons to the sulfites and create H2S. However, when this is the case the slime or curds will not be present in most cases. This is because this is actually a chemical reaction - not the birth or growth of an organism. In addition the H2S smell usually permeates ‘ALL’ the water and smells from well to tap. The sulfites present in the well usually react with metals (electrons) present in the water while it is still in the well. Hence, the rotten egg smell will be present in the RV fresh water tank as well as the water heater. This can be easily observed by getting your nose close to the cold water outlet. Turn it on, if it stinks with first water out - sulfites are in the RV fresh water tank usually from the supply. Sulfites in wells are usually documented to a region on locale. It is highly unlikely that every well you fill your RV or boat from has sulfites in it. Rather, you have live bacteria as stated.

Elevated temperatures above 160 F (71C) over night or chlorine dosing will kill the bacteria which then should be flushed out of the system or water heater. If the H2S gas smell returns – repeat or retain professional services.

The above can be verified at your state board of health (water well department) or a competent well drilling company.

 
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57chevyconvt

Well-known member
Tom,
Thanks for the above detail explanation of the genesis of the fowl odor from the HW and fresh water tanks. If I would have reached back in my memory to the days when we would pressure test tanks and piping and leave the water in the system only to see failure the metal due to 'sulfur reducing bacteria' that actually ate its way through the metal, I would have known to drain and dry the tanks between usage. Lots of good thinking and input to answer my question. Thanks a bunch. The HW tank is dry and ready for the next outing.
 
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