Can we get Heartland to make a change...

The microwave/convection vent flap improvement request has officially been submitted to Heartland.

Thanks,

Jim

boatto5er said:

I kind of like the the one that doesn't open/close. Would probably put some screen behins it when installing to keep the insects out and then change that out every couple of years (greasing up you know). No moving parts, nothing to break.

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Could get a bit "drafty" on cold windy days below the microwave.

back2nature said:

I forgot to add that after the very windy night, I gave my husband two little rubber "dots", that you put on the bottom of vases and such so as not to scratch your furniture. He put them on the vent outside and now it's very quiet, even in the wind. We think we can still lock it for traveling. Haven't tried that yet.

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We did this. Find the rubber dots that are about 1/4" across. Position them so the flap edges can still be secured with the tabs. So far, no banging.


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Here's the link I mentioned about the fenders. Sorry, but it's another forum.

http://www.myrvtalk.com/mods/7562-fender-install.html

That is what we experienced when one of the vent doors flew off one time on the Bighorn. Very chilly at times.

JohnDar said:

Here's the link I mentioned about the fenders. Sorry, but it's another forum.

http://www.myrvtalk.com/mods/7562-fender-install.html

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Sorry John - I am unable to open the link - the forum requires membership. Maybe you can "paraphrase" thread?

Brian

See attachment. Jim

No photos

Here's how I fixed the weak flapping fender skirts. I just happened to have a 4' X 8' piece of foam insulation 1/2" thick and it was covered both sides with a material that was a type of a fiber paper of some kind The paper was coated with something that made it water proof so it was fairly strong. I then traced the shape of the inside of the skirts and cut the fiber board to fit. I used silicone spread liberally on the board and placed them inside the skirts then clamped them gently with some wood clamps. When the silicone set up the sides were 100% stiffer and stronger. I used thick lines of silicone because there may be some curve to those skirts and the foam board won't curve to much. You could score the inside of the board and close the clamps a little so the board will conform to the curve some. Any way it was real cheap and worked very well. Since they are hidden on the inside you can make several pieces instead of one. Some have mentioned using metal stays so reinforce the worst areas. They then had to screw them to the frame then the skirt. That's OK but you have to make holes and that creates another place where the flimsy skirts can crack. I eliminated that problem by just stiffening the entire skirt from front to back. It probably didn't take 4 hours and less than $50. The silicone is the most expensive part. You could probably use contractors cement in a tube. It's like contact cement and is used to glue your flooring under layement down to the 2X6' floor studs. This keeps your floors from squeaking.
JMTCW
TeJay

brianharrison said:

My 2011 Landmark has the Amana convection microwave with integrated fan. It vents out the top of the microwave; it does not vent outside the unit. I leave the outside flapper locked down all the time.

When I first got the Landmark, there was no flow to the outside vent (flapper never moved no matter what the fan speed). Upon closer inspection (up on a ladder), I found no flow to the outside and all flow just recirculating from the bottom of the convection microwave to the top.


I just replaced my Dometic convection/microwave only to find that the exhaust fan was not properly installed to vent fumes to the outside.
It is like your Amana venting to the top of the unit.The new LG microwave I installed required the fan unit to be rotated 180 degrees to enable
outside ventalation and I think the installers of our Dometic missed this step during the installation.
I am off track with this thread but thought it may be worth mentioning.
Brian

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Brian[/QUOTE]

Jim,

Photos are not working for me. Is it just me?

I also can not see the photos

back2nature said:

Jim,

Photos are not working for me. Is it just me?

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I'll hazard a guess that Jim copied the text from the other forum but the pictures didn't copy over. You probably need to register with the other forum for the original link to work and to see the pictures.

Dan's right. See the PDF that I put in that post. It has the article and pics in it.

jmgratz said:

No photos

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Try scrolling down a bit, they show up when I open Jim's .pdf file. I didn't realize that the log-in screen would come up with the link I posted. It's a free to join forum, though.

Jim, thanks for the photos! That's what I have envisioned for armor and easy install. Just need to work through all the other Honey Do Things first.

As to the fender skirts, I replaced the original supports, if you want to call them supports, between the tires with 12 ga. stainless steel brackets. In addition to the new brackets for a more positive means of supporting the middle of the fender skirt, I also installed some stainless steel fender washers under the screws that fasten the skirt to the trailer. I bent the fender washer to conform to the curvature of the plastic fender. The fender washers are about 1" in diameter. I painted the fender washers with white paint to match the fender and trailer side wall. The trailer has endured a trip to Alaska over the ALCAN without experience any breakage to the skirts due to flexing.

in response to the improved microwave flap. we will look at seeing what we can do. Thanks for all the input.

karykatz said:

in response to the improved microwave flap. we will look at seeing what we can do. Thanks for all the input.

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How about something like the dryer vent?