Undercarriage Hardware

Was attempting to remove some of that fake cardboard stuff they use to protect the undercarriage from the elements. Only problems is, Heartland skimped on the bolts. Now my two year old camper has bolts so rusted, most are breaking the heads off without coming out of the frame. I already have two broken bolts with the threads still stuck in the frame. I don't dare go any further because after awhile, I won't have enough bolts to hold the cardboard stuff back up.

Question 1: Any ideas? Getting some PB Blaster up there is going to be quite difficult since the fake cardboard is in the way. Plus most of the bolts are hidden inside the frame rails.

Question 2: Has anyone tried to tap new holes in their frame for new bolts? I imagine it is quite thick.

Question 3: Is there a sensible explanation of why Heartland would not have used galvanized bolts underneath there? Did they really save that much money using weak bolts that will break by hand when they rust and seize to the frame?

I know y'all get tired of hearing me complain. But honestly, you give me so many reasons to.

Don't even bother to try and get the broken studs out. And no need to drill and tap new holes.
Throw out the broken parts and get some Sheet Metal #14 x 1" Hex Washer Self-Drilling screws. Along with those you will need some Fender Washers.
Oh, and constructive criticism is one thing but incessant complaints do get a little bit tiring. Honestly.

Realist

As Realist said its not a big deal, pick up some TEC screws (self drilling screws) and fasten it back up when your done. I use a cordless drill on high speed to drill the hole then switch to low to screw them in.

Barneyfife,

I twisted off a few heads with the socket wrench. Since switching to an impact wrench, no problems. I find self tapping screws go in easier if I drill 1/8" hole in the frame first.

The 'fake cardboard" is called Correplast.

Don't worry about the broken ones. Just do as the others have said. use a cordless drill and nut driver and go in with some new self drillers. #14 X 1" should be plenty. Just so you know, pretty much every manufacturer installing underbelly material uses the same method and fastener type. It's not exclusive to Heartland.

You can get 410 series stainless steel screws that will also rust. They only make self drilling screws in zinc plated, with a stal guard or weather guard coating or 410 SS. The drill tip is not hard enough if they were to offer a 300 series stainless screw. We use the 410 SS screws at work all the time. They form surface rust on them but that is all the farther it goes. Usually the stal guard or weather guard coating gets compromised when you run the screw threads in and the socket scratching the head and they rust anyway.


Steve and Carrie
HOC#2252
Sent from my iPad mini using Tapatalk

I sprayed some undercoating on all the screw heads when it was new. I did this on my old TT never had an issue.

BarneyFife said:

Question 2: Has anyone tried to tap new holes in their frame for new bolts? I imagine it is quite thick.

Question 3: Is there a sensible explanation of why Heartland would not have used galvanized bolts underneath there? Did they really save that much money using weak bolts that will break by hand when they rust and seize to the frame?

I know y'all get tired of hearing me complain.

Click to expand...

2) Self drillers and fender washers

http://www.mcmaster.com/#teks-screws/=n1nm0u

3) Ah yup - same thing every other trailer manufacturer uses, including utility, farm work etc.

4) well ......................

If they still use salt on the roads in NC....then maybe you should move out west. We dont have a rusting problem here.