Hello - New From Northern California

Hello Forum,

Been lurking for two weeks to see what's here. I'm overwhelmed and overloaded!

Just bought a 2013 Big Country 3691SK but haven't taken possession. Having a problem with gross underboy corrosion issue. Anyone have this issue with a brand new rig?

Looking forward to being an active memeber since I'm new to RVing. Much to learn but eager to start and many of my answers to my questions I've already found here.

Ken

Hi kenhhayes,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. There's lots of helpful information here along with a great bunch of friendly people who are quick to lend a hand or give an answer.

gross underbody corrosion issue

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Ken, a picture is worth a thousand words. Any chance you have one you can share. Or at least tell us what you mean by this?

If your coach has been at the dealer for a while, it could have been transported during the snowy winter months through states that use salt on the roads. (Remember, it came from Indiana, via a transport driver). If the dealer did not clean the undercarriage, rust was sure to follow. What to do? I'm not sure, I'm sure others can chime in. I probably need to hear it, ours has some.


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Thanks Dan. I'm so new I haven't a clue how to upload pictures on the Forum. I have 17 photos the dealership took to share to give you an idea of what the corrosion looks like. I spent some time trying to figure it out but no luck.

Real problem is this is brand new. Haven't traveled one inch in this yet and it looks like something 3-5 years old. It's a failure someplace.

Additionally, I work for the Department of Defense with my primary job as a Corrosion Control Specialist. Perhaps I know to much for my own good, but a powder coated frame shouldn't fail this bad, so soon. The manufacturer's data plate had a 2/12 build date and was transfered from Elkhart to Washington State in mid November 2012. I saw it the first week in December and decided to buy. I did my walk through end of April and noticed the corrosion but didn't take possession because of the problem.

I'm working with Lippert and they seem coordial, but I'm working with the dealership to get quotes to blast/paint it so at least I have a level playing field to do the underbody corrosion maintenance everyone winds up doing at some point.

Any tips on uploading photos would be appreciated. As soon as I figure it out, I'll post them.

Thanks - Ken

Ken,

When the edit window is open to type text, there's a row of icons at the top of the window. The third from the right should let you insert an image.

kenhhayes said:

Hello Forum,

Been lurking for two weeks to see what's here. I'm overwhelmed and overloaded!

Just bought a 2013 Big Country 3691SK but haven't taken possession. Having a problem with gross underboy corrosion issue. Anyone have this issue with a brand new rig?

Looking forward to being an active memeber since I'm new to RVing. Much to learn but eager to start and many of my answers to my questions I've already found here.

Ken

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Ken:
Welcome to the Northern California group. I noticed you have "Nv" down in your poster information on the left of your posting - No bother. Are you interested in getting together with other Heartlanders? We have a rally scheduled in Jackson, Ca. (40 miles southeast of Sacramento) Sept. 13-15th. This would be a good chance to meet 20 or more other Heartland owners, and meet John Dawson, our owners group Western Regional Manager. The thread on the rally is
here: //heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...on-9-13-2013-to-9-15-2013?p=294982#post294982
If the rally is full, or you can't bring your rig yet, you can still attend and just stay off-site.
There is also a Western Regional Rally in Temecula, Ca. (between L.A. and San Diego) Oct. 10 to Oct. 14th that will be attended by Jim Beletti, who is the Heartland National Owners Club President, and a Heartland employee, who might be able to get you help with your problems. John Dawson is running that rally, too. Here is the link to that thread: //heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...-10-10-2013-to-10-14-2013?p=289487#post289487

I'm in Sacramento, and have a lot of free time. Send me a Private Message (PM) by clicking on my username next to this posting.

Bill, your Socal "fearless leader" is doing the regional with John.

Dan,

Well, I think I figured this upload thing out. Take a look and your toughts.

TX - Ken

Ok Ken, now I'm confused. In addition to the corrosion, the coroplast shown in the pictures has clearly been removed and reinstalled. The large gap and damage in some points is not how it looks coming out of the factory. Do you know anything about the what's happened to the coroplast underbelly on this trailer? Maybe it has something to do with the corrosion.

Looks like ton of rust. Where ya been?

Dan,

Good eye. I noticed it as well. No, I know nothing of the Corroplast being removed or reinstalled. I would think there would be additional corrosion damage if it were tampered with. However, the break down of the powder coating shouldn't be related.

Is this something I need to discuss with the dealer or Heartland? All I'm hoping for is a fresh start with a 'new' rig. I can deal with all the maintenance owners are required to performed but I'm starting out with a hand full of headaches and I haven't passed the 'GO' line yet!

Thanks for the heads-up.

Ken

tmcran said:

Looks like ton of rust. Where ya been?

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Ready for this...I have't travel one inch in my 'brand new' rig yet. It sits at the dealership.

It was built in 2/12 and shipped during 11/12 to the dealership in Spokane, WA. Closed the deal in 3/13 and did the walk through the next month. I still trying to resolve this.

Ken

Ken,

To me it really looks like something else has taken place besides sitting on the Heartland lot waiting to be shipped or sitting on the dealer lot waiting for you to buy it.

If what you typed is correct that the unit was built in February 2012 and shipped to this dealer in November 2012, that sounds pretty unusual. I'd call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032 / 574-262-8030. Have your VIN # ready. Ask where the trailer was between February and November. I wouldn't be surprised if this trailer was at another dealership in between.

The condition of the coroplast is a clue. There may be something you haven't been told that would explain the condition of the trailer.

Dan,

You must be a private detective or have a 6th sense on how this industry works. What you mentioned makes sense.

I sent an email to Lippert last Wednesday with 17 photos (one with the VIN) and CC'd Heartland Service and Chris Hermon (President). Lippert contacted me on Friday and seemed concerned and willing to make good with my issue(s). Mr. Gred Legett, Heartland Warranty, also call and left a voice mail the same day. I returned his call a short time later and left him a voice mail but haven't heard from him since. From what I learned from calling a Mr. Dave Ian, Heartland Warrenty, two months ago, he flatly stated Heartland doesn't warranty corrosion and I had to take this up with the frame subcontractor (Lippert). I'll send you the email I sent via PM.

I'll call Mr. Legett back on Friday and see if we can connect. I'll mention the Coroplast issue to see if this has some related issue with the corrosion or why this material seems to have been disturbed when it shouldn't have been.

I realize manufactuers hold finished goods before they release them for the new year model. I'm unsure when Heartland releases their new years' offerings, but sitting for nine months before it shipped to Spokane, WA seems rather long. It could have sat at another dealership before it was transported west and been driven over salted roads without anyone taking the time to power wash the underbody when it came off the road. It was shipped mid November last year and certainly could have been driven over salted roads during that time frame.

I'll post what I find out on Friday. Thanks for all your insight and help.

Ken

My rig was pulled from Indiana in Jan. 2011 to California.
When it arrived at the dealer, they didn't wash the underside.
I didn't notice it for a month or so.

After only one trip across I80 in winter and failure to wash it down for 6 weeks, mine was not quite as bad as yours, but close.

I cleaned it as best I could.
Then I went and bought two rattle cans of Rustoleum black. I sprayed all the affected areas of the undercarrige.
Two and a half years later, nothing has come back and it still looks good.


Trace

Hey Trace,

Powder coating metal is one of the best coatings applied to metal framestructures we see RV's built on. If it's done right (Quality Control,proven production processes, simple manufacturer and dealer prep), we shouldn'tsee it fail for some time. All metal will begin to show the first signsof corrosion at some time. It's inevitable. What will eventuallycatch up to you is if you ignore it. You haven't and I applaud you!
Tricks at the dealership is to rattle can a black coatingto cover what little corrosion may appear. Makes them look pretty while it’s on the lot for sale. Normally though, it’s nothing to worry aboutif you catch it early. I’ll bet thereare a number of owners who haven’t looked underneath to see what’s there. Given an unknown, variable amount of time, itwill advance to a stage that may impair the structural integrity and potentialsafety of rig if you don’t keep an eye on it. Consider it an owners normal maintenance ‘to do’ list every year. At the very least, power washing the underframe after a long road trip during the winter (salted roads) is almost agiven.
I work for the Department of Defense as a PreservationSpecialist (they call me Rusty – Corrosion Prevention and Control Expert). I keep an eye on anything from M1 Abrams MainBattle Tanks, Howitzers, tool boxes, nuts, bolts and screws. There was a study done in 2003 that proved itcost the DoD $2.8 billion is losses due to corrosion. As a tax payer, that doesn’t make me happy. I spend all my time preventing it,controlling it and mitigating those effects. It’s true; an ounce of prevention is worth of pound of cure.
Rust-Oleum is a proven product. There are others that are better, but whatyou’ve done so far should get you by. Ifit looks like it’s getting out of hand, consider using a rust converterproduct. They’re expensive, but itshould keep you corrosion free for up to 10 years with little prep work and aweekend’s worth of your time. If you’dlike more information, PM me and I’ll share the details. I don’t want to endorse products/proceduresin the Forum.
Good luck.

Ken,
Thanks. I might just take you up on that.

Trace

TandT said:

Ken,
Thanks. I might just take you up on that.

Trace

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X2! We let it get away from us. Could use some advice.


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Hello Erika,

First off, don't panic. If you own a 3-4 year old rig, you're probably fine but you may have some work on your hands to control it from now on.

Steel used for framing RV's are to a code and grade which gives enormous strength to its structure. However, if corrosion appears (as it will eventually) it begins to oxidize the metal by turning iron (ferrous metal) into oxidized iron (rust/corrosion). Steel is an alloy of iron with eight other elements of varying percentages which gives it different characteristics depending on what it's used for. Regardless, the base metal is iron.

Simply, for corrosion to appear, it needs moisture (water) which acts as an electrolyte and oxygen. The metal acts as a conductor where a very low voltage current then reacts with the electrolyte and oxygen to begin the oxidation process. It's simply an electrochemical reaction. Remove any of the three elements and corrosion is reduced significantly. Sounds easy, but we know different. Add in salt to the water and the process is speeded up. Salted roads equal accelerated corrosion if the salt isn't removed. Not removing the salt year after year (with the presence of moisture) and you can see the steel frame begin to deteriorate right before your eyes. Under all the right conditions and you might see failure long before you'rer not finished having fun.

Corrosion progresses in stages as defined by the Department of Defense (my employer):

Stage 0

• The painted surface shows no sign of cracking or paint bubbles.
• There is no pitting, no etching and the surface shows no rust stain or trace of rust.
• Surface coating is not compromised.

Stage 1

• The painted surface is bubbly or the paint bubbles have broken to reveal rusty red, black, or white corrosion deposits on the metal surface. This may be accompanied by minor etching or pitting of the metal.
• Surface coating has been compromised.

Stage 2

• Powered granular or scaled condition exits on the surface metal.
• Rusty red, black or white corrosion deposits are present.
• Metal surface may be etched or pitted.
• Metal beneath the corroded area is still relatively sound

Stage 3

• Surface conditions and corrosion deposits present are similar to Stage 2 except that metal in corroded area is unsound and small pin holes may be present.
• Rust, black or white corrosion accompanied singularly or in – combination with etching, pitting, or – more extensive surface damage.
• Loose or granular condition.

Stage 4

• Corrosion has advanced to the point where the metal has been penetrated throughout.
• No metal remains at the point of the most severe corrosion.
• There are holes in the surface area or metal is completely missing along the edges.

Now for what you'll need to do. First, power wash the underbody to remove contaminates and any loose corrosion. If you don't own a power washer, I would recommend an electrical over a gas powered one. Pressure over 2500 psi can damage components found underneath. Be very careful. You can purchase an electrical one for about $175 with 1800-2000 psi and can store it while traveling without a problem. You must still be cautious while using it.

Look into adding a cleaning agent to the power washer formulated to remove road film/salt. There are a number of them so check the web. Be careful to find the correct one to use specifically in a power washer. Some are sophisticated formulas that advertise they remove corrosion but may be dangerous to use if you don't know what you're doing and have the right personal protection equipment. I also find it hard to believe it will remove corrosion if it's Stage 2 or worst.

Let me end here for the night. I'll pick this back up with the next steps in a day or two.

Ken






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