Excessive Noise and jerking with 5th Wheel Hitch

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
NewCyclone;

In order for your hitch to couple correctly, the jaws should be closed when you back in to couple your fifth wheel. Look at page 6, illustration #10 of the attached instructions from Reese. http://www.reeseprod.com/fitguides/pdf/N30047.pdf

Hope this helps,

John

John.. the Sig. Series is different than what you have, only one u-shaped forged jaw. The jaw has to be opened first, locks only if backed in correctly and a safety pin that will only go in if locked correctly.....Ken
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Thanks for correcting me on that, Ken. I hate giving out bad information. Somehow I missed the difference.

John
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
Thanks for correcting me on that, Ken. I hate giving out bad information. Somehow I missed the difference.

John

Your welcome, John. If I new half of what you an most members on here know about RVing.... I wouldn't be here reading , learn something new about everyday.:DKen
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
As being a trucker for a few years, when I hook up, I always hold the trailer brake controller to full on and try to pull the trailer. If it is not latched properly you will know. To do this I always have electrical cord hooked up 1st. Do not put the landing gear up until you make sure that you are latched in. Bob:D
 

caddojay

Tired and Retired member
I wish I had the Hitch saver installed about 4 years ago. I watched the lock slide in and then out and then I pulled forward to jockey into a tight spot. The pin did not engage correctly. Apparently, the pin just grazed the jaws and moved the latch in and out. Thankfully I hadn't pulled up my landing legs very far and the fall only dented the bed a bit. I've seen many folks with the distinctive "V-notch" in their beds from the same situation. It can happen, so I inspect the jaws with a flashlight, now.
 

boatdoc

Well-known member
Gary, Do yourself a big favor and get the Bedsaver. When the trailer drops and I can almost guarantee it, you will thank yourself 3 times over for spending that little extra money. I watched helplessly as my best buddy dropped his on his NEW GMC. It was not pretty. The next week I ordered two, mine and his. We had to wait awhile to install his, as it was being brought back to new at the body shop!!!
 

donabel

Active Member
Teflon Pad

I never thought about it working as a shim. I just wanted to get rid of the grease.

I love it.
Don
 

leftyf

SSG Stumpy-VA Terrorist
The Bedsaver costs about $190. Given my great track record with all things towable...it's a no brainer. I never knew these things existed...I read it here first!

After the hitch...the second purchase will be the Bedsaver. I could mess up a steel ball with a rubber hammer. Just a little insurance here.
 

Delaine and Lindy

Well-known member
The Mor/Ryde pin box will take a lot of the chucking out because it gives side to side and front to rear movement. GBY...

Just a reminder to all. Make sure you do a pull test prior to fully raising your landing gear. When hooking up, hook IV cable to the Truck, then raise the landing gear about a inch off the ground then hold trailer brake and back truck up just a bit, then while still holding the trailer brake move Truck forward just a bit. I'm sure you are using the Roto Chocks, and know thats the last thing you remove before towing the trailer. Good Luck. OH yes the bed saver is a good back up system.
 

cmart

Well-known member
Hey I'd suggest find a friend who had a fiver and have him ride with you while you tow around the block, doesn't sound exactly right to me.
 

Trey

Member
JP...

Thanks.

As a newbie...I was pulling the handle open per what I was instructed by the dealer.

I appreciate the details, however I should have read it first.! :)

Trey
 

RubiconAg

Active Member
We have the bed saver (came as display package with our Husky 24k hitch) and have not had to use it.

However, when we first purchased the trailer we had a flatbed on the truck and a different hitch. Well, I had a brain fa*t and picked up the landing gear with the trailer just resting on the hitch and no chocks....I know, don't ask, I have no clue what I was thinking. The trailer rolled back and slammed the pin down on the steel flatbed. Luckily the diamond plate was enough to hold the trailer while I secured it and lifted it back up. That was a last year.

Since then, we put the bed back on the truck and bought the new hitch. I have never had to use the saver but it is there and if it happens again the new bed will be saved. Although I am now somewhat crazy when it comes to making sure everything is in place like it should be.
 

Cirrus

Member
I just thought that I'd let you fellows know that not all hitches are created equal! I bought a Reese 15K Pro Series. I'm not sure why it is called the "Pro Series" because it is entry level in cost and design. I have about 3/16" of play between the kingpin and the locking mechanism. Every time I pull away, I get a clunk, and you guessed it...every time I brake I also get a clunk. This gets real tiring on a long trip!!!
The hitch seems fairly well made with good welds and fabrication, but it was not made to exacting tolerances (at least mine wasn't).
:(
 
In addition to the teflon pad, I would highly suggest the Mor-Ryde hitch. We ordered one with our trailer, but it didn't make it in in time for the first trip. We were amazed at the difference on subsequent trips with the MorRyde - much smoother ride.
 

Larryheadhunter

X-Rookies Still Luving it
New Cyclone,
I had a similar problem when we first took off on our 32 day 10 state summer trip and I thought it was the Mor/Ryde pin cushion that was causing all the chucking and jiving. Make sure your tire pressure on your tow vehicle is lowered from highest PSI to suggested PSI at full load which is on your driver side door. After lowering the front from 80PSI to 70, and the rears from 80PSI to 65 like it was supposed to be, voila the ride became instantly smoother and my back isn't still in spasms. Also make sure your rigs tire pressure is where its supposed to be. We have E Chinese bombs and are changing to G Goodyear gsr 614's as soon as we get our first stimulus check, LOL as I crawled under the aluminum rims and could see that the rims were made for G rated tires at 3750 lbs. We have been told to run the E's at max psi of 80lbs but the G's which are maxed at 110PSI should be run at 85 lbs, but I would check that out with some of the senior members who made the change and understand better. Good luck.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Paul, you didn't say if you have the stock non-cushioned pin box and a non-slide hitch. I used the Mor/Ryde pin box and what a difference with "chucking". There are other aftermarket pin boxes out there also. Bob:D
 

cfulton

Member
Just my 2 cents.
I have the Pro 15K Reese and exerienced the chuck clang on our first 5ver----had the MorRyde pin hitch installed and no more chucking clanging or whatever.
Just purchased a new Big Horn 3055 and had them install the MorRyde hitch before leaving the lot!
Needless to say, I believe in the MorRyde products.
 

truknutt

Committed Member
For what it's worth - I have experienced some extra "slack" (for lack of a better term) with the Reese Rails. I have a 16K that allowed slop because the "feet" that go into the rail slots were narrower than the slots. I found a fix totally by accident. After having the Line-X sprayed I had to re-install the rails & hitch. I set everything up loosely; put the pins in and squared it all up, re-torqued all the mounting bolts so that the hitch was really tight in the rails. I have to pry to get it out. The only slop left in this setup is the kingpin/jaw connection and in the head swivel mounting assembly.

I now have a 20K for the Cyclone and its "feet" are a tad thicker in the slots. The jaws & kingpin are new so there is relatively no slop there, but some.
 
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