Polish Exterior

hapjack

Member
We are going to polish the exterior of our Big Horn with Nu-Finish has anyone used it on the vinyl decals?
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Yes. Use it on the front cap to help keep bugs from sticking too bad. Used on our boat w/decals for years.
 

For20hunter

Pacific Region Directors-Retired
Yes, I have used it on our Landmark and our Bighorn before that without any problems whatsoever.

Rod Ditrich
 

Westwind

Well-known member
I have used Nu Finish on my trailers, first my 2002 Sunnybrook and on my 2012 Bighorn and have had great results. I've always washed the trailers first with Simple Green to get the black streaks and grime off and then started on the NuFinish, it would remove some of the stubborn streaks that went from dark to light. I let it dry good before starting to clean it off. I did the Bighorn in November because we had some great fall weather and it should last until we get home in May - I can't say it lasts a year and I try to do the caps at least twice a year.
 

pegmikef

Well-known member
I use it on the BH and have used it on the boat, but I usually use 303 on all the vinyl. I seem to recall that the label says not to use nu-finish on vinyl. I think 303 probably gives better protection to the vinyl. I try to do the front cap at least two or three times a year
 

donr827

Well-known member
Question for users of Nu Finish. I have some oxidation on the rear cap. How would the cap look after using Nu Finish?
Don
 

Westwind

Well-known member
You will be able to tell a difference but it's not going to return it to what it was when new. The caps are tough to keep looking good, there are other products out there, one I can think of is Rejex, but they are work to apply where as NuFinish is fairly easy, the work is the wipe.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Donr827, I recently had some oxidation on the top area of my front cap.
I used a 6 inch orbital buffer along with some Meguiars Ultimate Compound Color & Clarity Restorer. Followed by Meguiars Flagship Marine Wax.
It looks like new again.
I don't think that there is a product that will cover up the oxidation. You have to remove it.

Peace
Dave
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
I don't think Rejex is more difficult to apply and remove than any other product. Apply, wait 15/20 minutes and wipe or buff off. It can be used on decals and was originally made for use on aircraft. Nothing sticks better than a 200 mph bug and they just hose off with Rejex. LOL

For those with oxidation on front and rear caps (2011 models mostly). The problem is in the coating that was applied and short of removing and painting (which I did) it will not go away. As I understand it, this was not a Heartland issue alone.
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
NuFinish, Rejex, Simoniz Ice and others are essentially the same product. They are Polymers not waxes. The same type products as the "Lifetime" finish the dealers want to sell you for hundreds of dollars. They all work the same and last a long time...None of them contain any abrasive compounds. I use NuFinish on my rig every year or two. Very satisfied with it....Don
 

aatauses

Well-known member
We have used Nu-finish for about 5 years now including the decals---been very happy with italcurrently in Crystal River, FL
 

TxCowboy

Well-known member
I don't think Rejex is more difficult to apply and remove than any other product. Apply, wait 15/20 minutes and wipe or buff off. It can be used on decals and was originally made for use on aircraft. Nothing sticks better than a 200 mph bug and they just hose off with Rejex. LOL

For those with oxidation on front and rear caps (2011 models mostly). The problem is in the coating that was applied and short of removing and painting (which I did) it will not go away. As I understand it, this was not a Heartland issue alone.

I have a 2011 with the severe oxidation on the nose cap and called HL about it a while ago. Per their rep, HL considers this oxidation "acceptable degradation" (their words). Estimates to repair this issue (basically, cleaning and repainting the nose cap) are in excessive of $5,000 (from the old Greystone forum).

I've washed that nose cap using of number of cleaners, e.g., Simple Green, Spic and Span, etc., and it has done nothing. I might try the orbital buffer when the weather warms a bit.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I have a 2011 with the severe oxidation on the nose cap and called HL about it a while ago. Per their rep, HL considers this oxidation "acceptable degradation" (their words). Estimates to repair this issue (basically, cleaning and repainting the nose cap) are in excessive of $5,000 (from the old Greystone forum).

I've washed that nose cap using of number of cleaners, e.g., Simple Green, Spic and Span, etc., and it has done nothing. I might try the orbital buffer when the weather warms a bit.


You might shop around. I think some others have had caps painted for closer to $1000.
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
I have a 2011 with the severe oxidation on the nose cap and called HL about it a while ago. Per their rep, HL considers this oxidation "acceptable degradation" (their words). Estimates to repair this issue (basically, cleaning and repainting the nose cap) are in excessive of $5,000 (from the old Greystone forum).

I've washed that nose cap using of number of cleaners, e.g., Simple Green, Spic and Span, etc., and it has done nothing. I might try the orbital buffer when the weather warms a bit.
$5,000.00 is way out of line. I was quoted $800.00 to paint my rear cap by a shop close to the Amana Rally in IA when i was there last Fall. I'm dropping it off there in the Spring to get it done...Don
 

Just4play

Member
Buff Magic, best stuff on the market for oxidation. I used it on my boat that was very heavy oxidation and made it look new.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
I think my front repaint was about $1200. You can get the decals from Heartland. Since this problem is under the top layer of gel coat I think most have found that any type of oxidation removal system does not work.
 
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