Pull Test, Tug Test or No Test?

ILH

Well-known member
Not to put fear into anybody, but the time I dropped my trailer, I had done a complete visual check of the hitch. I was convinced it was properly hitched.
 

Bones

Well-known member
We have a setup language all our own. To the uninitiated, it would sound like total gibberish.

Wife: Did you attach the black thingie?
Translation: Did you connect the trailer power cable?

Wife: What about the other thingie?
Translation: Did you connect the break-away cable?

Wife: Did you do the jiggie-jiggie? (required arm movements)
Translation: Did you check the hitch's release arm to see if the jaws were locked?

Funny :)
 

porthole

Retired
Not to put fear into anybody, but the time I dropped my trailer, I had done a complete visual check of the hitch. I was convinced it was properly hitched.

Very easy to do with that hitch. Although it locks in very secure, it can also "look" like it is very secure when it is not.
You are not the first to drop a trailer with that particular hitch.
 

For20hunter

Pacific Region Directors-Retired
I have always done the Tug Test after hooking up, I raise my jacks about 1" and then set my brake controller to max and pull forward until the brakes stop the trailer. I have done this since I have began pulling fifth wheels nearly 15 years ago and have never had an incident where I was not properly hooked up. I would much rather continue doing this for the rest of my RV life without incident than to have needed to have done it and didn't and suffered the huge monetary consequences of dropping my trailer on my truck bed. Cheap insurance in my book.

Rod Ditrich
 

HornedToad

Well-known member
After following this thread I've switched from a pull test with the landing gear slightly raised and driving forward several feet...
To a tug test with the landing gear slightly raised, the chocks set, holding down the trailer brake and dropping the truck in drive so it just pulls against the hitch.

I like the tug test better!!!
 

ILH

Well-known member
After following this thread I've switched from a pull test with the landing gear slightly raised and driving forward several feet...
To a tug test with the landing gear slightly raised, the chocks set, holding down the trailer brake and dropping the truck in drive so it just pulls against the hitch.

I like the tug test better!!!

Well - the point is that you want sufficient PULL so that if the hitch isn't properly engaged that it will separate. The weight of the trailer alone, without something holding it back (brakes, wheel chalks, etc.) may not be enough.
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
I have an uncle that drove big rigs for all his life. We were discussing this issue and he sad he has seen guys pull a trailer over a hundred miles and have it come off the hitch. You must do everything you have to, to be sure that the coach is connected. Push, pull in both directions is a must.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I have an uncle that drove big rigs for all his life. We were discussing this issue and he sad he has seen guys pull a trailer over a hundred miles and have it come off the hitch. You must do everything you have to, to be sure that the coach is connected. Push, pull in both directions is a must.

This is why I like the "catcher" devices, either built in to the hitch, or add on (like the Butchs Services device). But still pull/tug test. My wheel chocks are plastic/steel rod, and screw tight between the axles. I have forgotten to remove them and found my truck can make them pop off. Maybe a wedge forward of the front tires would work better, except for the parking situations like I am in right now with the door side tires up on 4 leveling blocks.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Something else to think about. That is everytime you stop and leave the rig unattended be sure to check the hitch to be sure it was not tampered with. We pad lock ours. I have been told by several different RVers they experienced their hitch release had been pulled while they were away from their rig.
 

Bones

Well-known member
Something else to think about. That is everytime you stop and leave the rig unattended be sure to check the hitch to be sure it was not tampered with. We pad lock ours. I have been told by several different RVers they experienced their hitch release had been pulled while they were away from their rig.

Why would some one do that? and how could they tell?
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
Something else to think about. That is everytime you stop and leave the rig unattended be sure to check the hitch to be sure it was not tampered with. We pad lock ours. I have been told by several different RVers they experienced their hitch release had been pulled while they were away from their rig.

My TS3 requires 2 hands and if they are not using the extensions, have to climb up on our truck. I am hoping that is is a little deterrent for some on to unhook me. I do not leave my extensions out. They are tucked into an out of the way area.
 

Pizzaguy

Well-known member
My TS3 requires 2 hands and if they are not using the extensions, have to climb up on our truck. I am hoping that is is a little deterrent for some on to unhook me. I do not leave my extensions out. They are tucked into an out of the way area.
When I hook up I also place a padlock on the TS3 so there is no way the jaws can open. Just before taking off I do a full visual of hitch along with a complete walk around of everything.
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
When I hook up I also place a padlock on the TS3 so there is no way the jaws can open. Just before taking off I do a full visual of hitch along with a complete walk around of everything.

Ours does not have a place for a lock. Have any pics?
 

porthole

Retired
I'll put a padlock on our TS3 as well whenever we will be leaving the truck and trailer. And I'll also padlock it on an overnight stop where we stay hooked up. Even locked though I will still do a visual before we drive away.

BTW, on the subject of locks, At Home Depot (and I'm sure Lowes) you can get keyed alike locks. And if you look through the stack you can usually get several packs with the same key.

I was able to buy 3 sets of 4 stainless steel Master locks with the same key. 4 stay on the Cyclone, 3 stay with my Motorcycle trailer and the rest stay in the truck's toolbox for use wherever.
 

SeattleLion

Well-known member
We don't do the test. We have the B&W companion as well as the Blue Ox "catcher" that will catch the kingpin if the hitch isn't locked.
 
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