I have a residential refrigerator and had a few leaks in the ice maker line and decided to upgrade the line to a 20 foot section of stainless steel braided line in the slide. I pulled out the fridge and spliced the line to the old line fished the new line through the inside of the slide behind the cabinets. I had to remove the fireplace to feed the new line to the outside of the slide. Jim Beletti and I routed the new line the same route as the old line under the slide to where it enters the main frame. We removed the drain valve that was mounted on the side of the frame, because I did not need it as I blow out the line with air to winterize. We pulled down the a section of the coroplast to access the old line and cut it and spliced it with a ¼” compression coupling. Then we reattached the coroplast to the he other side of the frame.
After returning home from a rally I installed rubber ½” pipe insulation on the ice maker line under the slide. I used rubber pipe insulation instead of foam because rubber is more flexible than foam
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Since I winterize the ice maker line with compressed air, I upgraded the Ice maker valve under the sink so if I needed to winterize just the ice make line and not the rest of the trailer. I added a tee after the valve, one side of the tee has a connection to the ice maker line and other side of the tee has a water heater check valve and a quick connect for an air compressor line.
After returning home from a rally I installed rubber ½” pipe insulation on the ice maker line under the slide. I used rubber pipe insulation instead of foam because rubber is more flexible than foam
.
Since I winterize the ice maker line with compressed air, I upgraded the Ice maker valve under the sink so if I needed to winterize just the ice make line and not the rest of the trailer. I added a tee after the valve, one side of the tee has a connection to the ice maker line and other side of the tee has a water heater check valve and a quick connect for an air compressor line.
