New Ashland

busted2341

Well-known member
Well we finally did the PDI and took possession of the New LM 365 Ashland yesterday. Spent all day and finally got it home around 6 p.m. Everything as ordered except the TPMS was msiing the wheels sensors so hopefully Heartland is going to send someone to fix since we are full-timers we can't exactly leave it at the dealer for 30 days. I hope this ends well. The only problem thus far....This morning went to open the awning on the slide and Nope won't happen. I hear a click but it will not open. I can push it open a few inches and it rolls back up. No fuses or breakers blown. It doesn't appear bound up so any ideas anyone.
 

fredwrichardson

Past New Mexico Chapter Leader
Well we finally did the PDI and took possession of the New LM 365 Ashland yesterday. Spent all day and finally got it home around 6 p.m. Everything as ordered except the TPMS was msiing the wheels sensors so hopefully Heartland is going to send someone to fix since we are full-timers we can't exactly leave it at the dealer for 30 days. I hope this ends well. The only problem thus far....This morning went to open the awning on the slide and Nope won't happen. I hear a click but it will not open. I can push it open a few inches and it rolls back up. No fuses or breakers blown. It doesn't appear bound up so any ideas anyone.

Frank and Dawn,

We got our Ashland last December and are just getting to take it out for the first time next week. My recommendation is when you find issues and you will to communicate with Heartland customer service. The local dealer and repair shops are not always going to make you happy but if you get Heartland involved you will get everything fixed. We love the look, layout and all the features of our unit and we are glad we bought it. You just need to go through the "start up" issues that come with a new RV.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Frank and Dawn - congrats on bringing the Ashland home!

Sorry to hear about the awning. Sounds like a bad connection at the back of the awning switch. Take the switch off the wall to do a visual inspection. It's 12 VDC, not 110 VAC, so no shock hazard. If this sort of thing "isn't your thing", perhaps a friend who's comfortable looking at this, who might be way closer than your dealer, can take a look at it for you.

Never heard of the TMPS sensors being left off. I think I hear you saying you got the receiver and antenna in the box - is this correct? Is there a sheet in the box or your blue bag that shows tire pressures on it? If you have the receiver, my sense is that the plant put your tires/wheels on the wrong coach and you got the next set of Goodyear G114 tires/wheels without sensors.

Not an excuse of any kind, but note that our tire/wheel supplier, Tredit Tire and Wheel puts the sensors on at their shop before shipping the tires over to us with the box containing the receiver, antenna and sheet showing tire pressures.

Worst case, a system can be sent to you to be installed at any tire shop where your rig will fit in their parking lot. Use LevelUp to raise the coach just off the ground and the tire shop can remove the tires, break them off the rims, add the sensors to the wheel, remount and if you ask for it (potentially your cost), balance the wheels and reinstall on the coach.
 

busted2341

Well-known member
Thanx Jim. I checked the switch, all looks good. I wonder if the wire coming out the end might be chaffed and shorting at the bar on top. Ladder time...We have the sheet with tire pressures and all the boxed things. So when the dealer said the sensors where not there, they had them take a picture..to show no sensors...Your telling me sensors would not be visible correct? So I guess I'll hook up the monitor etc...and see what I get? I'm going to use your pics and start my TV project. Is there a schematic of how cables, HDMI run to all TV's. I want to put a modulater in to get sat on all TVs or at least outside with LR........
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Thanx Jim. I checked the switch, all looks good. I wonder if the wire coming out the end might be chaffed and shorting at the bar on top. Ladder time...We have the sheet with tire pressures and all the boxed things. So when the dealer said the sensors where not there, they had them take a picture..to show no sensors...Your telling me sensors would not be visible correct? So I guess I'll hook up the monitor etc...and see what I get? I'm going to use your pics and start my TV project. Is there a schematic of how cables, HDMI run to all TV's. I want to put a modulater in to get sat on all TVs or at least outside with LR........

Right - the Valor sensors we use are mounted to the rim, inside the wheel with a large screw strap. They are not valve stem sensors.
valor.jpg

Both HDMIs in the living room route from the TV to the back of two wall plates in the upper left entertainment cabinet. One wall plate has a single F81 on it in addition to a female HDMI jack and the other wall plate has 3 female RCA (phono) jacks on in addition to a female HDMI jack.

The supplied BluRay player uses a supplied HDMI jumper to connect it to one of the HDMI wall jacks to feed signal down to the TV. The other HDMI feed is for you to use as you see fit. Most will use it to connect their satellite receiver to the TV.

I have moved my BluRay player down to behind the TV and onto the second shelf where I can see the top-mounted controls. I just helped move one for a friend to the bottom-most shelf. If he blocks the BluRay player up about an inch, his remote control should be able to see the player.

On the wall plate that has the HDMI jack and an F81, the F81 is the dedicated satellite feed for that TV location. The other end of that feed terminates on the back of a wall plate in the UDC. Same goes for the bedroom TV - there's a dedicated satellite wire there too that terminates on the back of a wall plate in the UDC.

Back up in the upper-left entertainment cabinet, you'll also see a 2-way splitter. The input to this splitter is your Over-the-Air (OTA) antenna/Cable TV (CATV) feed. It comes from the back of the OTA wall-plate in the bedroom, the one that has the push button and the red light. One output of this 2-way splitter feeds your living room TV. The other output feeds your outdoor entertainment cabinet, whether you ordered the outdoor TV or not. Here again, this is coax from the OTA/CATV system - not satellite. That said, you could repurpose this line to backfeed at RF from a modulator.

If you want to backfeed from the living room entertainment cabinet to the bedroom via wire, you will either have to run another wire for this purpose, or repurpose as-needed, the OTA/CATV or satellite feed.

For my current coach, I purchased a wireless HDMI system. This allowed me to remove one of my DirecTV Genie clients from the outdoor TV and transmit to that TV from the bedroom Genie client. I will move this device from coach to coach and eventually, save money. But up front, it saves from running a dedicated satellite wire to the outdoor TV location and that has some value from a parts cost perspective as well as a install time perspective.

Have fun!
 

busted2341

Well-known member
Thanx for the reply...sorry to keep bothering you.....Keep a phone handy!!!..lol....I love techy stuff.......Also any other ideas on the awning...It worked just fine on pick up and the first 5 hours then nothing....Is there anything else that might control it that I have missed? It's not binding....
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Thanx for the reply...sorry to keep bothering you.....Keep a phone handy!!!..lol....I love techy stuff.......Also any other ideas on the awning...It worked just fine on pick up and the first 5 hours then nothing....Is there anything else that might control it that I have missed? It's not binding....

Sorry Frank - I got nothing more on the awning. Make a quick call to Heartland Monday morning at 877-262-8032 to see what other troubeshooting tips they may have.

Now, while the switch connections seemed to be well made, per your inspection, perhaps the switch it broken internally. You could consider unhooking the switch and make the connections manually with the wire connections to see if you can get it to roll out. Be nice it the fix was a switch replacement and not something in/at the awning.

I've never done this but I know Duane (porthole) and Terry (TerryH) have added second switches to their awnings and know how these curcuits work.

I "think" the switch is center-off, then when it's pressed one way, power is connected to the awning and when pressed the other way, the opposite polarity is connected to the awning.
 

busted2341

Well-known member
Gothcha...Thanx again....TV first since that is my first and foremost entertainment package....lol...Look forward to meeting every one here.....
 

porthole

Retired
Something to think about with the awning.
Do the lights dim when activating the switch?
any noise from the awning?
Some awnings have terminals up at the motor that allow you to jump the motor with a battery.
Some awnings do more then just reverse the polarity to go in and out. One feature is the terminals are jumped when the awning is retracted that acts like a brake to keep it from unraveling when on the road.
I'm using my phone now, so a bit tough to search. But, click the link "mods" in my signature below then do a thread search (under thread tools at the top) for awning switch. Don't remember how much is there, but I recall discussing the switch wiring.
 

Terry H

Past Texas North Chapter Leader/Moderator
Staff member
Take a look at this post on how to wire a second switch for the entertainment awning.

Reversing DC motors requires a specific type of switch, namely a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch wired in what is known as an 'H Bridge' configuration (pictured at right), so called because the current flow looks like the letter H when you look at a schematic diagram. The 4 upper and lower poles are cross-connected and the motor and power supply are attached as shown in the picture.


DC-motor-reversing-switch-schematic-wiring-diagram-285x275.jpg
 

busted2341

Well-known member
Thanx for all the advice to all......I'm not all that good as a handy man so I called heartland. Service Tech says the way I am describing the problem he believes the Motor is seized and needs to be replaced....That said My 100k 3 day old FW now has to go back to a dealer that tells me it's a week before they can look at it. Since we are full timing I can pay for a service call from a repair service but why should that be my problem....I guess some of the complaints I ignored are true....Other than that great coach....
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanx for all the advice to all......I'm not all that good as a handy man so I called heartland. Service Tech says the way I am describing the problem he believes the Motor is seized and needs to be replaced....That said My 100k 3 day old FW now has to go back to a dealer that tells me it's a week before they can look at it. Since we are full timing I can pay for a service call from a repair service but why should that be my problem....I guess some of the complaints I ignored are true....Other than that great coach....

busted2341,

The warranty does spell out that you take the unit back to the dealer for warranty service, but Heartland is pretty good about authorizing warranty service at independents or by mobile servicers as long as you get prior approval. If there's a travel time charge, that won't be covered, but probably isn't any more expensive than towing the rig back and forth to the dealer, and is a lot easier.
 

busted2341

Well-known member
Thanx...I was venting a bit.....Just very, very annoying that 3 days in and the strangest little thing happens.....I tried to make that argument with Heartland this morning but to no avail.....I guess Im pulling to dealer. Heartland tells me it's on ly a 1/2 hour job but for some reason I bet I send all day at the dealer and that's IF they can fix it.....The dealer didn't sound very enthusiastic when I told them I was coming in in Friday.....I sure hope they can fix quick.......
 

fredwrichardson

Past New Mexico Chapter Leader
busted2341,

The warranty does spell out that you take the unit back to the dealer for warranty service, but Heartland is pretty good about authorizing warranty service at independents or by mobile servicers as long as you get prior approval. If there's a travel time charge, that won't be covered, but probably isn't any more expensive than towing the rig back and forth to the dealer, and is a lot easier.

Dan is right. Our dealer is an hour and a half drive and we have to drive through Albuquerque (no fun) plus they do not have a great reputation on doing repairs. We found a local repair shop (twenty minute drive) that Heartland approved in a day and that is were I go to get our Ashland repaired. You need a good local Doctor, Dentist, Barber and RV repair shop. Also I had to go through all the start up issues that just about every RV owner goes through. Just take it one day at a time and all these issues will eventually get fixed.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
How long are you going to be where you are? Have HL send you the parts, then you can have anyone with HL's OK have install it....independant or dealer.
 

busted2341

Well-known member
Thanx for advising me and letting me blow off some steam. Contacted Heartland and had RV repair guy out to fix motor that seized on the awning...Looking forward to that repair and Heartlands understanding a little venting..No biggie. Back on track with a great coach....Since this is our 4th Heartland I kind of knew it would be taken care of..I was just annoyed.....Oh well back to travel times....
 
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