Landing gear gear lubrication

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
I removed the plastic cap on the curbside landing leg and poured some light oil down the inside. On the streetside leg, I drilled a 1/4" hole through the sidewall in the propane tank compartment, then drilled a smaller hole through there into the top side of the leg so I could get some oil in there using a straw on an oil bottle. My front jacks were running very slow and seem to labor to raise the trailer. First I thought it was a weak battery. I changed the battery and it was the same. After oiling everything up and letting it soak overnight, the difference was very noticeable. Well worth doing....Don
 

Bob Vaughn

Well-known member
I removed the plastic cap on the curbside landing leg and poured some light oil down the inside. On the streetside leg, I drilled a 1/4" hole through the sidewall in the propane tank compartment, then drilled a smaller hole through there into the top side of the leg so I could get some oil in there using a straw on an oil bottle. My front jacks were running very slow and seem to labor to raise the trailer. First I thought it was a weak battery. I changed the battery and it was the same. After oiling everything up and letting it soak overnight, the difference was very noticeable. Well worth doing....Don
Did you just make an educated guess as to where to drill the 1/4" hole? The shaft must be close to the tin of the propane tank.....I am thinking of making a larger hole in the tin. Just how far down from the top of the compartment??? Mine runs so slow it is hard to tell if it is running at all.....
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
I drilled through the tin first with a 1/4" bit. From there I used a smaller bit with a long shank to drill through the outer housing for the leg. I looked at at the curbside leg and took an educated guess as to how for down to drill. Maybe about an inch down from the top. Be sure your battery is good also...Don
On second thought, I bet you could pry the tin wall away then just remove the cap like you did on the other side. It looks like the only thing holding the wall is place is some caulking, maybe silicon..
 
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wdk450

Well-known member
There have been previous threads on this subject over the years. This might be worth a a forum search.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
Drill the hole about a foot from the top ( plus or minus ). Use grease not oil. The idea is to lube the jack screw. Get a grease needle from any hardware store. These will fit on any grease gun. This will put the grease right on the jack screw through the hole. Drill the hole with grease on the drill to prevent metal chips from falling inside. Raise the leg to clear the inner leg first.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I just re-read the original posting. Exactly said, the OP asked about lubing the GEAR BOX, not the acme lead screw. I don't believe I have ever heard of anyone lubricating the gear box.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
You do not need to lube the gear box. There are also some gears on the top of the leg but these are not the culprit. The jack screw turns on a large nut. This nut strips any lube off and eventually will wear the jack screw. This drag on the screw will increase the power needs.
 

Jim Posz

Well-known member
I don't know when this little feature was added, but on my 2014 Sundance there is a zerk type grease fitting on the back side of the legs about 2" from the top. I pumped in some grease and it did seem to help. Worth a try.Jim




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Rollin_Free

Well-known member
[h=2]Electric Landing Gear Lubrication Tool[/h]
You may want to check the post above. I started it yesterday after I greased the Jackscrews in my electric landing gear.
 

RandyDeb

Active Member
Good idea for a zerk if you can get the grease on the screw jack threads. You would have to put it just above the nut. A solid film lube may work also. The landing gear is exposed for the most part in the front storage compartment on my BH.
 

Rollin_Free

Well-known member
Electric Landing Gear Lubrication Tool
After reading several post on how to disassemble landing gear to lubricate I looked through YouTube for awhile and ran accross this video. The first 2-3 minutes is muted but it will start shortly after the initial name of presenter:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5PFpIQgfFA

Granted it's based on a SOB trailer but most electric landing gear are basically the same. As others have done I watched the video and purchased what I think is a better parts list to assemble the tool so you can lubricate the landing gear Jackscrew without removal of the entire landing gear assembly. The pictures are included in my earlier post "Electric Landing Gear Lubrication Tool" that show the tool and the final product.

The parts list:
1- 3' piece of 1" I/D flexible tubing (cut to 30")
1- 1" nylon bushing with 1/4" hole tap
1- 1" nylon bushing cap
1- 1/4 X 1/8 hex bushing brass
1- 11/16" - 1 1/2" hose clamp
1- grease zurt with 1/4" pipe threads

I realize this was originally a 2015 post however I posted a way to also help lubricate the jackscrew that was posted by someone else. My gear was struggling so I took advantage of the u-tube search found and then purchased the revised parts list from the original post that I have included. I think it has really streamlined the assembly and it works great. I have included the original title so you can actually see the adapter that I built. It is amazing how much better my gear functions. I can assure you if you build it your gonna be surprised how much better the gear will work. IMHO this is a very useful tool that isn't expensive.
 
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Occo

Member
I have a generator and it makes it impossible to get to the driver's side jack for maintenance. Why Heartland did not see this and make an accommodation to service the jack escapes me. Oh well, It is up to the owners to come up with ways to take care of their units or just give a dealer a bunch of money to do it:rolleyes:

I cut a hole in the propane compartment large enough to get my hand in to remove the cap off the end of the jack and lube the bushings and grease the bevel gears. Made a cover plate to install over the hole. WORKS GREAT HEARTLAND!!! Why can't your engineers see these kind of things??:confused::confused: If the jack has to be replaced the generator has to come out.. On You Tube a real skinny guy crawled over the generator house to do this. A REAL SKINNY AND FLEXIBLE GUY!!!
I could not find one in my toolbox.:rolleyes: The process of using a piece of pipe foam insulation long enough to cover the jack screws packed with grease works well to get them greased. I put it all the way into the jack and ran the motor. This turned the screws and got them well lubed. Worked slick, thanks to the guy that came up with the idea.
 

Occo

Member
I have a generator and it makes it impossible to get to the driver's side jack for maintenance. Why Heartland did not see this and make an accommodation to service the jack escapes me. Oh well, It is up to the owners to come up with ways to take care of their units or just give a dealer a bunch of money to do it:rolleyes:

I cut a hole in the propane compartment large enough to get my hand in to remove the cap off the end of the jack and lube the bushings and grease the bevel gears. Made a cover plate to install over the hole. WORKS GREAT HEARTLAND!!! Why can't your engineers see these kind of things??:confused::confused: If the jack has to be replaced the generator has to come out.. On You Tube a real skinny guy crawled over the generator house to do this. A REAL SKINNY AND FLEXIBLE GUY!!!
I could not find one in my toolbox.:rolleyes: The process of using a piece of pipe foam insulation long enough to cover the jack screws packed with grease works well to get them greased. I put it all the way into the jack and ran the motor. This turned the screws and got them well lubed. Worked slick, thanks to the guy that came up with the idea.


I am re-posting this because the jack screw on the driver's side failed, threads stripped. After studying the installation for a while and not wanting to pull the generator, I decided to cut an access hole in the generator housing compartment right where the upper jack clamp is. Made it big enough to get my hand with a wrench into. Then cut another access hole in the bottom of the compartment right next to the jack to reach the lower jack clamp with a wrench. I made the holes about 6 inches square. This was done easily with an angle grinder. With the coach raised in front with external jacks and jack stands I could get the jack screw out. It is so bad I am replacing it not rebuilding it. I also removed the curb side jack and completely dis-assembled it. Was able to clean and inspect all parts thoroughly. Lubed it well and reassembled it. I will re-install it when the new one arrives for the driver's side. I found this a fairly easy job to do and will do it on a regular routine. I plan to lube the jack screws every 6 months. Hopefully this will eliminate the 'landing gear' failure problem.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
I am re-posting this because the jack screw on the driver's side failed, threads stripped. After studying the installation for a while and not wanting to pull the generator, I decided to cut an access hole in the generator housing compartment right where the upper jack clamp is. Made it big enough to get my hand with a wrench into. Then cut another access hole in the bottom of the compartment right next to the jack to reach the lower jack clamp with a wrench. I made the holes about 6 inches square. This was done easily with an angle grinder. With the coach raised in front with external jacks and jack stands I could get the jack screw out. It is so bad I am replacing it not rebuilding it. I also removed the curb side jack and completely dis-assembled it. Was able to clean and inspect all parts thoroughly. Lubed it well and reassembled it. I will re-install it when the new one arrives for the driver's side. I found this a fairly easy job to do and will do it on a regular routine. I plan to lube the jack screws every 6 months. Hopefully this will eliminate the 'landing gear' failure problem.

I have not read this entire thread so I do not know all the details. If you have not done so, I strongly suggest that you run a separate motor for each jack. The better solution is to replace the Venture jacks with the Lippert Ground Control system. It has auto level and works with a remote. Yes, its $2500 bucks but you life will be much improved. A hydraulic system is better still but not sure it can be retro fitted.
 

Occo

Member
I have not read this entire thread so I do not know all the details. If you have not done so, I strongly suggest that you run a separate motor for each jack. The better solution is to replace the Venture jacks with the Lippert Ground Control system. It has auto level and works with a remote. Yes, its $2500 bucks but you life will be much improved. A hydraulic system is better still but not sure it can be retro fitted.

I hear you. If this fix does not hold up I think a second motor (about $250.00) would be the next move. The hydraulic change is out of my budget.
I also learned the manufacturers will not sell just the jack nut (911-10) so I could repair the landing gear. They want to sell the complete jack leg. Dollars in their pockets...
 
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