Underbelly water accumulation - 2016 Cyclone HD 4250 toy hauler

Tamraml

Member
Discovered water in the underbelly- took back to original dealer - ran all the tank, pipe-line and UDC connections - no leak found by tech; however whenever I pushed up on the underbelly, water flows. Also, the water smells like old fish.

What areas need to be checked, we have a list from the forums, black tank flush valve behind shower, back Side of UDC, gray water up to valve crack, valve on back of water heater, leak behind shower, city water line from UDC- weep holes; line to UDC for black tank sprayer was not tight, black water flush line and check valve, PEX compression ring, fresh water tank outlet, crack in coupler from black tank vent, fresh water vents, anti siphon valve from the black tank - are we missing anything?

Thank you for your input!

Tamra and Ruby Lynn
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Tamraml,

Were you towing in the rain? First time we towed through heavy rain, at a rest stop there was water gushing out of the underbelly. I thought the plumbing had ruptured. Turned out to be rainwater.

That said, some Cyclones have 2 fresh water tanks connected by a hose. There have been past posts about the connecting hose rubbing on frame cross-members and developing leaks.
 

Tamraml

Member
Hi, we live in Las Vegas, it's been dry and we have not traveled since we started full time living in our 2016 Cyclone 4250. So no rain. Dealership- techs X 2 cannot find the problem; there was a leak in the kitchen sink drain, which did lead to underbelly, that area was tested again, no leak. No leak what so ever. The tech stated still water from the original leak, hard for me to believe, since I "kicked -out" the water almost daily for the last 2 weeks and there still seems to be accummulation. Thus my outreach to members, have I thought of everything that could be the culprit. Thanks for your reply. Tamra and Ruby Lynn
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Check your shower for any leaks . . . not just the plumbing, but also the shower walls and the faucet.

And, check the water inlet on the toilet.

Ours was leaking a little bit every time we flushed . . . and a little water ran down the pipe and down into the basement.

Turned out all I had to do was finger tighten the water inlet on the back of the toilet and that stopped that drip.
 

rhodies1

Well-known member
Discovered water in the underbelly- took back to original dealer - ran all the tank, pipe-line and UDC connections - no leak found by tech; however whenever I pushed up on the underbelly, water flows. Also, the water smells like old fish.

What areas need to be checked, we have a list from the forums, black tank flush valve behind shower, back Side of UDC, gray water up to valve crack, valve on back of water heater, leak behind shower, city water line from UDC- weep holes; line to UDC for black tank sprayer was not tight, black water flush line and check valve, PEX compression ring, fresh water tank outlet, crack in coupler from black tank vent, fresh water vents, anti siphon valve from the black tank - are we missing anything?

Thank you for your input

Tamra and Ruby Lynn


Check and ensure your drain pipe is securely attached to the bottom of your shower drain. My cousins looked ok but leaked badly when in use, also ensure your outside shower is completely shut off when storing, the on/off lever does not always close and they can leak into the compartment, good luck
 

OEFVET

Well-known member
If the techs are saying it's water from a leak that has been fixed I would prove them right or wrong by first draining any water on the coraplast and underbelly. Make sure it's good and dry and if water keeps building up you probably have a leak. I'm thinking fresh water or grey water. Most likely grey water because of the smell you are describing. Good Luck!
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
One easy way to find out if it's a leak. Get a 1/4" drill bit and drill holes at the low spots in the coroplast. Just be very careful how deep you drill. Put a piece of rubber hose on the bit and only leave about a 1/4" of bit sticking out. If you still have water dripping out all the time....you have a leak somewhere.
 

Bones

Well-known member
I don't know if using a drill bit is the best idea because of stuff like this.

IMG_20150420_170006.jpg

IMG_20150420_170026.jpg
Here you see water lines and hydraulic lines
 

Aandaar

Well-known member
Because of this you can use the drill bit by hand. Don't use the electric drill. The underbelly is plastic and a few twists by hand and you are through it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chuck, Victoria, and Miss Callie
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Well a good look at your underside. While looking have someone run the water. Sinks, shower, etc. Run for eight minuets until your gray tanks have a lot of water in them. If still no leak, have someone pull one gray water handle at a time. It is ether leaking from the drains, a cracked tank, or the tank drain plumbing. You certainly have opened it up to observe what is going on.
 

Bones

Well-known member
Well a good look at your underside. While looking have someone run the water. Sinks, shower, etc. Run for eight minuets until your gray tanks have a lot of water in them. If still no leak, have someone pull one gray water handle at a time. It is ether leaking from the drains, a cracked tank, or the tank drain plumbing. You certainly have opened it up to observe what is going on.

Marc,
That is the inside look of mine. I had to cut away a whole section of the chloroplast due to a broken slide out kitchen line leaking all over the place. It was just easier to cut it away then trying to squeeze in there. So I took pictures of what I could for future reference.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Oops. Tamraml, Bones has the correct idea. For working on and replacing my dump valves, I too had to cut the coroplast. Go ahead and cut it neatly. Do not cut it out, but open a window from the outer edge with two cuts. Then fold it down. You can put it back together with Gorilla tape. It has held through raid and heat and it is removable with some hard pulling. You may want to add a couple of new self drilling/taping screws and fender washers as well at the edge. Any ACE hardware will have them and get the proper head to drive them. If you do not have a reversible drill, get one at ACE. I had to and it was a close out for $19.00. Keep it with the rig. Clean the coroplast with a window cleaner and the follow with an Isopropyl Alcohol (at least 90 to 95%) wipe. You can get 95% at Walmart. Then use a good bright flashlight. You should be able to find the source quickly this way.
https://heartlandowners.org/member.php/34109-Tamraml
 
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