Problem with Hydraulic System (LCI Electronic Leveling System & Slideouts)

GregBassine · Jul 15, 2016

Hello to all. As a relatively new BH owner (2014' 3260EL), it seems like I am asking for help more than I am helping someone else in need. I do hope to change that someday. Until then I need your help!

I have a problem with my hydraulic system. When I try to raise the legs once it has been auto-leveled, it goes for a little bit then stops. I hear a click in the control box (see photo 1). I have to wait for about 30 seconds, and it will work some more, then stop again, wait and then it goes again. I need to do this each time to get the legs back up. It appears to auto-level OK with no stops.

The same thing is happening with our slide-outs

I was told by a person on this board (can't remember who, sorry) that I needed to replace the fuse that runs to the hydraulic system, which I acquired through Amazon (see photo # 5). That's the good news I guess. In fact, I hope that's all I need to do, however I have a problem. I can't find the fuse to replace. Check out photos 3 and 4. It is such a maze that I can't trace which fuse goes where. Anyone have any educated guesses on which one to replace? To be frank, I am not too impressed with how they put the hydraulic system in.

I first filled the hydraulic fluid well to where it told me to fill it, so I know I have plenty of fluid in there.

Anything anyone can share would be appreciated. If there are any Pacific Northwest people out there who are going to the rally at Silverton, Oregon and would like to take a look at what's going on, , We'll be there.

Thanks in advance,

Char & Greg Bassine

jnbhobe · Jul 15, 2016

Follow the big red cable on your hydralic motor back to the breakers, the one it's connected to is the one you need to change.

danemayer · Jul 15, 2016

Hi Greg,

You're right there. The fuses are actually 12V DC mini-circuit breakers, under the red rubber boot. Two of them have thick wires on the right side. One of those goes to the Power Converter/12V fuse box in the coach. The other goes to the hydraulic pump. If you can see which wire goes to the pump, that's the breaker that needs to be replaced. It's a 12V DC 50 amp auto-reset breaker.

Another way to figure out which of the two breakers goes to the pump is to check for a teeny-tiny reset button, probably on the left side of the breakers. The breaker that goes to the Power Converter has the reset button. The one to the hydraulics pump does not have a reset button.

I've attached a couple of pictures to help. But the position of the breakers in my picture is not necessarily the same as yours.

GregBassine · Jul 15, 2016

Thanks! Does it sound like the breaker is the problem? Next question I guess would be; why did the breaker "break" to begin with? Your thoughts?

danemayer · Jul 15, 2016

The breaker can get weak, especially once it begins tripping. It can start tripping if there's low voltage from the battery, which can be due to dirty or loose connections, or an old battery, or a battery that's low on water. Binds in the hydraulic landing gear can also cause the breaker to start tripping, but that's less common.

jnbhobe · Jul 15, 2016

The other thing is that the pump will draw about 70 amps and more the colder it is out side.

GregBassine · Jul 15, 2016

Thanks! Sounds like I had better do some homework on my battery first. Just to be clear, there are only 2 big red wires going to the fuses (see my pics 3 & 4). The one with the reset button is NOT the one, the one without it is, yes? I really hate to sound like a dummy, but I know nothing about electrical systems, and am learning on the fly like this.

avvidclif · Jul 15, 2016

While you are there obviously the rig is sitting on the leveling jacks. And the picture show the fluid at the full mark. The fluid is to be filled to the line when ALL are retracted IE: hooked up.

Be careful retracting them because you could have an overflow and a mess. Mine is abt 1/2-2/3 full when leveled.

cookie · Jul 15, 2016

GregBassine said:
Thanks! Sounds like I had better do some homework on my battery first. Just to be clear, there are only 2 big red wires going to the fuses (see my pics 3 & 4). The one with the reset button is NOT the one, the one without it is, yes?

You are correct.

Peace
Dave

GregBassine · Jul 15, 2016

Re: Problem with Hydraulic System (LCI Electronic Leveling System & Slideouts)

Thanks Dave!

- - - Updated - - -

I raised all 4 of the leveling jacks (of course the 2 front ones are holding up the front of the RV), then filled the holding tank to 11 inch from the bottom of the plug. When I put the RV on the truck and raised those jacks.... yes I did have a mess and am still cleaning it up. One lesson learned (the hard way as usual)!

Jim.Allison · Jul 15, 2016

Here is a side bar on electrical issues. IMHO; so many items are grounded to the coach chassis by their own chassis. Often the paint is not removed so it is a badly grounded to begin with. At the very least an independent chassis ground should be run from the accessory to the nearest point on the chassis that is grounded and secured there by a bolt nut and fender washer. I prefer an independent copper ground wire to the chassis near the accessory, AND a ground from the accessory all the way back to the ground busbar at the battery. I prefer a green insulated wire of sufficient size for the installation so that I can identify it as my own install, of course white is ok, but I like insulated rather than bare mainly to prevent accidental short circuiting by careless loading etc. I'm not the originator of this idea, I read somewhere that bad grounds are responsible for a large percentage of electrical problems and poor performance of appliances and accessories. That same article stated that 12 v DC prefers a direct copper line back to the batt over the steel of a chassis.

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Jul 16, 2016

A bad ground can cause all kind of sometimes very odd issues that can baffle the mind. I have seen it over and over again, over the years.
For this issue I would start by redoing the factory ground. Heartland put 1 small self tapping screw with a star washer.
1st redo ground. Grind the paint off of the frame top and bottom and put a good bolt trough with star washer and nut. mount your ground wires to that then spray it with a battery post protective spray.
2nd replace the now weak breaker
3rd check and tighten (with a nut driver or small ratchet) all other connections at pump, breakers, and batteries.
4th check all crimp connections, look for and discolorations from heat, give them a good pull to see if there in there good and tight.
after you do all of that your power issue (popping circuit breaker) should be behind you.

This is Heartlands Ground connection.

My ground

here's my link
https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/54076-Project-LM-365?p=441123&viewfull=1#post441123

GregBassine · Jul 16, 2016

Thank you all for your help. I will be tackling the fuse today, and will update if (when) it works. Couple last questions before I start:

1. Should I cut the power to the fuse first?

2. If yes, if I move the battery bypass switch to the off position, will that do the trick?

I really appreciate you all and this group!

Greg

GregBassine said:
Hello to all. As a relatively new BH owner (2014' 3260EL), it seems like I am asking for help more than I am helping someone else in need. I do hope to change that someday. Until then I need your help!

I have a problem with my hydraulic system. When I try to raise the legs once it has been auto-leveled, it goes for a little bit then stops. I hear a click in the control box (see photo 1). I have to wait for about 30 seconds, and it will work some more, then stop again, wait and then it goes again. I need to do this each time to get the legs back up. It appears to auto-level OK with no stops.

The same thing is happening with our slide-outs

I was told by a person on this board (can't remember who, sorry) that I needed to replace the fuse that runs to the hydraulic system, which I acquired through Amazon (see photo # 5). That's the good news I guess. In fact, I hope that's all I need to do, however I have a problem. I can't find the fuse to replace. Check out photos 3 and 4. It is such a maze that I can't trace which fuse goes where. Anyone have any educated guesses on which one to replace? To be frank, I am not too impressed with how they put the hydraulic system in.

I first filled the hydraulic fluid well to where it told me to fill it, so I know I have plenty of fluid in there.

Anything anyone can share would be appreciated. If there are any Pacific Northwest people out there who are going to the rally at Silverton, Oregon and would like to take a look at what's going on, , We'll be there.

Thanks in advance,

Char & Greg Bassine

mlpeloquin · Jul 16, 2016

Turn off the 12V battery switch. That removes all the 12V power to the circuit breakers and unplug your rig. If you have any questions check it with a multimeter or disconnect the positive battery cable at the battery. The breaker in question is a self resetting breaker. It heats up, breaks the circuit, and then when it cools it resets itself. You can replace it with another 50A breaker or up it a little bit with a 60 amp. You can get them at the auto parts store. Do not work with a live circuit. The batteries can put out hundreds of amps. It is a quick fix.

GregBassine · Jul 16, 2016

RESULT: I was able to locate the breaker and changed it out (not too easy for a big guy in a relatively small place <sigh>). I cycled the system twice and all seems to be working as advertised. So.... a big thank you again to all who replied to this post.

In one of the replies, it was mentioned that one reason this problem was created was due to low water in the batteries. I took a couple of pics of the battery (see posted below). Are these no maintenance batteries, or is there a secret to getting the water cap off? Of course, any feedback here would be appreciated.

Thanks again to all,

Greg

GregBassine said:
Hello to all. As a relatively new BH owner (2014' 3260EL), it seems like I am asking for help more than I am helping someone else in need. I do hope to change that someday. Until then I need your help!

I have a problem with my hydraulic system. When I try to raise the legs once it has been auto-leveled, it goes for a little bit then stops. I hear a click in the control box (see photo 1). I have to wait for about 30 seconds, and it will work some more, then stop again, wait and then it goes again. I need to do this each time to get the legs back up. It appears to auto-level OK with no stops.

The same thing is happening with our slide-outs

I was told by a person on this board (can't remember who, sorry) that I needed to replace the fuse that runs to the hydraulic system, which I acquired through Amazon (see photo # 5). That's the good news I guess. In fact, I hope that's all I need to do, however I have a problem. I can't find the fuse to replace. Check out photos 3 and 4. It is such a maze that I can't trace which fuse goes where. Anyone have any educated guesses on which one to replace? To be frank, I am not too impressed with how they put the hydraulic system in.

I first filled the hydraulic fluid well to where it told me to fill it, so I know I have plenty of fluid in there.

Anything anyone can share would be appreciated. If there are any Pacific Northwest people out there who are going to the rally at Silverton, Oregon and would like to take a look at what's going on, , We'll be there.

Thanks in advance,

Char & Greg Bassine

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn · Jul 16, 2016

Re: Problem with Hydraulic System (LCI Electronic Leveling System & Slideouts)

Those are no maintenance batters.
You can clean off that little eye and look into it, if it's green your battery is good if it's yellow it's not.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

GregBassine · Jul 16, 2016

Re: Problem with Hydraulic System (LCI Electronic Leveling System & Slideouts)

Perfect, thanks!

Problem with Hydraulic System (LCI Electronic Leveling System & Slideouts)

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