Cyclone loading ramp failure

OEFVET

Well-known member
The suggestions are not practical for a ramp already built and having been originally installed incorrectly from the factory.

My thoughts exactly! BLUF - It's a poorly designed ramp and installing it incorrectly at the factory without the proper shimming just makes it inevitable to fail. It's not a matter of "IF" it's a matter of "WHEN" it will fail.

I have a 6x12 enclosed utility trailer that was built in 2000. It has a solid aluminum/wood ramp. I haven't done anything to it except lube the hinges and paint the deck! These toy hauler ramp designs need to be improved!
 

Bones

Well-known member
The suggestions are not practical for a ramp already built and having been originally installed incorrectly from the factory.

All of you with a ramp, take a look at the clearance between the bottom of the ramp and the trailer's framed opening. Mine has zero clearance. When the ramp was mounted, it was set in the frame with no shimming. That causes two problems, one there is insufficient gasket mating surfaces at the top, especially with a new ramp that is made 1/4 - 3/8" shorter and two, it allows water to sit on the frame and eventually cause rust.

The ramp is no different then a door on your sticks and bricks, place it in the opening, properly shim it, THEN secure the door to the frame.

Sorry to not be able to give you a viable solution. I am out of ideas now.
 

porthole

Retired
I have a 6x12 enclosed utility trailer that was built in 2000. It has a solid aluminum/wood ramp. I haven't done anything to it except lube the hinges and paint the deck! These toy hauler ramp designs need to be improved!

Similar, I have a 2005 all aluminum motorcycle trailer. The ramp deck is 1/2" exterior grade plywood. I Rhino lined the entire floor, ramp and up 18" of the sidewall. Looks the same as it did when I bought it 11-12 years ago
 

porthole

Retired
So, getting the weatherstrip ........

Heartland doesn't know what Lippert knows etc.

Me - I need weatherstrip, parts and decals
HL - I'll get back to you

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Me - Any updates?
HL Checking with supplier

Me - wouldn't be Lippert would it?

zzzzzzzzzzzzz

HL, why yes it would be.

zzzzzzzzzzz

Me - To Lippert, can I just buy the WS from Lippert and have it sent with the door?
Lippert - no, be happy we are sending you the door.

(Lippert then contacts someone else in Lippert then who contacts someone in HL, who then contacts me, but wants me to go through the first person.)
And apparently the "East coast parts" person and the "West Coast parts" person sit next to each other in Elkhart.

zzzzzzzzzzzzz

HL - the WS is part number ### and 1.84 per foot

Me, several days of back and forth with pictures of items needed ends in frustration.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

HL - Attached is a PDF file of all the graphics.

Me - call in with part numbers now for WS and decals.

HL - we'll pull the items and get back to you.

Me - please don't delay the WS for decal issues.

Later that day
HL - 2 emails, one for WS showing the order and a shipped status. 2nd email is for we don't carry the decals, you can try this vendor ........

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Me - decide to call HL
HL - oh, did somebody call you for credit card info?
Me - no, I just have an invoice showing the item shipped.

Apparently there is only one person in all of Heartland parts who can take the credit card information !!!!!

HL - The person who takes credit cards is off till Monday. Call back then and then we will ship it out.
Me - Really, I specifically asked that the WS not be delayed because I am leaving for a month + trip on Wednesday (or so I thought)

HL - can I place you on hold

Me - yes - and I start typing this out.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

HL - can I call you back?
 

RTSchacht

Rick & Terri
Hello Fellow Ramp Door Failure Partners,

My wife and I purchased a used 2009 Cyclone 3912 3 years ago. What a learning curve you have on how these things are made and what to look out for. Landing gear, failed and replaced, slide floors, rotted, failed and replaced, Sink faucet, two failed and replaced, quick connect hose fittings in garage, failed and replaced, outlets pulling out of the wall, ... and now, the ramp door.. failing, and needs replacing to the tune of $684.00, not including the 818.00 crate/freight charge if I don't pick up myself

Heartland/Lippert seem to be..."totally surprised, stunned".. that the door has failed on me. "How could that happen on such a nice RV?" After sending in pictures, VIN information, etc., which by the way, are identical to every other failure, story I've read on this, and other forums, ....I received the, "Sorry, our quality door is garbage, always has been, but lucky for you, we haven't changed anything, so the new one you have to buy shortly after the lengthy warranty period, will fail just like the old one did, but we're really happy to sell you another when this one fails..." letter.

It's been happening for years and they keep selling them. Who are the bigger idiots here, consumers for continuing to buy them knowing they're designed poorly or other consumers who replace them knowing that the first one failed and thinking that it won't happen again? I looked at the MORRyde ramps but they've told me their doors won't fit my Cyclone.

I do like the idea of rhino lining/sealing the bottom from water blowing up when you drive or have moisture there, 3/16 diamond plate the bottom, both sides, to give you better strength and disperse the pressure points out to keep from digging at the corners of the hinges. Plan on doing that when I get the new, "and improved" (sure, right... ) door. I'm hoping that I can get a quality fix for my door so I can sell this money pit as soon as possible.

Incredibly disappointed in this Toy Hauler.... perhaps the luck of the draw or perhaps other venders are the same...

Consider it experience and moving on with a different vender, good luck everyone else with their doors.

Rick
 

porthole

Retired
Unbelievable.

So, no call back from HL so I call back, 2:30 pm

Me - someone was supposed to call me back about my part
HL - No one here has that message
Me - I need my part, I'm leaving for a month trip next week and I have been trying to get this part for almost 3 weeks.

HL - well you didn't request expedited shipping
Me - Well no one called me back about any shipping or the credit card payment
HL - well no one is here now for that
Me - So you are telling me there is only one person in all of heartland parts to take credit card info
HL - yes

ME - unbelievable - can you just get the part shipped out today so it can be in transit over the weekend and I will take care of the credit payment Monday?
HL - no the shipping department went home for the day.

Me - there has to be a manager in parts, who is it and can you transfer me
HL - His name is Matt, hold on ........... voicemail
 

porthole

Retired
or perhaps other venders are the same...

The vendors are there same for almost all of the manufacturers. There are two main mass producers of ramp doors, Lippert and Challenger I think is the other.
MOR/ryde has limited market reach the best I can tell.
 

KenandKK

Well-known member
(Also found this on Lipperts website. Interesting info.)


Yes... the part I found interesting is the WARNING'S
about being "Water RESISTANT", and keep 'closed' when it rains. It's a EXTERIOR door/patio!!!

:(:confused::mad:
 
FYI,I have a new 2017 Cyclone 3800,after having a 2013 road warrior.The new deck on the 17 has a mor ryde deck railing system and is considerably lighter than the old deck.it is sealed around the entire perimeter of the deck surface and has some vent holes around the outside edge,I presume to allow moisture to escape.Time will tell if this door is any better but it sure makes closing easier although i have noticed it flexes a bit more when people are on the deck.Hopefully this fixes these previous issues,like the new G rated tires did compared to the crap that was on my previous rig.Build quality is much much better so it does seem like heartland does learn from these previous issues and improvements are made every year.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
I also have had the ramp/patio delaminate on the inside or top surface when down. After much talking with Heartland (zero help, out of warranty) Sorry Charlie. I contacted Lippert. Initially they said the same, Out of Warranty. We finally agreed there should be no way this could happen if the ramp was built correctly and they will replace the ramp. I have to pay shipping (OUCH). The ramp is on order.

Now when looking at mine and trying to figure out what happened (so I don't repeat) I noticed that the hinges were sealed around each of them BUT there is no signs of the bolt themselves being sealed in any fashion. The new one will have all bolt holes sealed. From looking at some pictures of damaged ramps several pointed out rust and corrosion around the bolts and that was probably the cause.

My 2 cents, caulk the bolt heads as well as maintain the caulking on both sides of the ramp.
 

TX_Clay

Well-known member
Suggestion for the bolt holes, I used to work for a marine repair place and when ever we would mount an outboard motor to the transom of a boat. We would shoot silicon sealant into the hole and while one person pushed the bolt in from one side. Another person would be on the other side with his fingers over the hole. This would push the sealant up and around the bolt as well as into any voids in the wood inside the hole. Never had water intrusion through those holes.
 

jam20ster

Well-known member
I have had my cyclone 4200 for 15 months and I am already on my 3rd side patio door. Lippert needs to go back to the drawing board and figure out how to seal them properly.
 

CarterKraft

Well-known member
Any pix of the top rail added to get a seal surface up there. I can see daylight through the top of my door. It might just need to be raised up though on the hinges.

Fabbing a rail is easy too though if needed I just want to see what you have used.
 

porthole

Retired
Any pix of the top rail added to get a seal surface up there. I can see daylight through the top of my door. It might just need to be raised up though on the hinges.

Fabbing a rail is easy too though if needed I just want to see what you have used.


Ihavethe

I have pictures I took when I replaced the ramp, I'll try and post them tonight.

- - - Updated - - -

The quick answer though; I used an 8' long piece of 3/4" or 1" aluminum angle, I'll have to double check the size, and an 8' long piece of 3M double sided tape (the stronger of the 3 varieties at Home Depot).
The angle had to have 1/8" ripped off one side to clear the door. Something I found out after sticking the first piece on the frame.
I have about 5 self tapping screws added to just make sure the angle stayed put.

Just re-drilling the hinges sounds like a simple answer, but it is a little bit more involved then just drilling and screwing new self tappers in.
 

CarterKraft

Well-known member
Ihavethe

I have pictures I took when I replaced the ramp, I'll try and post them tonight.

- - - Updated - - -

The quick answer though; I used an 8' long piece of 3/4" or 1" aluminum angle, I'll have to double check the size, and an 8' long piece of 3M double sided tape (the stronger of the 3 varieties at Home Depot).
The angle had to have 1/8" ripped off one side to clear the door. Something I found out after sticking the first piece on the frame.
I have about 5 self tapping screws added to just make sure the angle stayed put.

Just re-drilling the hinges sounds like a simple answer, but it is a little bit more involved then just drilling and screwing new self tappers in.
That sounds like what I was envisioning. I don't really understand how my stock door is not sealing correctly but so it goes with a cardboard house on wheels.

Sent from my KFFOWI using Tapatalk
 

porthole

Retired
That sounds like what I was envisioning. I don't really understand how my stock door is not sealing correctly but so it goes with a cardboard house on wheels.


Myguess,basedonmytrialer?

My guess based on my trailer? It was installed wrong at the plant. Per Lippert, the ramp is supposed to be set on spacer when set into the garage door frame. Same as you would on your sticks and bricks home.

A 3/8" spacer at the bottom, then center the door in the frame, then drill the holes.
My ramp was set right on the frame (bottom) which explains why I can't keep paint there and it is always rusting. Plus my new ramp was 3/8" smaller height and width, so my problem was compounded.
 
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