The voltage in my coach fluctuates. This is with or with out my power master. Sometimes it is the front half of the coach including the GFI, sometimes it is the back half. The voltage at the pedastal reads 115-116 volts. The power cord reads the same. It is a 30 amp pedastal and I have a 50 amp coach. It happens when nothing is on or when there are things on. It can happen any time of day or night. Any suggestions?
Voltage
- Thread starter JoPa
- Start date
katkens
Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
The Vin # contains info about that particular model ,when it was made, etc. and enables them to find what brand of stuff that was used at that time in production. There is a Sticky-Decoding your Heartland Vin # listed in the General Forum that gives an explanation what the numbers mean or info they contain.....Kenny
One things to check is the breaker box. Power off the 5th wheel, disconnect the battery, and open the breaker box. Pull the inside cover and make sure all wires are tight. Loose wires could cause voltage fluctuation.
If you dont like working with electricity, take it to your dealer or have an electrician look at this.
Bill
If you dont like working with electricity, take it to your dealer or have an electrician look at this.
Bill
htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
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htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
Electricity 101
When connecting a 50A rig to a 30A pedestal, you only have 1 hot phase, instead of 2, from the pedestal feeding into the 2 hot phase conductors in the rig. All the AC voltage used in the rig, even when connected to a 50A pedestal, utilizes only 120V load.
By the time electric power reaches the end-users, (US), some utility companies are only supplying, say...110V, due to many possibile factors: end of the line distance from the sub-station, transformer size inadequate due to load increase since initial installation years ago, property owner and electrical installers sizing service too small, etc...
Most electrical devices these days are rated for 115VAC. This rating takes into account the fact that voltage from a utility will flucuate - some utility companies more so than others. Legally, (according to the NEC), on a service installation, the voltage shouldn't drop more than 5% total between the MAIN service and the farthest outlet for any load, with 3% max on any individual branch circuit and 3% max on the feeders from the service to another panel in between. (Utility companies are regulated differently, I don't know what their range of 'acceptable' voltage is!)
Let's assume there is another breaker box somewhere between the MAIN service and the pedestal. If the MAIN is 120V, the pedestal should be NO LOWER than 114V. MAIN at 115V, pedestal NO LOWER than 109.25V.
So...IF the voltage at the pedestal is as low as 109.25V, your 115V rated equipment should still operate normally. Sometimes, the voltage is only 109V or 110V at the MAIN "120V" service, anyway. We also know that many times the voltage is actually 120 or more.
All that being said, without any load on at your RV, does not necessarily mean there is no load on the system, causing a fluctuation in voltage at your pedestal. Nor does it mean the utility company voltage isn't just wigging out (technical term)!
If you are getting the same voltage reading at the pedestal that you are getting inside on your receptacles...chances are real good that it is nothing in your RV causing this. Especially when you have nothing turned on. You could see if they will let you check the voltage at the MAIN and also check around at other pedestals and see what their "120V" voltages are. It may be the utility or different loads in the RV park...either way, at 115-116V, you're good to go!
When connecting a 50A rig to a 30A pedestal, you only have 1 hot phase, instead of 2, from the pedestal feeding into the 2 hot phase conductors in the rig. All the AC voltage used in the rig, even when connected to a 50A pedestal, utilizes only 120V load.
By the time electric power reaches the end-users, (US), some utility companies are only supplying, say...110V, due to many possibile factors: end of the line distance from the sub-station, transformer size inadequate due to load increase since initial installation years ago, property owner and electrical installers sizing service too small, etc...
Most electrical devices these days are rated for 115VAC. This rating takes into account the fact that voltage from a utility will flucuate - some utility companies more so than others. Legally, (according to the NEC), on a service installation, the voltage shouldn't drop more than 5% total between the MAIN service and the farthest outlet for any load, with 3% max on any individual branch circuit and 3% max on the feeders from the service to another panel in between. (Utility companies are regulated differently, I don't know what their range of 'acceptable' voltage is!)
Let's assume there is another breaker box somewhere between the MAIN service and the pedestal. If the MAIN is 120V, the pedestal should be NO LOWER than 114V. MAIN at 115V, pedestal NO LOWER than 109.25V.
So...IF the voltage at the pedestal is as low as 109.25V, your 115V rated equipment should still operate normally. Sometimes, the voltage is only 109V or 110V at the MAIN "120V" service, anyway. We also know that many times the voltage is actually 120 or more.
All that being said, without any load on at your RV, does not necessarily mean there is no load on the system, causing a fluctuation in voltage at your pedestal. Nor does it mean the utility company voltage isn't just wigging out (technical term)!
If you are getting the same voltage reading at the pedestal that you are getting inside on your receptacles...chances are real good that it is nothing in your RV causing this. Especially when you have nothing turned on. You could see if they will let you check the voltage at the MAIN and also check around at other pedestals and see what their "120V" voltages are. It may be the utility or different loads in the RV park...either way, at 115-116V, you're good to go!
Forrest Fetherolf
Senior Member
jg,
I installed a 120v and 12v meter to continually monitor shore power voltage, battery voltage with and without a charge from converter or TV alternator. The meters cost about $22.00 ea.
Forrest
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Shadowchek
Well-known member
What did you need the 12v one for? You have the lights on your monitor panel. What else could you possibly need. Just kidding that was a good mod.
Greg
Greg
Forrest Fetherolf
Senior Member
Purchased meters locally from L C Electronics in Northridge, CA.
Mounted meters above respective breaker panels, removed screws to tip out 120v and 12v breaker panels to access wiring.
120v ac meter - connected one lead to any 120v black wire, connected other lead to any 120v neutral white wire.
12v dc meter - connect positive lead to any 12v positive wire, connect negative lead to any 12v ground wire.
Use 16-18 gauge stranded wire or ?????
Forrest
