Pins not screws on on underbelly?

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Limacharlie48

Member
Decided I wanted to drop the belly coroplast to check for build issues, maybe add some tank bracing / insulation, etc. What I discovered is that my coroplast is attached to the outer frame rails with pins, not screws. My first clue was the black plastic centering collar, used to center a fastner in a powder actuated tool - not catching on I then found a 1/4 inch was too loose and a 6mm wouldn't fit. Finally broke one off, and sure enough no threads, this is an anchor with an affixed washer used in both steel and concrete.......

Anyone else run into this? Guess cut and reseal is my only option.

This is on a Wilderness 2450, mods I posted here for better exposure, nothing but crickets in the wilderness section.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated!!

Bill
 
wdk450

wdk450

Well-known member
Limacharlie48 said:
Decided I wanted to drop the belly coroplast to check for build issues, maybe add some tank bracing / insulation, etc. What I discovered is that my coroplast is attached to the outer frame rails with pins, not screws. My first clue was the black plastic centering collar, used to center a fastner in a powder actuated tool - not catching on I then found a 1/4 inch was too loose and a 6mm wouldn't fit. Finally broke one off, and sure enough no threads, this is an anchor with an affixed washer used in both steel and concrete.......

Anyone else run into this? Guess cut and reseal is my only option.

This is on a Wilderness 2450, mods I posted here for better exposure, nothing but crickets in the wilderness section.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated!!

Bill
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I would think that this new development is cause for a phone call to Heartland Service (have your VIN available as it is their standard procedure to note it before talking to you about any problem). Let the rest of us know what is their recommended procedure for doing repairs above the coroplast.
 
danemayer

danemayer

Well-known member
If you're not using an impact wrench, it's easy to tear the heads off the screws, which could make them seem like pins.
 
L

Limacharlie48

Member
Good idea on customer service, I will post what they tell me. Dane I did indeed use a 1/4 inch impact, broke two of them and pulled the coroplast down enough to get a visual on the remnants - sharp nail point, light spiral serrations, coupled with the centering collar with captive washer and you have something like this with a he head measuring approx 6.5mm:
images.png
Still hoping it is some esoteric new high speed/low drag fastner..?
 
L

Limacharlie48

Member
Okay - as promised I spoke with customer service today. They stated that they were made aware of this practice a couple weeks back when a dealer called in with the same issue / question. Apparently they are using this method on more than one assembly line. I did ask if they had a suggested method of removal, they have been suggesting drilling them out.

The first image shows a fastener in place, note the finned plastic collar used to center the pin in the tool barrel.

The second image shows the fasteners removed'

Third image shows the air chisel and bits I used. If I pried while chiseling the pins would back on out completely, I will of course replace with SS self tapping screws.
 

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  • Fastener in place showing plastic centering collar.jpg
    Fastener in place showing plastic centering collar.jpg
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  • Removed fasteners.jpg
    Removed fasteners.jpg
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  • Air chisel and bits.jpg
    Air chisel and bits.jpg
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Bones

Bones

Well-known member
Limacharlie48 said:
Okay - as promised I spoke with customer service today. They stated that they were made aware of this practice a couple weeks back when a dealer called in with the same issue / question. Apparently they are using this method on more than one assembly line. I did ask if they had a suggested method of removal, they have been suggesting drilling them out.

The first image shows a fastener in place, note the finned plastic collar used to center the pin in the tool barrel.

The second image shows the fasteners removed'

Third image shows the air chisel and bits I used. If I pried while chiseling the pins would back on out completely, I will of course replace with SS self tapping screws.
Click to expand...
You can't drill them out you have to cut them off or do as you did chisel them off. They may be using these instead of screws because you can shoot them into the frame a lot quicker than self tappers and might be less prone to snapping off. It is just like the concrete nail guns that use a small charge to drive the nail quickly into the concrete.
 
Bogie

Bogie

Well-known member
You can bet they are doing this because it's cheaper overall. Only problem is, it tends to assume the coroplast will not have to be removed. Not a good assumption. :p
 
L

Limacharlie48

Member
True enough, it is about units per hour on those assembly lines. I will say that the CS rep was not exactly happy about the change, reflected your sentiments regarding needing belly access. Not the first time I have seen design or manufacturing engineers not consider future maintenance and repairs........:confused:
 
D

donr827

Well-known member
Not a good way to attach the coroplast for the average RV owner in my opinion. Probably does not have all of the tools necessary to do the job. Like mentioned above a lot of engineers do not take into account service .
Don
 
T

TedS

Well-known member
The same fasteners are used in the Open Range/Highland Ridge trailers. Owners are chiseling off the heads, punching out the remains and replacing with screws. Same opinions, poor choice fastener for future maintenance work.
 
L

Limacharlie48

Member
Would highly recommend to replace these before getting too far from the home shop - or you will be forced into slashing and taping to get at any issue in the belly, average set of hand tools ain't g9nna cut it. Add it to your winterize or de-winterize task list:cool:
 
wdk450

wdk450

Well-known member
I think that this change in fabrication hardware/procedures has added materials expense and labor time/expense to EVERY new owner. As others have suggested, you want to get these pins completely changed out for stainless steel screws and washers BEFORE you need underbelly access on the road. I hope this issue makes it to the movers and shakers at Heartland, and they come up with a more removable solution for fastening the Coroplast.
 
porthole

porthole

Retired
wdk450 said:
I think that this change in fabrication hardware/procedures has added materials expense and labor time/expense to EVERY new owner. As others have suggested, you want to get these pins completely changed out for stainless steel screws and washers BEFORE you need underbelly access on the road. I hope this issue makes it to the movers and shakers at Heartland, and they come up with a more removable solution for fastening the Coroplast.
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Good grief and a double face palm :eek:
 
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