Trailer movement

I have noticed that when we are set up the trailer has some movement while walking around and increases when someone is up stairs in the bedroom/bathroom area. Is there a product that will decrease the movement of the trailer once it is setup?

Thanks, Butch

I built these to prevent sway. There are others on-line to buy such as JT Stabliizers.

Forrest

Butch,

Wheel Chocks:
Make sure you have a good pair of wheel chocks. I use Roto-Choks. Bal makes nice ones too.

Pads under stabilizer feet:
Always make sure to put at least a lego pad if not a board down under each foot of the rear stabilizers to spread the load out over soft ground. On the front stabilizers, due to the weight involved, I'd use wood under the feet.

King Pin Stabilizer:
I've used a tripod in the past. Some use bi-pods. Some use nothing. I have a Trailair pinbox and always questioned if a king pin stabilizer did any good with a Trailair. I have not lugged that thing around for the last 2 seasons. Don't miss it either. Some do get benefit from them. Especially with a non-Trailair pinbox.

Locking Arm Stabilizers:
These seem to hold the most hope at stabilizing the rig. I have the JT RV brand on my unit. Forrest made his own and save a lot of $$. Bal markets theirs and there are other brands.

Jim

we use these,almost stops all movement when inside

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=11109&src=SRQB

HEY BUTCH
I just got finished with mine today. We used 3/4 round stock - u bolts and turn buckles forming an X on the front. On the back kind of did the same but on my 3200 BHS they are crossed but slightly off set do to the location of the jacks. WOW what a difference all of the rocking is gone

Forrest, is that thin wall conduit? Would you mind posting a close up of the method you devised to clamp the sliding part? Thanks.

OMG, where we are parked right now, I would SWEAR that Jim is doing jumping-jacks! This never happened in Wisconsin. We are moving next week to what I hope will be "firmer" ground! I'm going to show Jim this thread, so he may get some ideas in case we are wobbling, then!

Ray LeTourneau said:

Forrest, is that thin wall conduit? Would you mind posting a close up of the method you devised to clamp the sliding part? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Ray,

.058 aluminum 3/4" tubing telescoping into 7/8" tubing.
1" dia vinyl hose w/thumbscrew speed clamp on 3/4" tubing.
Wire securing hose to 7/8" tubing can be substitute with additional speed clamp.

Forrest

Forrest, Great idea and nice work! Sure beats $300 bucks.

Ray LeTourneau said:

Forrest, Great idea and nice work! Sure beats $300 bucks.

Click to expand...

Cost about $40.

Aluminum .058 tubing, 6'-3/4" & 7'-7/8" tubing from Industrial Steel...$6.00
Brackets from Hooks & Lattice...$26.00
1" dia. vinyl hose sleeve from Ace Hardware...$.05
#12 x 3/4" Self taping screws & 5/16 bolts w/nuts...$3.00
Thumbscrew speed clamps for Checker Auto Parts...$4.30
Flattened tubing ends in vise and drilled 5/16 hole for bolts.
Simple aluminum "L" brackets cut 2" long from 2"x 2" "L" stock could be substituted for Hooks and Lattice brackets....save another $23.00
I also installed Bal 7000 lb scissor jacks behind rear axle to take weight and bounce from suspension and tires. The jacks will level RV side to side over two inches without using blocks under tires.
These set up really works................no need for rotochucks, hitch-pin tripod or blocks.....less weight to carry and less things to remove and store.

Forrest