Puzzled's 2017 T32

Cutting the header panel down to fit the contour of the ceiling.



- - - Updated - - -

Cross bar and header installed.



- - - Updated - - -





- - - Updated - - -

The panel I added to cover the gap from the gate to the camper is able to stay.







- - - Updated - - -

I need to make a filler panel for above the header.





Made the filler panel.

opps again, looks like I was posting as you were still uploading pics.....

Made a piece to attach the header to the legs as well as cover the gap from the cross bar.

I moved the two jack beds forward as much as they would allow. The top bed was simple, the bottom one not quite as easy. I took a piece of steel and cut a couple of 4" strips. The wood frame in the seats don't extend far enough for the bracket to be secured. With the 4" piece this make up the difference. I'm on the fence as to if the metal I used is thick enough or not. If it isn't I'll make another set. After securing the seats I noticed there is a gap between them. I never paid attention to this before and I know my bolt holes are in line with the factory holes. I may unbolt the seat and move them together to close that gap.





Pic to follow

Worked on the patio railing kit today.



Two of the brackets utilized the door hinge bolts.



Only two bolts went through the fiberglass door. The rest went through the aluminum framing.



This bracket mounted with wood type screws. If it doesn't hold I'll use nuts and bolts.





This is the gap from the railing to the camper body.



The railing has a material flap that uses a hook type system like bed covers use. I need to come up with a piece to mount to the camper side.



When the ramp door is closed everything is close however it all fits.





This is the clearance at the bottom.



- - - Updated - - -

Made up some cables for the door. I'll still use my jacks to support the door.

Excellent work! I might order the door kit as well... looks like a pretty straight forward mod.
Noticed in your last picture, have you ever heard of the phrase, " never saddle a dead horse? "
turn your Crosbies around, the saddle should be on the live end of the wire rope...

Crosby clips

Mike, I added patio stays years ago, something to watch for - the eyebolts at the top. As close as I made mine they still just touched the door keeping it from sealing completely at the top. Took a little extra work for the clearance.

Your cables, what size are they? I have crimpers for up to 1/4" sleeves if you want to go that route.
I ended up using small chain. Was easier to store and make my final length adjustments.

Although I never got the notoriety, fame and fortune for it I will take credit for giving the manufacturers the idea for a patio.
All of the different manufacturers patio setups came out after I posted about adding chains and making the rear deck

4 eye bolts, two lengths of chain and I have a rear patio

- - - Updated - - -

And - just so you know, there is zero structural support inside the ramp - door.

I need to get around to posting my ramp necropsy pictures

Until then, the ramp is:

• 1/16" outer fiberglass panel
• 1/8" luan plywood oriented horizontally
• 1/32" 6" wide strip of aluminum over the seam (2 4x8 sheets of 1/8" luan)
• 2" of styrofoam
• 1/8" luan plywood oriented vertically

All of the above vacuum laminated

• Line-ex type interior coating

"Picture frame" extruded aluminum outer banding

• Extruding has some type of adhesive from the inner channels to the center of the door lamination - essentially glued to the styrofoam.
• 90 degree extruded aluminum (cleats for lack of the proper term) press fit and epoxied into each of the four corners (eight connections)

If water gets through to the luan - IT will rot and you WILL lose any structural integrity you had.

My SEEG almost went through the ramp in Virginia last year.

Cyclone ramp failure

porthole said:

Crosby clips

Mike, I added patio stays years ago, something to watch for - the eyebolts at the top. As close as I made mine they still just touched the door keeping it from sealing completely at the top. Took a little extra work for the clearance.

Click to expand...

I will check that here shortly.

Your cables, what size are they? I have crimpers for up to 1/4" sleeves if you want to go that route.
I ended up using small chain. Was easier to store and make my final length adjustments.

Click to expand...

1/4" cable with a coating making the OD 3/8". I may take you up on the crimpers for a cleaner look.

Although I never got the notoriety, fame and fortune for it I will take credit for giving the manufacturers the idea for a patio.
All of the different manufacturers patio setups came out after I posted about adding chains and making the rear deck

4 eye bolts, two lengths of chain and I have a rear patio

Click to expand...

Nice Install. I like the door assist spring/shock.

- - - Updated - - -

And - just so you know, there is zero structural support inside the ramp - door.

Click to expand...

I am aware of that. Once it goes to crap I'll replace it with an actual ramp door made for the patio. For me I already have another camper in mind so I'm not sure how long I will have this one.

Cyclone ramp failure

Click to expand...

Was that just from loading and unloading or something else?

- - - Updated - - -

schew said:

Excellent work! I might order the door kit as well... looks like a pretty straight forward mod.
Noticed in your last picture, have you ever heard of the phrase, " never saddle a dead horse? "
turn your Crosbies around, the saddle should be on the live end of the wire rope...

Click to expand...

I have them that was so they "hide" behind the screen when set up. Strictly a vanity thing.....

Once again, great work. I can fabricate as well and your project definitely peaked my interest in doing the same mod. My ramp is a deck ramp, it's a Challenger 5010 ramp door with a weight capacity of 2500 lbs.
I cant find the specs but it's my understanding that the patio ramps are stronger than regular ramp doors, so just be sure you don't have too much weight on it at any given time.

One other note about the Crosby's. I understand that you want to hide the saddles but the if installed backwards they very well could slip but probably will not fail completely. I would turn them around as even if they only slip a little, you don't want want one side of the ramp lower than the other. You want to avoid the torque it would place on your door as well as the hinge and door frame.
Lastly, strip the plastic sheath on the cables where the Crosby's are used. It is neccesary to have wire to wire contact for them to bind correctly. If you keep the plastic on, it will slip.

Like the other poster, I have access to crimping wire cable with thimbles and sleaves, and will gladly make you up some 3/16" cables ( factory size btw), just pay for the shipping. If you do go that route, add a carabiner on the low side so you can connect/disconnect quickly..

Puzzled_1 said:

Nice Install. I like the door assist spring/shock.

Click to expand...

Not a spring assist.

It is an electric screw jack ram. Was a factory option when we ordered the trailer. Haven't seen another one out there.

Cyclone ramp door electric assist ram

- - - Updated - - -

Puzzled_1 said:

Was that just from loading and unloading or something else?

- - - Updated - - -

Click to expand...

Some how got water intrusion.

The bottom 12" or so of the 1/8" luan was rotten. It is all laminated, that is where the strength is. Take away any of the lamination and you have failure.
Once the inner luan was rotten, rolling 800 pounds of SEEG out on to styrofoam essentially.

I first noticed a hairline crack on the outside. Thinking it was failing from the outside in I taped over the crack before the next trip our trip. Each out and in of the bike the crack got bigger, so I ended up leaving the bike in the garage for half our 3 week trip.

The video was taken the day we got home and I unloaded the bike.

- - - Updated - - -

schew said:

Like the other poster, I have access to crimping wire cable with thimbles and sleaves, and will gladly make you up some 3/16" cables ( factory size btw), just pay for the shipping. If you do go that route, add a carabiner on the low side so you can connect/disconnect quickly..

Click to expand...

Now that sounds like a deal you can't beat with a stick Mike

schew said:

Like the other poster, I have access to crimping wire cable with thimbles and sleaves, and will gladly make you up some 3/16" cables ( factory size btw), just pay for the shipping. If you do go that route, add a carabiner on the low side so you can connect/disconnect quickly..

Click to expand...

Now that sounds like a deal you can't beat with a stick Mike

Click to expand...

Thank you Schew. Let me know what you need from me. I appreciate the offer.

Hung some curtain rods and curtains this weekend over the sliders. We'll get the curtains hemmed so they don't touch the floor.

Puzzled_1 said:

Thank you Schew. Let me know what you need from me. I appreciate the offer.

Click to expand...

Not a problem.
I have a couple of questions and will need some specific measurements from you when you can.

I advise that you use a quick link up top and a carabiner for the lower point. Once you have the hardware I'll need the inside measurements of both quick link and carabiner as well an overall measurement from top pick point to bottom pick point. Once I have those, I'll swag a cable to length minus the inside length of quick link and carabiner, or whatever hardware you choose to use.
You will want the measurements to be as accurate as possible as these cables will not be adjustable.
Does that make sense?
My cable will not be vinyl coated, but you can chose between silver or black.

Added spare tire holders which I'm going to mount boxes to for storage. I'm going to store my chairs in one and my wood blocks in the other. This was a mod I saw here on the forum. I should have the boxes and tops finished up by friday. With a little luck I'll get them mounted this weekend.

Installed the stabilizer kit today. It was not difficult but did require me to install a couple of brackets a few different times until everything worked as it was suppose to. I'm looking forward trying these out in two weeks.

Momma made up the queen memory foam mattress. The mattress change was just enough to give us enough room to get around the bed without having to turn sideways to do so.

Made up some boxes for the tire holders. I had to cut them down as I did not allow for the movement it takes to get them onto the bracket on the frame, an oversight on my part. I made lids for the boxes, they still need to be cut down to match the boxes. I wasn't able to store what I originally wanted to in the boxes are they were simply to challenging to lift up onto the brackets once loaded. I started looking into tension rod pistons to help with the lifting. I simply haven't had the time to figure out exactly what I need.

Apparently I missed something winterizing the camper.... The flush valve? cracked and was leaking. Luckily I was one exit from a Campers Inn that had the part in stock.

Easter/Marathon camping in Sturbridge, Ma.







Watching playoff hockey on the patio at 8 in the evening...




No one close to us...

Picked up a surge protector just because....