Suburban hot water heater element
- Thread starter Bobby A
- Start date
RDsStudio59
Well-known member
Suburban 520900 120V Electric Element https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RCXD0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WJnLzbTKNF5EQ
Safe Travels,
Roger
Safe Travels,
Roger
RDsStudio59
Well-known member
57chevyconvt
Well-known member
As John noted, they are available at Lowes or Home Depot. As I recall, the replacement element wattage for the one at Lowes is a little less, say 1,400 watts versus 1,500 watts for the original Suburban element. Search Lowes website for Utilitech Water Heater Screw Element, cost is less than $10.00. You will need a special socket wrench to change out the element. This wrench can also be purchased at Lowes. I carry a spare element and wrench in my spare parts bin. The replacement element at Lowes is a wee bit shorter than the original, but that is not a problem.
danemayer
Well-known member
If you are not 100% certain the element is bad, you should take a look at our Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide. It'll step you through a diagnosis of the exact problem.
Thank you all for responding with good information, Lisa and I have noticed for the last week that the water is not getting as hot as it usually does and also the recovery time is very long. I turned on the propane yesterday afternoon and water got hot in a lot shorter time. Also, on the heating element, there is 2 electric terminals, does it matter which wire goes to which terminal ?? Thanks
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JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
From the schematic in the manual, it does not appear that it matters. It's like a resistor in a circuit, which is why it heats up.
When you remove the element, take a look at it. If it's scaled over, you may be able to clean it and reinstall it. If you can't easily remove the scale, just replace it.
I believe the life of the element is related to the quality of the water you put into the heater tank. Same for the anode rod. That's why I run all water through a two-stage filter system.
O.k. thanks John,
I just picked the element up from General RV fifteen bucks, camping world wanted over twice that much, I will post back after install, I may or may not get to it today as the well needed rains are upon us.
UPDate ON Element replacement,
O.K. everyone, I put the new heat element in this evening without issue, a couple things I noticed upon removing the old one. The original one was very loose, didn't have to use a pry bar to get it loose like the one I replaced several years back. The old element was filled with calcium deposits big time !! But, I'm not so sure that's the total problem, there may be something else wrong. After waiting several hours for the water to heat up it still doesn't get scolding hot water like before. Could there be something else going ?? if so what ?? I purchased the correct element a Suburban part number 520900. I know the install was correct cause I did it myself. The only thing I did not quite get was the two terminal connections on the element, if there was a special way to put the two wire connections. My buddy John on this forum said it didn't matter what wire went to either terminal, does everyone agree on this ?? Thanks for the help everyone, O, by the way, this water heater is only 2 years old.
Bobby A
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Bobby, did you check the Hi-Limit thermostat switches? I'm getting ready to head to the FD for a 24 hr. shift or I'd pull up the manual again for the schematics.
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John,
Don't know much about the hot water tank or what parts go bad other than the heating element and Anode rod. Once you get settled in at the FD maybe you can explain. Would that part your talking about make the water not so hot if its bad ?? I think you have my cell #, give me a call when you get a chance.
Thanks Buddy,
Bobby
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Starting to get a little frustrated on this one. Some times the water gets real hot and other times it just gets hot, but not as hot as usual. Does this make sense to everyone ?? Is it possible I got a defective heating element ?? Is there something else going wrong with my hot water tank ?? Need some help on this one please. Thank you,
Bobby
danemayer
Well-known member
I would suggest examining the electrical connections from the backside of the switch inside the coach, all the way through to the heating element, and from the heating element back to the neutral connection. That would include all of the points shown in the Troubleshooting Guide, as well as the junction box on the front inside corner of the water heater.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Yeah, Bobby, like Dan says. There really isn't anything fancy in the 120V circuit for the water heater. No circuit boards or such like the propane side. Loose or corroded connection, maybe a mouse dined on part of a wire. Does the propane heating system work?
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Thank you Dan & John for chiming in, I'm not good at all with electrical troubleshooting, I will take a look back there and see if I see anything and jiggle some wires. Yes, the propane side works.
Thank you both,
Bobby
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Start with the connectors for the element. Being semi-exposed, they may have some built up corrosion on them. Contact cleaner or even a little sandpaper might be needed.
Well that would mean I have to remove everything to get to the element ( remove the propane tube), as you know I'm leaving for Goshen on Monday so have to get the trailer ready for travel tomorrow. I will have to wait until I return on Thursday to tackle this. Maybe there is a mobile tech in the Elkhart/Goshen area. Any know of one ?? As I recall when removing the old element the terminals looked good, I will try it though. Is there like a thermostat switch that may be going bad ?? Again, not experienced in this area. At least for right now I do get hot water ( just not scaulding hot) and also if I need quick recovery, the propane side does work.
Thank you,
Bobby
