2017 Bighorn Fresh Water Tank

CDN

B and B
Hello,

We are going to week long festival and need to carry a full tank about 100 miles due to availability at the site. I have not opened up the corplast yet. I am wondering if there are extra cross sports under the tank to be able to travel when full? Has anyone had a tank drop out on the newer Bighorns?

I have run 50 miles with all three waste tanks full once with no issues. Was on a paved smooth highway.

I am looking to carry a bladder like Always on Liberty has used in the truck bed as well.

Thank you for your help

Brian
 

sengli

Well-known member
I personally would not do it. I have seen how these tanks are supported and installed at the factory. I seriously doubt the small sheet metal supports would be enough to support the water tank, bouncing down the road. Plus many others here have chimed in at one time or another stating that the sloshing, and vacuum on the tanks over flows, will cause the tank to drain considerably anyway while being towed. I believe the toy haulers with their larger tanks are better supported. I have at times left just enough water in the tank for emergencies only, while towing. I am sure others will have opinions too.
 

pegmikef

Well-known member
I used to travel with mine almost full on my Big Horn in a pinch and never had a problem. Mine was a 2014 (manufactured June 2013) so I don't know if they have changed the way they install them since then.
 

CDN

B and B
Thank you for your reply. i have run half full often with no issues. We are stopping at a park closer to our destination to fill up the tank and extra containers. In this case no water fill available on site. During the event we can pay for water fill $1 a gallon which is the same price as buying bottled water.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I've attached a photo taken on the factory floor in 2015 showing the fresh tank (I'm pretty sure it's a Landmark 365). You can tell it's the fresh tank by the overflow fitting in the top corner. Notice the reasonably heavy metal support structure supporting the tank and holding it in place.

Given that the Bighorn is built on the same line, I'd think Bighorn is probably the same.
 

Attachments

  • Fresh Tank Drain.jpg
    Fresh Tank Drain.jpg
    56.9 KB · Views: 139

jbeletti

Well-known member
Brian,

I travel daily with a lot of fresh water on board - sometimes a full tank. I reinforced my tank's cross-bar support by replacing the Tek screws with grade 8 bolts. For your 100 mile trip, I'd suggest you just take it really easy on the way and you should be fine.

I've had a tank slump down due to the weight carried and then shearing several Tek screws in the flanges of the cross-bar.

There are 2 steel straps below your tank that help keep it in position. Rearward, those straps loop over the cross-bar support. Forward, those straps connect into a steel framework/web that goes from frame rail to frame rail.

So, "if" 667 pounds (8.345# x 80 gallons) shears any of those 6 to 8 Tek screws, you could have some issues. Another consideration, if all that water is really needed, that some of it will slosh out during travel. To keep it all in, you would want to add shut-off valves on the 2 vent lines the exit the frame rails.

If you do add the shut-off valves, they should only be closed for travel. Always open for filling and for suctioning water from the tank.

If you plan to replace some of those Tek screws with grade 8 bolts - it will take you the better part of a day t do yourself. Best to do with the RV raised all the way up. You'll have to open up the underbelly to expose the back end of the tank.

See the April 5th portion of this thread for pics and details.
 
Last edited:

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
We dry camp most of the time and always leave home with a full tank of water, unless the trip is only a few days.

I've done this for 20+ years, with 5 different RV's and have never had an issue.

I did have to install two valves for the Bighorn's overflow valves (one on each side) to stop water from sloshing out as we drive.
 

CDN

B and B
Brian,

I travel daily with a lot of fresh water on board - sometimes a full tank. I reinforced my tank's cross-bar support by replacing the Tek screws with grade 8 bolts. For your 100 mile trip, I'd suggest you just take it really easy on the way and you should be fine.

I've had a tank slump down due to the weight carried and then shearing several Tek screws in the flanges of the cross-bar.

There are 2 steel straps below your tank that help keep it in position. Rearward, those straps loop over the cross-bar support. Forward, those straps connect into a steel framework/web that goes from frame rail to frame rail.

So, "if" 667 pounds (8.345# x 80 gallons) shears any of those 6 to 8 Tek screws, you could have some issues. Another consideration of all that water is really needed, that some of it will slosh out during travel. To keep it all in, you would want to add shut-off valves on the 2 vent lines the exit the frame rails.

If you do add the shut-off valves, they should only be closed for travel. Always open for filling and for suctioning water from the tank.

If you plan to replace some of those Tek screws with grade 8 bolts - it will take you the better part of a day t do yourself. Best to do with the RV raised all the way up. You'll have to open up the underbelly to expose the back end of the tank.

See the April 5th portion of this thread for pics and details.


Thanks Jim

I have shutoffs on the overflows from day 1. We are on site for 7 days with no shower facilities. We have done 5 days with a full tank with navy showers and judicious use of washing dishes. We are thinking of doing paper plates and such for dishwashing savings, I don' like it but we can recycle them.

Brian
 

esscobra

Well-known member
I just returned from 600 mile round trip - 300 there with full fresh tank - 300 back with pretty full grey black -and over half was thru interstate construction zones with bad roads- made same trip 3 times last year and many other with full fresh when leaving and full black/grey coming home- 80% of places I stay have no dumps or connections, or water ( race tracks ) and texas no longer has dumps at rest areas - and I have a dump station with water to rinse tank at my storage area- so its easier to do when I get home- now I do believe that screws and straps can fail, this is more on the uncommon than the normal and that the trailers are built to carry water and waste- why would they even put a tank in if it were not supposed to carry something? when I get around to doing a few projects I have lined up that require me to drop the belly chloroplast will I look and probably add more bolts -reinforcements - yes - but traveling with liquid in the tanks has not been a major concern - in fact on mine the fresh tank is more towards the rear and helps balance the load and ride.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I had my freshwater tank off of my 2008 Bighorn in 2014 during some major frame repairs. I saw a piece of 3/8 inch (?) OBS waferboard was under the tank, and the supporting straps ran under the OBS board. My board had a dry rot hole in the center, and I replaced it with a new board that I sealed as well as I could with wood preservative sealant. I then drilled a 3/8 inch hole in the center of the board about where the rotted section was on the old board, to let any accumulated water on top of the new board drip out. I think this board helped spread out the load points from the supporting straps.

If the trailer can't support a full tank of fresh water, it is under engineered. I usually drive with very little fresh water in the tank simply for fuel economy reasons.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Can’t disagree with you Bill. Heartland has vastly improved in this area. No more plywood supports under tanks out of plant 2 (LM, BH, BC) and much better supported in general.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

CDN

B and B
Update on how we made out.

I filled our tank to top. We travelled 50 miles to the venue and no issues. I have one vent plugged all of the time. The other one I made a wood plug for my overflow extension i take out when not traveling.

I also took an additional 50 US Gallons of water. I filled the tank once after 4 days. We used 20 gallons of water. In total we used 40 gallons and still had 1/3 showing when we left and I dumped the tank.

Surprising how many ways you can save water. Despite the ecological concerns we used disposable plates and cups.

Brian
 

dave10a

Well-known member
This thread is a little scarry. Also folks should be aware that the coroplast is not up to driving in the rain. By doing so and potential water leaks from the pipes one will accumulate a lot of water traped in it which eventually will rot things and smell after bacteria takes over. I think the iron rot is a big problem as well as a potential health hazzard from the bacteria. To me it is a way to cut corners at the owners long term expense. Sad......
 

CDN

B and B
I don’t dispute the fact on coreplast being leaky. The last trailer I had anything to do with that had a metal floor was a 1971 Boise Cascade Citation Travel Trailer. My 1982 had no covering in fact the plywood was painted with black tar to prevent rot. I sold that trailer in 2001 and it was still solid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
To prevent water from accumulating under the coroplast, drill some 1/4” holes through it (not through the foil above it) at low spots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top