Generator with inverter question + batteries

WalkTheLine

Active Member
I have a Prowler 32LX and I am looking to purchase a Honda EU2200i generator (see below). My TT has the stock battery. If I get this generator/inverter....here comes the stupid question...can I plug it into the trailer's 50A socket and run it through that way and run the lights and recharge the battery with a dog bone type adapter or do I use the generator connected directly to the TT battery using alligator clamps? Eventually I want to get the companion to run it in series so I can use the 30A plug but don't have the $ yet so trying to figure out how I can get by on one. Goal is to run lights, fans, water pump, inverter, and recharge batteries for 4-5 days boondocking.

Thanks!


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LBR

Well-known member
Adapt your 50A down to plug into the generator....it can be used as your shore power in a limited fashion. Also either make or buy a plug for your generator that will bond the common and neutrals together.
 

WalkTheLine

Active Member
Adapt your 50A down to plug into the generator....it can be used as your shore power in a limited fashion. Also either make or buy a plug for your generator that will bond the common and neutrals together.

I can use this one then: (50A down to 15A) and use heavy duty extension cord to generator. Thanks!

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emery395

Well-known member
I have residential fridge with inverter on board. However I am always plugged into 50a service.
Therefore I’m assuming I should have inverter turned off?
 

WalkTheLine

Active Member
I have residential fridge with inverter on board. However I am always plugged into 50a service.
Therefore I’m assuming I should have inverter turned off?

I learned today that it’s bad to leave TT plugged into 50A for fridge with the battery. How do you turn the inverter off?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
When plugged into shore power, be it 50 amp, 30 amp, 15 amp, or a generator, the residential refrigerator will receive the 120V AC through the dedicated transfer switch. It will only use the inverter output if shore power is interrupted. So the inverter can be turned off either using the remote button in the control panel, or the local button on the inverter.

That said, if you leave the inverter ON, you won't hurt anything. And if while you're away from the trailer the power should be interrupted, the refrigerator's transfer switch will automatically change over to the inverter power. Your food will stay cold during a power outage.
 

WalkTheLine

Active Member
When plugged into shore power, be it 50 amp, 30 amp, 15 amp, or a generator, the residential refrigerator will receive the 120V AC through the dedicated transfer switch. It will only use the inverter output if shore power is interrupted. So the inverter can be turned off either using the remote button in the control panel, or the local button on the inverter.

That said, if you leave the inverter ON, you won't hurt anything. And if while you're away from the trailer the power should be interrupted, the refrigerator's transfer switch will automatically change over to the inverter power. Your food will stay cold during a power outage.

Ok but what about the battery— won’t it get damaged by being constantly being charged by the inverter if the trailer is plugged into shore power?
 

LBR

Well-known member
Ok but what about the battery— won’t it get damaged by being constantly being charged by the inverter if the trailer is plugged into shore power?

The inverter doesn't charge the batteries...the converter does that and tapers off as batteries become charged.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Power Converter changes 120V AC into 12V DC to both run your 12V DC stuff and also to keep the batteries charged. Power Converters these days have 4 modes so that they can be operated continuously to manage the batteries.

Inverters change 12V DC to 120V AC so that 120V AC devices can be run when not on shore power.
 

SCPOSWRET

Active Member
Power Converter changes 120V AC into 12V DC to both run your 12V DC stuff and also to keep the batteries charged. Power Converters these days have 4 modes so that they can be operated continuously to manage the batteries.

Inverters change 12V DC to 120V AC so that 120V AC devices can be run when not on shore power.

Dan, I’m trying to find the paperwork on my late 2017 or early 2018 WFCO that came with my TT so in the meantime (and considering that often component “specifications” and “user manuals” are very much help)
I’m wondering if you know if any of the late model WFCO units, (often I’ve seen these referred to as “entry level” quality) are actually build with 4 (or even 3) modes? I’m thinking that it may be prudent to eliminate all doubt and just switch to a Progressive Dynamics that for sure operates with the 4 mode system and be done with it.

Your experience and knowledge are highly respected so I’d appreciate any help on this topic. Thanks again.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Dave,

Here's a link to the folder with the WFCO manuals we have. Both models have 3 modes that manage things. I think the one is a 65 amp output and the other is maybe 55 amp combined with AC and DC distribution.

If what you have is working, I wouldn't spend the money replacing unless you have some specific reason to do so.

I don't have firsthand experience with WFCO, but my own experience with Progressive Dynamic Power Converters and Transfer Switches is such that I'd have a hard time saying that Progressive Dynamics products are better than WFCO.
 

WalkTheLine

Active Member
Power Converter changes 120V AC into 12V DC to both run your 12V DC stuff and also to keep the batteries charged. Power Converters these days have 4 modes so that they can be operated continuously to manage the batteries.

Inverters change 12V DC to 120V AC so that 120V AC devices can be run when not on shore power.

Thanks for the explanation. As you can tell I’m still trying to get this all figured out!

thanks again.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Let me mention our recently published Electrical User Guide in this folder. It provides an electrical systems overview with some deep dives into 120V AC, 12V DC, and power coming from the tow vehicle.
 

SCPOSWRET

Active Member
Thanks for the explanation. As you can tell I’m still trying to get this all figured out!

thanks again.

Let me mention our recently published Electrical User Guide in this folder. It provides an electrical systems overview with some deep dives into 120V AC, 12V DC, and power coming from the tow vehicle.

Dan, Looks like I have the WF8955 PEC 55 Amp 3 Mode model, in which case I’ll take your advice and stick with this one for now. As usual, great advice. Assist much appreciated!
 

WalkTheLine

Active Member
Let me mention our recently published Electrical User Guide in this folder. It provides an electrical systems overview with some deep dives into 120V AC, 12V DC, and power coming from the tow vehicle.

Reading it now...I also picked up The Complete Book of Boondocking by Bill & Jan Moeller which has an easy to understand section on electrical and generator/inverter/converters. I did pull the caps off my electrolyte battery and it was just about bone dry in there so I added distilled water. Looking at upgrading to a gel battery once I add up all the amps and all.
 
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