Water heater anode rod

kbausano · Jul 14, 2018

Time to replace my rod. Received (2) 1-1/16” rods (wrench size) but they simply refuse to thread into the opening. Thread count and size appears to be the same, and I’ve struggled for nearly an hour trying to square up the threads and get them to ‘take,’ with no luck yet

Am I missing something here?

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olcoon · Jul 14, 2018

Whenever I take mine out, I'll clean up the threads with a small wire brush, then use teflon tape, or plumbers seal on the threads. Don't think you really need either one, but it helps it go in easier. Sometimes they can be a booger to get the threads aligned, you've just got to keep at it. Now that you've got the anode rod out, it's a good time to wash out all the loose corrosion that's in the tank. You can get a wand to put on your water hose & squirt water in there to clean it out, (LINK). It may take you a while to get it done, depends on how much is in there. Just about any RV store will have them, and maybe even Walmart.

jbeletti · Jul 15, 2018

kbausano said:
Time to replace my rod. Received (2) 1-1/16” rods (wrench size) but they simply refuse to thread into the opening. Thread count and size appears to be the same, and I’ve struggled for nearly an hour trying to square up the threads and get them to ‘take,’ with no luck yet

Am I missing something here?

Ken - I think I know what's up here as I've experienced it too. The anode rod when fully inserted is heavy. It pulls down and makes you want to cross-thread it.

What I do is insert the anode rod, then will putting downward pressure on the top of the nut, thread it in by hand.

kbausano · Jul 15, 2018

jbeletti said:
Ken - I think I know what's up here as I've experienced it too. The anode rod when fully inserted is heavy. It pulls down and makes you want to cross-thread it.

What I do is insert the anode rod, then will putting downward pressure on the top of the nut, thread it in by hand.

That’s exactly what I thought, from the beginning. Just not able to make it work yet (by hand), as much as I’ve tried.

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hoefler · Jul 15, 2018

Look for a snug fitting 6 point shallow socket, use it with a 6" extension as a handle, works for me.

Az_Ernie · Jul 15, 2018

Ken,

What I've found to have made starting the anode rod easier, is to insert the rod into the 1 1/16" socket with extension (without ratchet), then inserting and turning the rod assembly clockwise while putting a slight downward pressure on the end of the extension. Hope this helps - good luck!

Ernie

CoveredWagon · Jul 15, 2018

Please forgive me for sounding dumb but a couple of quick things.
First thing I think I see in the photo is the new rod appears to me to have a straight thread, not a taper thread. There is such a thing as a straight pipe thread. Why it would be on a anode rod beats me. I could be wrong. Second is just question, did you try to reinstall the old one? That should tell you if the threads in the heater are good. And finally are you trying to start it by hand or with it in a socket.?

jerryjay11 · Jul 15, 2018

First the new rod is tapered. Just measure it on the screen and you'll see. Second be sure to use either pipe dope or teflon tape or you could experience a leak or trouble removing it when time to change. Take it from an experienced HVAC tech who has worked many a HWH's and boilers in new England and Delaware. You may not notice the leak at first, but down the road water can seep through metal-to-metal contact of the threads. This can also cause corrosion between the threads thus destroying the threads.

Yes, rods are tricky for the once in awhile that homeowners/RVers will be involved. Even a tight fitting socket can have some wiggle to it so try using a sliver of paper to wedge the nut of the rod in the socket to make it tighter.

Lastly, check those threads in the HWH. Looking at your anode it should have been replaced a long time ago. You may just have some corroded threads. Cleaning them may help.

JohnDar · Jul 15, 2018

My question is what’s been your water source. Chernobyl?

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Roller4tan · Jul 15, 2018

JohnDar said:
My question is what’s been your water source. Chernobyl?

Mine looks like that after 5 months in Arizona.

kbausano · Jul 15, 2018

JohnDar said:
My question is what’s been your water source. Chernobyl?

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🤣

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kbausano · Jul 15, 2018

CoveredWagon said:
Please forgive me for sounding dumb but a couple of quick things.
Second is just question, did you try to reinstall the old one? That should tell you if the threads in the heater are good. And finally are you trying to start it by hand or with it in a socket.?

Not dumb at all: yes I’ve re-installed the old one a few times (just to prove to myself that my lyin’ eyes weren’t deceiving me

. And yes, by hand, since I don’t have a socket that size - but today I head to Harbor Freight to pick one up

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kbausano · Jul 15, 2018

jerryjay11 said:
First the new rod is tapered. Just measure it on the screen and you'll see. Second be sure to use either pipe dope or teflon tape or you could experience a leak or trouble removing it when time to change. Take it from an experienced HVAC tech who has worked many a HWH's and boilers in new England and Delaware. You may not notice the leak at first, but down the road water can seep through metal-to-metal contact of the threads. This can also cause corrosion between the threads thus destroying the threads.

Yes, rods are tricky for the once in awhile that homeowners/RVers will be involved. Even a tight fitting socket can have some wiggle to it so try using a sliver of paper to wedge the nut of the rod in the socket to make it tighter.

Lastly, check those threads in the HWH. Looking at your anode it should have been replaced a long time ago. You may just have some corroded threads. Cleaning them may help.

I’ll try all of your suggestions, jerryjay. Again, if I’ve done them prior

Today’s a new morning, thank gawd!

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LBR · Jul 15, 2018

Since you're able to reinsert the old rod easily, you could do so a couple more times again.....this time paying close attention to where the rod's male thread FIRST catches the female heater threads. Make a mental note at the clocking of it, then mark your new rod by matching the starting thread clocking. This could help eliminate the other 270° clocking fustrations of not catching the first thread.

kbausano · Jul 15, 2018

LBR said:
Since you're able to reinsert the old rod easily, you could do so a couple more times again.....this time paying close attention to where the rod's male thread FIRST catches the female heater threads. Make a mental note at the clocking of it, then mark your new rod by matching the starting thread clocking. This could help eliminate the other 270° clocking fustrations of not catching the first thread.

Thanks LBR. As a retired firefighter, we used those tricks all the time. Better yet, rotate counter-clockwise, and weight for a ‘click’ as the thread starts line up.

I appreciate your knowledge and help!

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CoveredWagon · Jul 15, 2018

kbausano said:
Thanks LBR. As a retired firefighter, we used those tricks all the time. Better yet, rotate counter-clockwise, and weight for a ‘click’ as the thread starts line up.

I appreciate your knowledge and help!

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wife looked the pictures as well. She thinks the new one has a straight not a tapered thread

jerryjay11 · Jul 15, 2018

CoveredWagon said:
wife looked the pictures as well. She thinks the new one has a straight not a tapered thread

All threaded plumbing are tapered and if you look close enough you'd see this as well. I actually used a tape measure to verify it is tapered. Now if you were talking about German plumbing fittings you might find straight pipe fittings as I did when I use to install German made wood/oil fired boilers in R.I. homes. Back then it was okay to tap lead-wool into the threads to stop the seepage because we only had American tapered fitting to use.

jnbhobe · Jul 15, 2018

Well I may as well drop my opinion in here, Have you checked the length of the new rod?? Could it be hitting the back of the tank???

57chevyconvt · Jul 15, 2018

jerryjay11 said:
First the new rod is tapered. Just measure it on the screen and you'll see. Second be sure to use either pipe dope or teflon tape or you could experience a leak or trouble removing it when time to change. Take it from an experienced HVAC tech who has worked many a HWH's and boilers in new England and Delaware. You may not notice the leak at first, but down the road water can seep through metal-to-metal contact of the threads. This can also cause corrosion between the threads thus destroying the threads.

Yes, rods are tricky for the once in awhile that homeowners/RVers will be involved. Even a tight fitting socket can have some wiggle to it so try using a sliver of paper to wedge the nut of the rod in the socket to make it tighter.

Lastly, check those threads in the HWH. Looking at your anode it should have been replaced a long time ago. You may just have some corroded threads. Cleaning them may help.

I agree with what has be aforementioned on how to hold the anode rod with a six point socket and extension during the anode installation. I use a round SST bottle brush that can be purchased from a plumbing supply to clean the female threads in the tank's threaded coupling. A closer look of the picture of the brass pipe plug that the anode is attached to appears to have the second lead thread to have been rolled over in such a way that it will not engage the coupling threads. If so, a rectangle needle file will correct this problem. This could have been caused by your attempt to install the anode rod without a socket and extension. The old saying, Been There And Done That. Hope this helps.

Jim828 · Jul 15, 2018

Ken, it looks like the threads are not sharp but rounded on the tops. Just looking at the ones covered by the tape and the one you can see untaped, I would say you got one that passed QC when it shouldn't have. If the start is rolled over, it will partially close the vee and not allow the thread to start. I'd be returning that one. The other possibility is that it's too long as noted in another answer.

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