ATF: Cyclone - 4200 Toy Hauler Kitchen slide-out

AnnaIvanZ

Member
After closing the kitchen slide-out after our last outing I noticed that the bottom rear of the slide-out didn't close tight against the side of the RV. After counting the teeth on the rails from the end of the rail into the drive sprockets the count on the rear rail has 2 more teeth between the end and the sprocket than the front rail. I measured the bottom front corner from the side of the RV to the outside of the trim of the slide-out front and back. The difference in measurement from front to back was 9/16 of an inch, (the back was the 9/16 inch more) which is roughly what 2 teeth on the rail would be. I also noticed when someone else runs the slide-out switch and I am able to watch it move underneath, the bracket that the rail and the cylinder pull rod are attached to on the bottom of the slide-out is slightly bent in. The square tube that the back and front bracket are welded to that runs the full length of the slide-out also flexes when moving in and out. There are 3 more holes that are drilled on this tube.........one before the back bracket, one in the center of the bracket, and one on the front. It appears that all the other bolts are lag bolts; is it possible to put 3 more bolts in those holes to help support the tube and keep it from flexing? The tube does not appear to be cracked; it just needs more support. I can probably straighten the bracket and reinforce it myself without any problem.

Is it possible to support the back of the slide with a block and jack and take the 2 bolts out and re-align the back rail to get the tooth count the same as the front?

There appears to be no binding or obstruction in the slide itself........inside, outside, or on the floor itself to keep it from closing.

On our last trip I encountered the roughest interstate highways I have ever driven on..........to the extent that we lost the spare tire from under the RV. Maybe this contributed to the problem. When the slide-out is run in, it seals on the front top and bottom, and on the top on the back, but I can get my fingers in between the seals on the bottom of the back.

Sorry this is so long, but these are the issues. I have no problems doing this myself, but need to know WHAT to do so it is done right the first time.

Thanks for any help anyone can give.
 

LBR

Well-known member
Do you remember if the rear closed tightly from day one, then noticing it doesn't now? If so, it may continue to get worse and skip more teeth like ours did.

We had our slide rear lagging compared to the front within first month of ownership, and had to have a new rack and gearbox installed....been fine for the last year since it happened.
 

AnnaIvanZ

Member
This afternoon I supported the rear of the slide-out with a block to take pressure off of the rail and straightened and reinforced the bracket. After pushing the slide-out back in so I could bolt the brackets back together I had the wife run the slide-out in a little bit at a time to make sure nothing was catching. When closed the seals are touching the RV. To be honest, I don't know if how it is now is the same as what it was when it was new. The trim pieces don't line up on the lower back corner, it's not as tight as the front side. It's better now than what it was when I started on it.

With the slide-out in now, if you count the exposed teeth on the rails that you can see outside of the frame, they are the same number showing front and back. For the time being, I think I will leave the rails alone, use it, see what happens, and see if anyone else has any feedback.
 
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