Belly full of water

sengli

Well-known member
First time towing this new rig home from the dealer...got caught in a terrible thunderstorm..while driving. Well its the old routine, when you tow in the rain, the belly gets full of water. Coroplast sagging pretty bad in the middle. Hand drilled some 1/4 holes to let the big chunks out.

So since this is a new left over landmark 365, it has BAT insulation in the belly as well as the foil. So now the BAT insulation is full off water. Taking down the entire sheet of coroplast is really what needs done, but I am not sure I want to do that. Taking it down would be easy, but putting it back would be near impossible. Any thoughts?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
If you take it down an 8 foot 2x4 will be your friend and help hold it up while you re install the screws.
If you are not opposed to it you could make the job easier by cutting the plastic and using some 1x2 boards along with some good scrim tape when you put it back together.
I know you are cringing at cutting apart a new camper but sometimes it's whats gotta be done. Or not.

Peace
Dave
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Cookie has given you great advice. Allow me to put a finer point on it as I've done this a number of times.

The coroplast is put on as a single sheet per level (main and drop frame) "before" anything else is done (suspension, gas lines, sewer lines etc.). As such, yea, getting if off in a single piece would likely not be possible.

I think by looking at it very carefully, you might get by with cutting across it in a single place and removing it in 2 pieces for the main floor and then the drop frame section in a single piece.

Whenever removing the coroplast that's been installed with Tek screws and fender washer, always use a small electric impact driver. Using a standard drill will usually snap the Tek screw heads off. It's very rare in the past many years of removing these screws with an impact driver that I've snapped a head. I use this one.

Have on hand, the following supplies:
- Socket Hex Screws (get a dozen - remove one of yours and buy the same size)
Tek-Socket-Hex-Screw.jpg
- Fender Washers (get a dozen - remove one of yours and buy the same size)
fender_washer.jpg

- Truss Head Screws x 3/4" (get 100 ea)
truss-head-screw.jpg
- Scrim Tape (get one roll - share with your friends - Amazon link)
scrim-tape.jpg
- 1"x3"x6' board x 1 ea or maybe 2 ea (I've used pine, poplar and oak)
poplar.jpg

If you will be replacing your fiberglass batt, consider using Rock Wool - link. It's heavier but will not hold water. I've used it in the underbelly before. Buy the special cutting knife for it too.
rock-wool.jpg

I use the boards to use as a splice point for the coroplast where I cut it frame-to-frame. I try to may my cut in a spot that is easy for me to work at on a creeper and not have to fight with axles, frame crossmembers etc. I trim the board to a width that allows me to angle it into place on top of the flange of each I-beam, then I use a Tek screw through the flange (from the bottom) to go up through the flange and into and through the wood. One per side has been effective. You'll want to position this board in the center of where 2 pieces of coroplast will come together.

Once these boards are in place and you have placed your coroplast back and pulled the ends of it to the board, use the truss-head screws to fasten (stitch of sorts) the coroplast to the board. I use about a 3" to 4" spacing. Once you have both pieces of coroplast fastened to the board, you're ready to seal it. Don't worry that you weren't able to completely pull the coroplast back together where the edges meet. I generally run a gap if an 1/8" to a 1/2". Now it's time to use the Scrim Tape. Practice makes perfect with this stuff - trust me. What I like to do is tape the seam with s single section of Scrim Tape. Peel about 1" of the paper backing off the tape. Centering the tape over your gap at one side of the frame, tape down that 1" section of tape over the seam up to the beam flange. Then carefully pull a couple feet of backing off the tape, pull the exposed tape tight and carefully place the tape over the seam. Use your hand to go back over placed tape to firmly press/smooth it into place. Repeat until you get to the other beam, then cut the end of tape at the roll. Done! Don't working of you need to use more than a single long piece of tape. It's a bear to get the backing off and way more time efficient to try to do it in a single piece but not always possible.
 
B

Boatman

Guest
I have removed and reinstalled my one piece coroplast a couple of times. I agree with all previous suggestions and my method to reinstall it is to use a 8 ft 2x4 and a small hyd jack. Start at one end and put the 2x4 on top of the jack, and jack the coroplast into position as you go along. Works like having another hand. Good luck, not a pleasant job.
 

sengli

Well-known member
So would you bother to try and put back the BAT type insulation again? I will try and not tow in the rain again, if I can help it. But there is now way to seal up the bottom of these rigs, so if I get caught in the rain again.... its going to do the same thing again. Not having any BAT insulation would be a lot easier to dry out, if it got soaked again.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
So would you bother to try and put back the BAT type insulation again? .
Our Bighorn does not have bat insulation in the belly. I guess I don't know what I'm missing.
Oh yes I do, not replacing wet bats.

Peace
Dave
 

CarterKraft

Well-known member
So would you bother to try and put back the BAT type insulation again? I will try and not tow in the rain again, if I can help it. But there is now way to seal up the bottom of these rigs, so if I get caught in the rain again.... its going to do the same thing again. Not having any BAT insulation would be a lot easier to dry out, if it got soaked again.

I could be wrong but I think a near air tight belly would be far more advantageous than a loosely sealed belly with some bats thrown in.

Obviously air tight might be unobtainable but might not be too hard to get close with some spray foam, tape etc.
 

dave10a

Well-known member
I have observed that other competitive manufactures make a sincere attempt to seal the under carrage. I have had water in mine after driving in the rain. I have sealed the coroblast and installed 7/16 inch duck bill flapper valves at various locations. I don't have leaks anymore from the rain. Also if i get a plumbing leak the flapper valves will dischard the water. It is a mystery to me why Heartland does not do a better job at sealing the undercarriage and better engineering.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
I have observed that other competitive manufactures make a sincere attempt to seal the under carrage. I have had water in mine after driving in the rain. I have sealed the coroblast and installed 7/16 inch duck bill flapper valves at various locations. I don't have leaks anymore from the rain. Also if i get a plumbing leak the flapper valves will dischard the water. It is a mystery to me why Heartland does not do a better job at sealing the undercarriage and better engineering.

I've wondered if the duck bill valves would be effective with so little pressure. Thanks for the report.

Duckbill Valves
duckbill.jpg
 

CarterKraft

Well-known member
I have observed that other competitive manufactures make a sincere attempt to seal the under carrage. I have had water in mine after driving in the rain. I have sealed the coroblast and installed 7/16 inch duck bill flapper valves at various locations. I don't have leaks anymore from the rain. Also if i get a plumbing leak the flapper valves will dischard the water. It is a mystery to me why Heartland does not do a better job at sealing the undercarriage and better engineering.


Great idea on the duck bills!
 

dave10a

Well-known member
Cool Dave - Can you advise on where you purchased yours and how much they cost?
You can get either the duck bill discharge nozzle 1/2 inch from store that sell fish tanks-- that may require a some rework. Or do what I did and salvage the duck bill nozzle from the DEF bottles used for diesel trucks-- in that case they are free. As I use up more DEF containers as well as the throw away jugs from friends I add more valves. So far I have 6 installed that seem to do the trick. I suppose they are available on the Inet as well.
I drill a 7/16 hole in the coroblast and insert the flapper valve into it. Fits tight enough to stay.
 

sengli

Well-known member
The duck bills look like a great idea. I simply used to put 1/4 inch holes in the coroplast on my big horn, to drain the water.

The problem here is that the landmarks, are built with batt insulation in the belly as well, as the foil. And unfortunately that batt insulation will absorb the water and hold it. So if not purged when its wet, I feel the water filled insulation would cause mold issue's, due to the excessive moisture in the belly.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Cookie has given you great advice. Allow me to put a finer point on it as I've done this a number of times.

The coroplast is put on as a single sheet per level (main and drop frame) "before" anything else is done (suspension, gas lines, sewer lines etc.). As such, yea, getting if off in a single piece would likely not be possible.

I think by looking at it very carefully, you might get by with cutting across it in a single place and removing it in 2 pieces for the main floor and then the drop frame section in a single piece.

Whenever removing the coroplast that's been installed with Tek screws and fender washer, always use a small electric impact driver. Using a standard drill will usually snap the Tek screw heads off. It's very rare in the past many years of removing these screws with an impact driver that I've snapped a head. I use this one.

Have on hand, the following supplies:
- Socket Hex Screws (get a dozen - remove one of yours and buy the same size)
View attachment 59322
- Fender Washers (get a dozen - remove one of yours and buy the same size)
View attachment 59323

- Truss Head Screws x 3/4" (get 100 ea)
View attachment 59321
- Scrim Tape (get one roll - share with your friends - Amazon link)
View attachment 59324
- 1"x3"x6' board x 1 ea or maybe 2 ea (I've used pine, poplar and oak)
View attachment 59325

If you will be replacing your fiberglass batt, consider using Rock Wool - link. It's heavier but will not hold water. I've used it in the underbelly before. Buy the special cutting knife for it too.
View attachment 59326

I use the boards to use as a splice point for the coroplast where I cut it frame-to-frame. I try to may my cut in a spot that is easy for me to work at on a creeper and not have to fight with axles, frame crossmembers etc. I trim the board to a width that allows me to angle it into place on top of the flange of each I-beam, then I use a Tek screw through the flange (from the bottom) to go up through the flange and into and through the wood. One per side has been effective. You'll want to position this board in the center of where 2 pieces of coroplast will come together.

Once these boards are in place and you have placed your coroplast back and pulled the ends of it to the board, use the truss-head screws to fasten (stitch of sorts) the coroplast to the board. I use about a 3" to 4" spacing. Once you have both pieces of coroplast fastened to the board, you're ready to seal it. Don't worry that you weren't able to completely pull the coroplast back together where the edges meet. I generally run a gap if an 1/8" to a 1/2". Now it's time to use the Scrim Tape. Practice makes perfect with this stuff - trust me. What I like to do is tape the seam with s single section of Scrim Tape. Peel about 1" of the paper backing off the tape. Centering the tape over your gap at one side of the frame, tape down that 1" section of tape over the seam up to the beam flange. Then carefully pull a couple feet of backing off the tape, pull the exposed tape tight and carefully place the tape over the seam. Use your hand to go back over placed tape to firmly press/smooth it into place. Repeat until you get to the other beam, then cut the end of tape at the roll. Done! Don't working of you need to use more than a single long piece of tape. It's a bear to get the backing off and way more time efficient to try to do it in a single piece but not always possible.

I have used Gorilla tape as well as scrim tape. I do like the scrim tape, but both work well. You do have to clean the surfaces well prior to applying the tape. I use glass cleaner followed by pure isopropyl alcohol. When really dirty I first use ZEP industrial degreaser. ZEP can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe's. Both adhere well.
 

dave10a

Well-known member
The duck bills look like a great idea. I simply used to put 1/4 inch holes in the coroplast on my big horn, to drain the water.

The problem here is that the landmarks, are built with batt insulation in the belly as well, as the foil. And unfortunately that batt insulation will absorb the water and hold it. So if not purged when its wet, I feel the water filled insulation would cause mold issue's, due to the excessive moisture in the belly.
I too drilled 1/4 inch holes at first and then installed the duck bills after enlarging those holes as a obtained them. My unit has the insulation material that has vinyl sheeting between the coroplast and insulation and don't believe the insulation became saturated because of that sheathing before I drained the water. I dropped one side of the coroplast to check it out. I looked OK, so I may have caught it in time. The water leaks from driving in wet weather came via the spring hanger area where the idiots at the factory cut the coroplast to allow for the spring hangers to much beyond the frame exposing the underbelly area. Anyway, there is no foul smell and the water dripping has stopped-- so maybe I'm OK. Time will tell.
 
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