Now i’m Legal

BWStark · Sep 18, 2018

Bryan, Tx., took my written test last Wed. And they set me up for my driving test today at 1400. Passed it so now I can do this legally. For those who may not know, you can take the written test one place and the driving test another. On both days I was the only one there for the driving test. Anyway, new question. I have a b&w companion hitch, 20,000 lb rating. Having trouble getting the jaws to release the pin. Things i’ve Done raised trailer so weight is not on hitch, backed into the pin to try and release pressure. The wheels are sitting on pads level side to side and is probably 1 inch high off level in the front. Any suggestions.

LBR · Sep 18, 2018

BWStark said:
Bryan, Tx., took my written test last Wed. And they set me up for my driving test today at 1400. Passed it so now I can do this legally. For those who may not know, you can take the written test one place and the driving test another. On both days I was the only one there for the driving test. Anyway, new question. I have a b&w companion hitch, 20,000 lb rating. Having trouble getting the jaws to release the pin. Things i’ve Done raised trailer so weight is not on hitch, backed into the pin to try and release pressure. The wheels are sitting on pads level side to side and is probably 1 inch high off level in the front. Any suggestions.

Once I preload the front jacks, I always put transmission into neutral, let truck find it's happy spot, set parking brake, then transmission back into park. This always unloads the pin from the jaws for me to pull the lever to release....always works unless truck is in an unlevel situation of course.

TravelTiger · Sep 18, 2018

We have the BW Companion hitch. (Erika) I'm in charge of putting down the front legs, and raising the fiver to unhitch.

While raising the fifth wheel to unload the weight on the pin, I stare intently and watch for the pin plate to separate from the plate of the hitch. The instant it separates, I stop raising it. This seems to work perfectly. I can then go to the hitch and open the jaws. I struggled a year or so before finding this technique. Our previous hitch, a Reese, wasn't near as finicky.

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BWStark · Sep 18, 2018

LBR said:
Once I preload the front jacks, I always put transmission into neutral, let truck find it's happy spot, set parking brake, then transmission back into park. This always unloads the pin from the jaws for me to pull the lever to release....always works unless truck is in an unlevel situation of course.

Thanks for the input. I did go back out and do what you said and it worked. I think it was a combo of tired, hot and cranky hitch. I also re chocked my tires a little tighter.

- - - Updated - - -

TravelTiger said:
We have the BW Companion hitch. (Erika) I'm in charge of putting down the front legs, and raising the fiver to unhitch.

While raising the fifth wheel to unload the weight on the pin, I stare intently and watch for the pin plate to separate from the plate of the hitch. The instant it separates, I stop raising it. This seems to work perfectly. I can then go to the hitch and open the jaws. I struggled a year or so before finding this technique. Our previous hitch, a Reese, wasn't near as finicky.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Reese was never like this. I do like this hitch because there is no chucking with it. On the other hand the system was already installed in the truck, we were leaving the day after we bought the truck. Thanks for the reply

avvidclif · Sep 19, 2018

If on a non-level site I always chocked and then let the rv settle against the chocks. Then put it in forward or reverse whichever way the hill ran and let the TV move slightly. Set emergency brake then into park.

pegmikef · Sep 19, 2018

Congrats on the Class A. I finally got mine last year.

Lou_and_Bette · Sep 20, 2018

Just renewed mine for the first time yesterday. For some reason, was unable to renew on line. Vision test and new photo...good to go for another 6 years. Class A renewal on line something new and everyone at DPS unsure why I couldn’t renew on line. Mine had a motorcycle endorsement also so who knows. I will have to go in person from now on because of age issues after this one expires in 6 years

pkwett94 · Nov 13, 2018

I have had my class A for 20 yrs so I guess I am legal, just never knew that for pulling a camping trailer that you had to have one. I have lived in MN and now NC and never heard that. Is that a state law?

pjones1969 · Nov 13, 2018

Congrats, I got my Class A Exempt last year, what written tests did you have to take? Just asking because there seems to be conflicting info depending on where you go for the tests.

My experience starts in post 61
https://heartlandowners.org/showthr...-am-now-legal!!!!/page7?highlight=I%92m+legal

On the B&W, do you think you might of been raising it too high and creating pressure on the king pin ridge from underneath? I’ve never experienced what you have, I also do it how TravelTiger does it, as soon as I see the seperation I stop.

ksucats · Nov 14, 2018

PKWett94: We are talking about a 'non-commercial' class A license, not a CDL. Here in Kansas, as well as many other states, you have to have a class A non-commercial license if your trailer GVW is over 10K, or if your combined truck and trailer GCWR (gross combined weight rating) is 26K or higher. I think there might be a truck GVW as well but when I researched for KS the only thing I remember is combined truck and trailer. My coach is 17.5K and my truck is 14K so I have to have the Class A non-commercial license to be 'legal'.

The question always comes up about how many know about this - very few I'm sure. I know when I was researching it I spoke with two different RV dealerships and neither told me of the Class A requirement. When I specifically asked the question, only one told me it was needed but he also added "but so few actually get them."

One other thing - air brakes. Here in Kansas it appears that if you get a Class A coach (not speaking license now

) and it is under 26K you still need an air-brakes endorsement on your license if you have air brakes on the coach. Makes me wonder how many of those BIG Class A coach drivers have either the class A license, or air brake endorsement. LOL .....

pkwett94 · Nov 14, 2018

ksucats said:
PKWett94: We are talking about a 'non-commercial' class A license, not a CDL. Here in Kansas, as well as many other states, you have to have a class A non-commercial license if your trailer GVW is over 10K, or if your combined truck and trailer GCWR (gross combined weight rating) is 26K or higher. I think there might be a truck GVW as well but when I researched for KS the only thing I remember is combined truck and trailer. My coach is 17.5K and my truck is 14K so I have to have the Class A non-commercial license to be 'legal'.

The question always comes up about how many know about this - very few I'm sure. I know when I was researching it I spoke with two different RV dealerships and neither told me of the Class A requirement. When I specifically asked the question, only one told me it was needed but he also added "but so few actually get them."

One other thing - air brakes. Here in Kansas it appears that if you get a Class A coach (not speaking license now ) and it is under 26K you still need an air-brakes endorsement on your license if you have air brakes on the coach. Makes me wonder how many of those BIG Class A coach drivers have either the class A license, or air brake endorsement. LOL .....

With the commercial CDL if the truck is 26,000 and the trailer is over 10,000 then you have to have a class A. And that is for both bumper pull or 5th wheel. If the truck has air brakes you have to have a CDL even if it is under 26,000 gvw.

I think people with the Pushers and Tuggers that have air brakes should have to have a CDL. Too many people get in them and have no clue as to what is needed as far as inspecting the slack adjusters or how much play is allowed. I know a couple people with pushers and I would not be anywhere near them on the road.

ksucats · Nov 14, 2018

I was at one of the larger RV dealers in the greater KC area and was lusting over a 200K Class A. Sales droid came out to show us some of the features. Tag wheel, rear bath bigger than some apartments (or so he said), and NO need for anything other than your regular car license. I specifically asked him about needing anything for the air brakes and was told 'nope - nothing besides your license that you have for driving your car!' To think that there are people out there that have no idea how to maintain air brakes is scary. I'm going to go out on a limb and say I'd imagine some of the things we had to check on our military trucks 25 years ago have not gone away (air dryers, draining water from the air tanks, emergency brake air pressure, etc.) Hope the dealer gives a good, long, and humbling training to new drivers. 'nuff said I guess.

Now i’m Legal

BWStark

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LBR

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TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired

BWStark

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avvidclif

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pegmikef

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Lou_and_Bette

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pkwett94

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pjones1969

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ksucats

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pkwett94

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ksucats

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