Anderson switch setting - Sanitize/Winterize versus Normal

JeffG1947

Member
What happens if you forget to turn the Anderson valve from Sanitize/Winterize to Normal and start using city water from hose?

We have a 2013 Bighorn 3585RL. Only used trailer once this year and I forgot to change the Anderson valve position. I ran water through the lines to remove antifreeze then moved the Bypass valve position and used the trailer with no apparent problems (except HW heater never worked on 110v only propane, and I assume this is an unrelated problem).

Thanks,
Jeff
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
When the valve is in the Winterize position the inlet plumbing bypasses the water heater. This is done so that you would drain your water heater, using the drain plug, and don't have to fill your water heater with gallons of RV antifreeze when winterizing. You likely have an empty water heater if the unit was drained as part of the winterize process. If the water heater was empty when you turned it on--using 110vac---then you very likely burned out the element.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
When the valve is in the Winterize position the inlet plumbing bypasses the water heater. This is done so that you would drain your water heater, using the drain plug, and don't have to fill your water heater with gallons of RV antifreeze when winterizing. You likely have an empty water heater if the unit was drained as part of the winterize process. If the water heater was empty when you turned it on--using 110vac---then you very likely burned out the element.

My understanding is that the water heater bypass valve is independent of the 4-way Anderson Valve.

In Sanitize/Winterize mode, the water inlet connection is connected to the suction side of the water pump. If the Anderson Valve is operating normally, and the water pump is not ON, I don't think there's a path from the water inlet to the plumbing fixtures. But, if the water pump was left ON, the campground water would feed through the pump and on to the plumbing fixtures.
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
My understanding is that the water heater bypass valve is independent of the 4-way Anderson Valve.

In Sanitize/Winterize mode, the water inlet connection is connected to the suction side of the water pump. If the Anderson Valve is operating normally, and the water pump is not ON, I don't think there's a path from the water inlet to the plumbing fixtures. But, if the water pump was left ON, the campground water would feed through the pump and on to the plumbing fixtures.


DOH!! You are correct on the separate water heater isolation valve. I don't know what I was thinking of. Sorry for the misinformation.
 

JeffG1947

Member
My understanding is that the water heater bypass valve is independent of the 4-way Anderson Valve.

In Sanitize/Winterize mode, the water inlet connection is connected to the suction side of the water pump. If the Anderson Valve is operating normally, and the water pump is not ON, I don't think there's a path from the water inlet to the plumbing fixtures. But, if the water pump was left ON, the campground water would feed through the pump and on to the plumbing fixtures.

What you say makes sense. I had the Anderson valve replaced last year when the original broke at the handle (that was a real wet mess) and now I'm wondering if it was installed correctly. I got water to the fixtures and to the HW heater with the pump off. At the end of the trip I winterized (Bypass HW heater; in Winterize mode; pump on) and everything worked out fine. I'll have it checked out in the spring.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The replacement valve may be a little different from the original. I think there is a secondary channel so that in CITY mode, the pump will still work, and in NORMAL mode, city water will still flow. But TANK and WINTERIZE modes I think allow flow to a single destination; TANK directs water into the fresh tank, and WINTERIZE should only draw fluid into the water pump and on to the fixtures.
 
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