just lost 12V power in door side slideout only. RESOLVED

Bobby A

Well-known member
Any suggestions please ?? the wife and I were sitting at the table playing cards, the light over the table flickered a few times than went out.I checked all the other lighting in that slideout, and it does not work either. All the 12V in the rest of the coach does work. Help please ???
Thank you,
Bobby
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

You didn't mention checking the fuse box for a blown fuse, so check that first.

Second, look under the slide for 1) a metal junction box - might have a loose wire nut, 2) for the entry point where wires go up into the slide - probably at the rear of the slide. Flex may have left the wire damaged.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

You didn't mention checking the fuse box for a blown fuse, so check that first.

Second, look under the slide for 1) a metal junction box - might have a loose wire nut, 2) for the entry point where wires go up into the slide - probably at the rear of the slide. Flex may have left the wire damaged.

Thanks Dan, your always there to help and I (we) greatly appreciate all your great advise/knowledge. Yes, I did check the fuse in the 12V box. I will open the square junction box that is on the floor in the rear of that slideout. Then, check under the slideout where the wires come into the coach. I will report back. Again, thanks very much.
Bobby A
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

You didn't mention checking the fuse box for a blown fuse, so check that first.

Second, look under the slide for 1) a metal junction box - might have a loose wire nut, 2) for the entry point where wires go up into the slide - probably at the rear of the slide. Flex may have left the wire damaged.

Dan,
Right before I checked both metal junction boxes inside and out I turned on the lights in the slideout and the lights came on!!, I opened the junction boxes and all looks good, I started wiggling the wires to see if I could get them to flash on and off for a loose connection, all the lights stayed on with no interruption or flashing of the lights, so no loose connection. Now, I had forgot to mention that a couple days ago I noticed on my smart light 1000 a red light was flashing, reading on the instructions that means low voltage on the battery. What gets me puzzled, is when the lights went out in the slideout, all the other 12 volts lights in the coach were working. Please advise, what should I do next ???

I appreciate your help,
Bobby
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

See if the fuse is loose. If so, you can bend the fuse blades very slightly in opposite directions to get a tight fit.

If you're on shore power, the smart light and other 12V DC lights should be getting power from the power converter, even if the battery is removed.

If you have auto levelup, cycle the control panel buttons to read voltage at the levelup panel. On shore power, disconnected from the tow vehicle, you would normally see 13.2 - 13.6V DC on the display. If it's lower, perhaps below 12V, you may have a low battery because the power converter isn't working. As the battery voltage drops, miscellaneous problems will show up.

There's a diagnostic flowchart in our 12V Block Diagram and Troubleshooting guide, located in this folder.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

See if the fuse is loose. If so, you can bend the fuse blades very slightly in opposite directions to get a tight fit.

If you're on shore power, the smart light and other 12V DC lights should be getting power from the power converter, even if the battery is removed.

If you have auto levelup, cycle the control panel buttons to read voltage at the levelup panel. On shore power, disconnected from the tow vehicle, you would normally see 13.2 - 13.6V DC on the display. If it's lower, perhaps below 12V, you may have a low battery because the power converter isn't working. As the battery voltage drops, miscellaneous problems will show up.

There's a diagnostic flowchart in our 12V Block Diagram and Troubleshooting guide, located in this folder.

Thank you Dan for your quick reply, as you suggested I check the fuse, its seems very tight in its holder. I moved to the level up and its reading 13.1
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

13.1 at the levelup panel suggests that the Power Converter is working, the batteries are charged, and the circuit breaker between Power Converter and batteries is working.

From all of this, I think you may have a loose connection or damaged wire. On my trailer, the lighting wires for the slides enter the floor of each slide at the rear outside corner. I've had problems at one of those entry points.

That doesn't explain the earlier problem with the smart light, unless it's mounted on that slideout, and gets its power from the same circuit/fuse.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

13.1 at the levelup panel suggests that the Power Converter is working, the batteries are charged, and the circuit breaker between Power Converter and batteries is working.

From all of this, I think you may have a loose connection or damaged wire. On my trailer, the lighting wires for the slides enter the floor of each slide at the rear outside corner. I've had problems at one of those entry points.

That doesn't explain the earlier problem with the smart light, unless it's mounted on that slideout, and gets its power from the same circuit/fuse.

Well, I guess that is good news that the converter is not bad. I did wiggle the wires inside and outside to get the lights to flicker with no results. As per the Smart Light, Yes it is on the same side but on a different circuit, I checked that early today when we first were troubleshooting. The lights in that slideout are currently working, I don't get it ?? Again I thank you for your help with this.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

13.1 at the levelup panel suggests that the Power Converter is working, the batteries are charged, and the circuit breaker between Power Converter and batteries is working.

From all of this, I think you may have a loose connection or damaged wire. On my trailer, the lighting wires for the slides enter the floor of each slide at the rear outside corner. I've had problems at one of those entry points.

That doesn't explain the earlier problem with the smart light, unless it's mounted on that slideout, and gets its power from the same circuit/fuse.

Dan,
Just for the heck of it, I took the AGM battery out to be tested under a load, as you said the battery is GOOD !! Yea !! While I had the battery out I checked the positive and negative cables running into I think you call it a buss bar ?? Anyway, the negative was loose, in fact all the wires going into that buss bar was loose, I tightened all of them up. I am hoping (praying) just the negative cable was loose. I will report back later tonight or tomorrow with an update. Thank you very much for your expertise.

Bobby
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Dan,
Just for the heck of it, I took the AGM battery out to be tested under a load, as you said the battery is GOOD !! Yea !! While I had the battery out I checked the positive and negative cables running into I think you call it a buss bar ?? Anyway, the negative was loose, in fact all the wires going into that buss bar was loose, I tightened all of them up. I am hoping (praying) just the negative cable was loose. I will report back later tonight or tomorrow with an update. Thank you very much for your expertise.

Bobby
From the battery, the thick red wire goes from the positive terminal of the battery to one of the breakers on the buss bar. The copper bar that connects all the breakers provide power to all the breakers. The wires on the other side of each breaker get power through their respective breaker in order to provide power to the devices like hydraulics pump, electric slideouts, etc.

The thick black or white wire from the negative terminal of the battery goes to a ground buss bar that is screwed into the frame of the trailer.

After the 12V gets to your lights, the circuit continues until it gets to a ground buss. For the light to work, it needs both 12V DC and a good ground.

If there's a poor ground connection for your light circuit, the power cannot flow reliably, which will cause lights to flicker. So there's a pretty good chance you've got it fixed.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Bobby, if you continue to have a problem after you have tightened up the neutral wires on the buss bar be sure to check the wires on the switch as well as the wires on the light.
Sometimes it's the simple things.

Peace
Dave
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Bobby, if you continue to have a problem after you have tightened up the neutral wires on the buss bar be sure to check the wires on the switch as well as the wires on the light.
Sometimes it's the simple things.

Peace
Dave

Thats a GREAT idea Dave, however all the lights we are speaking of don't have a wall switch, the switch is on the fixtures, (kitchen light over table, and sconsch lights) all have switches on the fixture.

After I tightened the wires on the buss bar, I turned on the smart light and still get a red light indicating a low voltage on the battery even after I had the battery out and tested under load that the battery is good and a good charge. I don't get it, is it possible the smart light has become defective ?? its been in use on the coach for several years. BTW, the lights that went out last night have not went out tonight. I don't get it !!!

What do you and Dan think??

Thank you
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Thats a GREAT idea Dave, however all the lights we are speaking of don't have a wall switch, the switch is on the fixtures, (kitchen light over table, and sconsch lights) all have switches on the fixture.

After I tightened the wires on the buss bar, I turned on the smart light and still get a red light indicating a low voltage on the battery even after I had the battery out and tested under load that the battery is good and a good charge. I don't get it, is it possible the smart light has become defective ?? its been in use on the coach for several years. BTW, the lights that went out last night have not went out tonight. I don't get it !!!

What do you and Dan think??

Thank you
It's possible the Smart Light wiring has a problem, or the light itself. Apart from the red light, how is it working?
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

It's possible the Smart Light wiring has a problem, or the light itself. Apart from the red light, how is it working?

Good afternoon Dan and happy Fathers Day,
We had the suspected problem lights on in that slide out last night for several hours with no issues of blinking or complete cut off like I first reported. Maybe the tightening of the negative cable to the buss bar was the problem, not a 100% sure but for now they are working and I guess only time will tell. As for the smart light, it still blinks red, I guess i could order another one or just put the old style light back up there as this smart light was an add on, I think I may have purchased it at a Rally several years ago, not quite sure. Never less, it has worked perfectly for several year without issue.
I have it shut off at the switch inside for the time being. I appreciate your concern to help me with my issues. Have a great day,
Bobby
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Bobby,

At the fuse box inside the trailer, if you unscrew the cover plate mounting screws, you'll see another buss bar for ground wires. You might check those screws to make sure they're all tight.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Bobby,

At the fuse box inside the trailer, if you unscrew the cover plate mounting screws, you'll see another buss bar for ground wires. You might check those screws to make sure they're all tight.

Dan,
O,K I will check that out, I have two fuse boxes, one for 12V and the other for 110, I would assume you are talking about the 12V box ???

Again, I can't thank you enough for your willingness to help. I will keep you posted.

Blessings,
Bobby
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Yes, check the 12V DC fuse box with the blade type fuses. The other is usually referred to as the main circuit breaker panel, with 120V AC circuit breakers.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Yes, check the 12V DC fuse box with the blade type fuses. The other is usually referred to as the main circuit breaker panel, with 120V AC circuit breakers.

Update,
Its been almost a week now and I have not lost power in the 12V suspected lighting area in the door side slide out. Maybe me tightening up the ground in the buss bar was the issue, just not quite sure. I ordered a new smart light and it just came in yesterday, we are not suppose to have rain in MI. tomorrow and I should be able to install it to see if the red light that I have been experiencing is do to a faulty smart light. I will find that out tomorrow after the install of the new one. I will continue to post until all has been resolved and put to bed.
Thanks Dan and everyone,
Bobby A
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
Re: just lost 12V power in door side slideout only.

Update,
Its been almost a week now and I have not lost power in the 12V suspected lighting area in the door side slide out. Maybe me tightening up the ground in the buss bar was the issue, just not quite sure. I ordered a new smart light and it just came in yesterday, we are not suppose to have rain in MI. tomorrow and I should be able to install it to see if the red light that I have been experiencing is do to a faulty smart light. I will find that out tomorrow after the install of the new one. I will continue to post until all has been resolved and put to bed.
Thanks Dan and everyone,
Bobby A

2nd and final update,
Well everyone, I swapped out my old Smart Light that was about 8 years old and the red light has been flashing for a week or so, battery checked out good. After the install of the new smart light warning light is now green as it should be. So, to put an end to this thread, my 12volt lights are working and now the smart light is doing what it is suppose to. Thanks Dan and everyone who posted on this to help me out, hopefully this will help someone out in the future,

Bye for now,
Bobby A
 
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