Check Your Shore Connections

MCTalley

Well-known member
We've been stationary in Florida from early February until July 4th when we hooked up the Big Country to head west to visit family. When I unhooked our 50 Amp cord from the trailer, I was a little dismayed to see that one of the terminals on the shore cord end was darkened.

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Since we would be on the road for 10 days, there wasn't much I could do about it immediately. Besides, looking into the socket on the outside of the trailer the corresponding terminal looked clean. I did order a SmartPlug socket and cord end kit from Amazon to be delivered to our family at our destination in Washington state.

I installed everything today. I started with the trailer connector socket first to make sure I didn't run into any problems (I didn't). There was enough extra cord to pull out pretty far.

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I disassembled the trailer socket. Here's where things got interesting. Looks like the red wire got pretty hot. Also note some green corrosion.

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After removing the wire from the old socket, I cut it back about 4-5 inches and prepared it again for the new socket, making sure I had good, clean wires.

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I left the socket hanging for later testing and turned to the shore power cord. I used a hacksaw to cut the end off and trimmed back the outer insulation and cut off the appropriate amount of insulation from each wire.

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I didn't take pictures during assembly, but here's the final cord end.

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And here it is plugged into the rig (after testing). Note that there are two silver squeeze to release latches on the side of the plug and the socket cover also serves to hold the cord in place.

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I tore down the old trailer socket a bit more. Here's more of the carnage caused by the overheated contact.

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Part of the moral to this story is if you are sitting still and using your RV for long periods of time (we're full-time), maybe take a few minutes every month or two and unplug your shore power to check for any burning.

Note that we have an EMS that is hardwired into our trailer just before the breaker box inside. I do have the voltage monitor and check it regularly for voltage drop under load (indicative of a bad connection) and really never saw anything suspect.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Good catch Malcolm. Wondering if water intrusion was the root cause.

You won't miss the old twist-and-lock. I've had the SmartPlug since the Goshen Rally (June) and love it.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Malcom Talley:

Terrific, helpful, well illustrated with photos, posting. An outstanding example of the type of help this forum aspires to provide!!!

UNTIL you get this new plug/socket system (at a a cost of around $200) with 20 TIMES THE CONTACT AREA OF THE CONVENTIONAL TWISTLOCK CONNECTON (More contact area = less contact electrical resistance and resultant heating with electrical current flow), I think that just about the best thing you can do is use Caig DeOxIt contact cleaner/restorer spray on ALL power cord contact surfaces before plugging in.

Another $200 item to add to the upgrade/maintenance list - Sigh! I just ordered the air conditioner noise reduction baffle/filter for over $200 all in. Then there is the 200 series toilet, the replacement awning, new slide seals, roof cool/sealant treatment, . . . . . . .
 

Mrsfish

Well-known member
Malcom Talley:

Terrific, helpful, well illustrated with photos, posting. An outstanding example of the type of help this forum aspires to provide!!!

UNTIL you get this new plug/socket system (at a a cost of around $200) with 20 TIMES THE CONTACT AREA OF THE CONVENTIONAL TWISTLOCK CONNECTON (More contact area = less contact electrical resistance and resultant heating with electrical current flow), I think that just about the best thing you can do is use Caig DeOxIt contact cleaner/restorer spray on ALL power cord contact surfaces before plugging in. “”

Which DeOxIt do you recommend. There are a few different types...please and thank you
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Malcom Talley:

Terrific, helpful, well illustrated with photos, posting. An outstanding example of the type of help this forum aspires to provide!!!

UNTIL you get this new plug/socket system (at a a cost of around $200) with 20 TIMES THE CONTACT AREA OF THE CONVENTIONAL TWISTLOCK CONNECTON (More contact area = less contact electrical resistance and resultant heating with electrical current flow), I think that just about the best thing you can do is use Caig DeOxIt contact cleaner/restorer spray on ALL power cord contact surfaces before plugging in. “”

Which DeOxIt do you recommend. There are a few different types...please and thank you

I use the standard Red Can D5. The new spray cans have an attached jointed nozzle tube that you don't lose. You can hunt around the internet for free shipping, no tax, lowest cost, but here is the amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G It's a little on the pricey side, but the best stuff out there (IMHO), and you really just need to use little spritzes, not wash stuff down.
 

Mrsfish

Well-known member
I use the standard Red Can D5. The new spray cans have an attached jointed nozzle tube that you don't lose. You can hunt around the internet for free shipping, no tax, lowest cost, but here is the amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G It's a little on the pricey side, but the best stuff out there (IMHO), and you really just need to use little spritzes, not wash stuff down.

Bill...thank you so much. And you’re right- this forum is invaluable.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Bill...thank you so much. And you’re right- this forum is invaluable.


Just an added note about using DeOxIt or any electrical contact cleaner. Part of the cleaning of oxidation layers and corrosion off of the metal contacts is to slide the metal contact surfaces against each other by connecting/disconnecting a few times before leaving the connection together. Caig, maker of DeOxIt recommends you spritz, work the connection about 5 times, spritz once more to rinse off any dislodged oxidation/corrosion, then make your final connection.

BTW, I use this on all sorts of electrical connections/switches around the truck/RV. 12 volt lighting wall switches (spray in the spaces between the rocker and the frame, then work the switch), trailer umbilical cord connections, clearance lamp bases, under steering wheel radio controlling switches. So many electrical things that weren't working reliably do after treatment.

On edit: Just one more thing on this whole topic (I hope I am not thread hijacking - too much). The whole RV site outlet/shorepower plug virus, mainly found at 30 amp site I believe starts with plugging in to the RV park outlet with their pedestal breaker turned ON, and unplugging from the RV park outlet with their pedestal breaker turned ON. Either of these two actions causes an electrical arc on the plug/socket contacts that can start the contact corrosion/heating deterioration cycle, messing up your plug in the process.
 
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sengli

Well-known member
Wow that looks like it was arching. Our recent visit to a state park, left the power post with a similar burnt red connection.
 

chiefneon

Well-known member
Howdy!

We are fulltimers also. Last year we had the same thing happen to us. We were in Moab and lost power. We could use the generator but no 50amp going into the 5er. Mobile RV repair replaced the transfer switch. A week later in Salt Lake City we lost power again. We found that when we lost power the first time it also burnt the power cord and the 50amp plug like yours did. Replaced both and was good to go. We use a Progressive EMS portable unit so unknown what caused the problems.

” Happy Trails “
Chiefneon
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Another strong vote for the SmartPlug upgrade. This product is worth every penny, as it is so much easier to use. Your connection is so much more secure, more electrical contact, and water-tight. We've had ours since February 2018.

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(Install of the recepticle.)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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