Norcold 2118

jleavitt11

retired Utah Chapter Leaders
I was wondering if anyone has found a residential fridge the correct size to replace the Norcold 2118. I have been searching online for a while without any luck.
 

MCTalley

Well-known member
I picked a couple random "counter depth" residential refrigerators and they we're both within a couple inches in width and height of the Norcold 2118. What you will find is that most residential counter depth refrigerators will show 27" deep with handles vs. the 24" deep Norcold. Typically, though, the extra 3-5" depth won't be an issue, though if your refrigerator currently sits very near anything else when the slide is retracted, you might have issues.
 

jleavitt11

retired Utah Chapter Leaders
What is going on with the 2118


The Fridge is working ok. Its just that when the temps are in the 90's or above is does not work very well. It get's down to about 42-45 in the afternoon when its the hottest. That's not bad but it is not very cold BEER! I just installed an 4000W inverter/solar system and I thought I would switch the fridge out to a residential and end the problem. The model that was posted was perfect but the thread was from 2015 and it was discontinued. I was able to find another made by Whirlpool that I think will work great. Model:WRS571CIHZ 20.6 CF.
 

carl.swoyer

Well-known member
What is going on with the 2118


The Fridge is working ok. Its just that when the temps are in the 90's or above is does not work very well. It get's down to about 42-45 in the afternoon when its the hottest. That's not bad but it is not very cold BEER! I just installed an 4000W inverter/solar system and I thought I would switch the fridge out to a residential and end the problem. The model that was posted was perfect but the thread was from 2015 and it was discontinued. I was able to find another made by Whirlpool that I think will work great. Model:WRS571CIHZ 20.6 CF.
I had the same problem.
Frig wasn't sensing temp.
Replacement for the circuit board. Fixed.
Second I had no cap on the flu. I installed a cap and removed the aluminum baffle and installed two computer fans. Fixed.
I just finished a 8512 mile road trip. Flawless cooling on setting 3&4.
You should at least pull the codes.
I'm home now and I leave it running on 2. This prevents the flu from rusting.
"Editing" forgot the thermistor was bad so I replaced it.
There's a conversion tho make your norcold 120 volts AC
J and C refrigeration ?

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Last edited:

Gary521

Well-known member
Most of these RV refrigerators have a problem in that they require the back of the units to have good air flow to cool off the coils. Have you tried to add addition fans to provide this airflow? A lot of us have added these fans and it helps a whole lot. You can get on youtube to see how many people have added these fans. It is a fairly simple thing to do and a lot cheaper, easier and faster that switching refrigerators. The stock cooling fans just are not sufficient along with the fact that the refrigerators are in slide outs that do not allow good air flow. These fans turn on and off by a thermostat that is attached to the coils. The added fans can also be controlled by these thermostats or by one that you can add.
 

jleavitt11

retired Utah Chapter Leaders
I think I will try adding a cooling fan and see if it helps. The cost is not much and it looks like it would be easy to do. Thanks
 

carl.swoyer

Well-known member
If you're putting the fans in I would remove the sheet of aluminum. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the two screws. Also make sure you have a cap on the flu/chimney. Mine was not installed and I found one from a local RV dealer.

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