Tire load class rating

Mallard m27 owners what load rating tires came on your camper? The m27 has a gvwr of 6900 lbs. what is everyone’s opinion of the load class tires that I should have? The tires are on 14” wheel. Thanks for any help.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Look at the plaque on the front of the trailer. Usually located on the off-door side. It tells you the required weight capacity of the tires.

Weight capacity within a load range can vary, so it's better to look at numbers.
 
The reason I am asking is the tires that came on camper is load rating “c” which with dual axles the 4 tires is 300 lbs more than the empty weight of the camper which is #5900. I have had a blow out and the tires were inflated properly. Took tire to tire shop and told me these tires shouldn’t be on my camper as they wasn’t rated enough and said I should contact Heartland. I did and the customer rep said the tires should have been a load rating of “e” and he would have to pull records on my camper to confirm that is what was put on my camper and then get with engineers and get back with me. They have not gotten back and I have even talked to a supervisor about it. Needless I am not very happy.
 

carl.swoyer

Well-known member
The reason I am asking is the tires that came on camper is load rating “c” which with dual axles the 4 tires is 300 lbs more than the empty weight of the camper which is #5900. I have had a blow out and the tires were inflated properly. Took tire to tire shop and told me these tires shouldn’t be on my camper as they wasn’t rated enough and said I should contact Heartland. I did and the customer rep said the tires should have been a load rating of “e” and he would have to pull records on my camper to confirm that is what was put on my camper and then get with engineers and get back with me. They have not gotten back and I have even talked to a supervisor about it. Needless I am not very happy.
If you spoke with warranty via telephone only I would suggest that you put it in writing and ask for the email to be forwarded to engineering. That's always been the quick response channel for me.

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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
I'm curious to the lug pattern on the Axel. How many lugs do you have. Load range c an load range e I think are different? If this is true, new Axel's to accommodate the load range e might be required? But you have a trailer that's max gvw is 6900 lb ÷ four tires . Each tires Max psi load range should be 1/4 of the gvw?
I've always run my load range e Goodyear's at 110 cold psi. However recently I have started with 100 cold psi so when the tires heat up I no longer exceed the 110 psi rating.


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danemayer

Well-known member
If you spoke with warranty via telephone only I would suggest that you put it in writing and ask for the email to be forwarded to engineering. That's always been the quick response channel for me.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Check the plaque before you get too wound up about being told you need LR E tires. They are used on MUCH heavier trailers than your 6,900 GVWR.

Take 15% off the 6,900 (weight on the hitch) and you have 5,865 lbs on the axles. Divided by 4 tires and you need a capacity of about 1,466 per tire. Load range C tires would deliver something in the range of 2,000 lbs of capacity which would provide a good margin.

Also, you probably have 14" rims. I don't know if you can even find LR E tires that go on 14" rims.

So look at the plaque to see what weight rating is required for each tire. Then look at the sidewall of the tire to see the weight rating. You'll probably find they are a match, in which case your tire shop guy could be regarded as unqualified to advise you.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
I'm curious to the lug pattern on the Axel. How many lugs do you have. Load range c an load range e I think are different? If this is true, new Axel's to accommodate the load range e might be required? But you have a trailer that's max gvw is 6900 lb ÷ four tires . Each tires Max psi load range should be 1/4 of the gvw?
I've always run my load range e Goodyear's at 110 cold psi. However recently I have started with 100 cold psi so when the tires heat up I no longer exceed the 110 psi rating.


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Tire manufactures design the tires to have, if required by weight, the maximum psi ambient temperature usually stated as cold temperature, listed on the sidewall. That will give you the maximum load carrying capacity of the tire. Look at the load inflation table for your tires. Increase pressure do to heating while driving is designed into the tire and will not hurt them. The worst thing you can do is reduce the pressure below the load carrying capacity to make sure that when warmed up do to traveling the pressure won't increase above the maximum psi stated on the sidewall.
 

RickL

Well-known member
Just to dovetail on the previous post, never, never, ever, reset your tire pressure after you have moved the vehicle/trailer. Even 5 miles can heat the tires increasing the temp, which in turns raises the pressure. Tire pressures should be checked and adjusted after sitting for at least 8 hrs (rule of thumb) so the inside temp matches the outside temperature.

Knowing your individual tire weights goes a long way in helping ensure you use the correct tire pressure to handle the weight. Never exceed the max pressure of the stated pressure on the tire. Make sure your gauge is checked against a calibrated master gauge (I just had one individual state his gauge was accurate but unfortunately it was 6 lbs off from mine and another persons. In some situations this 6 lbs can mean the difference between tire failure or safe operation). Lastly always set you tire pressures to the heaviest wheel position requirements.
 

LBR

Well-known member
Just to dovetail on the previous post, never, never, ever, reset your tire pressure after you have moved the vehicle/trailer. Even 5 miles can heat the tires increasing the temp, which in turns raises the pressure. Tire pressures should be checked and adjusted after sitting for at least 8 hrs (rule of thumb) so the inside temp matches the outside temperature.

Knowing your individual tire weights goes a long way in helping ensure you use the correct tire pressure to handle the weight. Never exceed the max pressure of the stated pressure on the tire. Make sure your gauge is checked against a calibrated master gauge (I just had one individual state his gauge was accurate but unfortunately it was 6 lbs off from mine and another persons. In some situations this 6 lbs can mean the difference between tire failure or safe operation). Lastly always set you tire pressures to the heaviest wheel position requirements.
To tag onto this, never set tire pressures with one side catching direct sunlight for any length of time while other side is fully shaded. I adjust critical tire pressures ASAP in the morning before the 2nd cup of coffee (1st cup is necessary for any functionability for me...lol.)
 

carl.swoyer

Well-known member
Tire manufactures design the tires to have, if required by weight, the maximum psi ambient temperature usually stated as cold temperature, listed on the sidewall. That will give you the maximum load carrying capacity of the tire. Look at the load inflation table for your tires. Increase pressure do to heating while driving is designed into the tire and will not hurt them. The worst thing you can do is reduce the pressure below the load carrying capacity to make sure that when warmed up do to traveling the pressure won't increase above the maximum psi stated on the sidewall.
Mlpeloqiun,
Your right.
While in Wyoming having my 7.5 year old g614 replaced I met a retired truck driver.
It was from his input I lowered the cold psi to 100.
He was suggesting the friction heat up problems ie. Over inflated while running down the road causes blowouts. My tpms would supporting that as I would see 120 +- PSI on the trailer.
Acceptable is 5 to 6 psi.
Not sure if I will keep cold psi at 100 psi just thought I would try it.
Until recent my cold was always 110 and checked and set in the am before the sun would hit the tires.
Knowing me I will probably go back to the 110.

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mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Mlpeloqiun,
Your right.
While in Wyoming having my 7.5 year old g614 replaced I met a retired truck driver.
It was from his input I lowered the cold psi to 100.
He was suggesting the friction heat up problems ie. Over inflated while running down the road causes blowouts. My tpms would supporting that as I would see 120 +- PSI on the trailer.
Acceptable is 5 to 6 psi.
Not sure if I will keep cold psi at 100 psi just thought I would try it.
Until recent my cold was always 110 and checked and set in the am before the sun would hit the tires.
Knowing me I will probably go back to the 110.

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You really need to know the weight on the tires. To much air will make the trailer bounce. Get it weighed and inflate 5 to 10 psi above the minimum required pressure according to the load inflation chart.

View attachment Good Year Load Inflation Chart.pdf
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
Mlpeloqiun,
Your right.
While in Wyoming having my 7.5 year old g614 replaced I met a retired truck driver.
It was from his input I lowered the cold psi to 100.
He was suggesting the friction heat up problems ie. Over inflated while running down the road causes blowouts. My tpms would supporting that as I would see 120 +- PSI on the trailer.
Acceptable is 5 to 6 psi.
Not sure if I will keep cold psi at 100 psi just thought I would try it.
Until recent my cold was always 110 and checked and set in the am before the sun would hit the tires.
Knowing me I will probably go back to the 110.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

On a 75-80 deg morning my tires will be at 95PSI. They peak out at 110 after the tire and day warms up. That's 15 lbs of increase in pressure. No problems. When I first got them I ran 110 but it beat the trailer. For my weight 95 is a good starting number.
 
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