2019 Torque 371 - Converter / Manual Reset Circuit Breaker location

cooperm

Member
New here.

I have a 2019 Torque 371. I am trying to actually find the Converter and the Manual Reset Circuit Breaker. I believe one of them is bad. I think I know roughly where the circuit breaker is because I can see the other Auto Reset Breakers. So it should be in that area. Just want to be sure.

Scenario
My Battery doesn't charge while it is plugged in to my 50 amp service. I can check the inside outlets and getting the 120v. I just installed a battery disconnect switch to eliminate any vampire drains on the battery. When I use the slides or the leveling jacks they move extremely slow. the generator even fails to start because the battery is low.

I have read over so many of the documents for the electrical system. Everything tells me it is one of these two items. Of course the warranty ran out in June so its on me to repair or pay Service department.

Thanks in advance.

Mark Cooper
 
Last edited:

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
It sounds like you are on the right track. The manual reset breaker should be on the row with the rest of the auto reset breakers.
You just need to feel the edges of the breakers to find the tiny reset button.

Peace
Dave
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Go to the tools section of the forum and look at the 12V section ,there should be a picture of the manual reset 50 amp breaker. thats more than likely your problem
 

danemayer

Well-known member
You can check whether the converter is working. In your control panel, the monitor that displays holding tank levels also shows the 12V DC level. When the converter is running, it shows 4 lights. With the converter circuit breaker (or all shore power) turned off, it'll display the battery reading. If it drops from 4 lights with shore power, to no lights without shore power, then the power converter is working, but you're not getting any power from the batteries. If that's the case, it's either a tripped mini-circuit breaker, or the battery cutoff switch is OFF, or your batteries are dead, or the negative battery terminal is not grounded.

Did these problems all start with installation of the battery cutoff switch?
 

cooperm

Member
Thanks guys. I will give it a shot. I have read through several of the user guides for the 12v stuff already.

I looked at everyone of the breakers in the group. I couldn't find any with a reset button. I do have a 80amp in the mix as well, just off to the side of the row. It started about 3 weeks ago when which is why I took it in to service. They said they checked all of the charging system, because I told them it was having an issue. They put the battery on the charger because they said it was dead. After they charged it they put a load on it and they said it was okay. I just installed the cutoff yesterday. So I am not so sure they tested everything very well. I called them back and they said it may be the converter but would have to have it back. If I can find it I will test it and change it myself if I can get to it.

Thank you for all the advice.
Mark
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
That reset button is very tiny and on the short end of a mini-breaker. Almost impossible to see, you have to feel for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

'Lil Guy'

Well-known member
That reset button is very tiny and on the short end of a mini-breaker. Almost impossible to see, you have to feel for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
IO've seen the pics before. If someone remembers where it is, they could repost it to show the breaker and reset button so they know what they're looking for. I remember the 1st time I tried to find it.
 

cooperm

Member
You can check whether the converter is working. In your control panel, the monitor that displays holding tank levels also shows the 12V DC level. When the converter is running, it shows 4 lights. With the converter circuit breaker (or all shore power) turned off, it'll display the battery reading. If it drops from 4 lights with shore power, to no lights without shore power, then the power converter is working, but you're not getting any power from the batteries. If that's the case, it's either a tripped mini-circuit breaker, or the battery cutoff switch is OFF, or your batteries are dead, or the negative battery terminal is not grounded.

Did these problems all start with installation of the battery cutoff switch?

Thank you I did this test today. tomorrow I will be taking the Fuse Panel out to get to the Converter. I checked the battery from the monitor inside. All the lights were lit up. I unplugged my 50 amp plug, and turned the disconnect on and all the lights were off on this test.

I checked the breaker that goes to the converter on the fuse panel and it was okay. Flipped it off and on just to make sure. No change.

So it sounds like the Converter.

Thank you for all your help!
Mark
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thank you I did this test today. tomorrow I will be taking the Fuse Panel out to get to the Converter. I checked the battery from the monitor inside. All the lights were lit up. I unplugged my 50 amp plug, and turned the disconnect on and all the lights were off on this test.

I checked the breaker that goes to the converter on the fuse panel and it was okay. Flipped it off and on just to make sure. No change.

So it sounds like the Converter.

Thank you for all your help!
Mark
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, I think you have it backwards. If the battery disconnect is OFF, any power for 12V is coming from the converter. So if the battery disconnect is OFF and you have lights on the panel, the power is coming from the converter.

By unplugging shore power and turning the disconnect ON, any 12V power is coming from the battery. So in that condition, with no lights, there's no power coming from the battery.

If you have a voltmeter, set it for DC voltage and read the voltage at the mini-circuit breaker. Look for the breaker that has thick wires on both sides. The side of the breaker that has a copper buss bar is the battery side. The other side is the converter side. With everything plugged in and turned on as you'd have it for normal operation, put your red meter lead on the battery side of the breaker, and the black lead on the negative terminal of the battery. You should read at least 13.2V DC. If not, move the red lead to the converter side of the breaker to see if you have at least 13.2V DC there.

If you have 13.2V or higher on the converter side, and less than 12.8V on the battery side, the breaker is tripped or broken.

If you're not sure about what's what on the mini-circuit breakers, remove the red rubber boots and take 2 clear pictures to post; one close, and another further away so it also shows the surrounding wires.
 

cooperm

Member
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, I think you have it backwards. If the battery disconnect is OFF, any power for 12V is coming from the converter. So if the battery disconnect is OFF and you have lights on the panel, the power is coming from the converter.

By unplugging shore power and turning the disconnect ON, any 12V power is coming from the battery. So in that condition, with no lights, there's no power coming from the battery.

If you have a voltmeter, set it for DC voltage and read the voltage at the mini-circuit breaker. Look for the breaker that has thick wires on both sides. The side of the breaker that has a copper buss bar is the battery side. The other side is the converter side. With everything plugged in and turned on as you'd have it for normal operation, put your red meter lead on the battery side of the breaker, and the black lead on the negative terminal of the battery. You should read at least 13.2V DC. If not, move the red lead to the converter side of the breaker to see if you have at least 13.2V DC there.

If you have 13.2V or higher on the converter side, and less than 12.8V on the battery side, the breaker is tripped or broken.

If you're not sure about what's what on the mini-circuit breakers, remove the red rubber boots and take 2 clear pictures to post; one close, and another further away so it also shows the surrounding wires.

I will use the volt meter on it tomorrow.

However to be clear. With no shore power I didn’t have any lights with the disconnect on or off. The only time they were lit up is when the shore power was plugged in. Is that what you meant?

Thanks
Mark
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I will use the volt meter on it tomorrow.

However to be clear. With no shore power I didn’t have any lights with the disconnect on or off. The only time they were lit up is when the shore power was plugged in. Is that what you meant?

Thanks
Mark

Yes. When shore power is ON, the Power Converter changes 120V AC into 12V DC (actually 13.2V most of the time). The test panel will normally show 4 lights while on shore power, reflecting the output of the Power Converter. It will do this even if the battery has been removed entirely.

The test panel shows voltage on the interior 12V DC wiring. It doesn't know whether that voltage is coming from the Power Converter, the battery, or even from the truck. It could be all three sources, or just one source.
 

cooperm

Member
Yes. When shore power is ON, the Power Converter changes 120V AC into 12V DC (actually 13.2V most of the time). The test panel will normally show 4 lights while on shore power, reflecting the output of the Power Converter. It will do this even if the battery has been removed entirely.

The test panel shows voltage on the interior 12V DC wiring. It doesn't know whether that voltage is coming from the Power Converter, the battery, or even from the truck. It could be all three sources, or just one source.

So sorry for all the questions.

So if I understand this correctly. While on shore power and the battery in the disconnected state and 4 lights on my meter the converter is good? Does that mean its may be the breaker instead?

Tanks,
Mark
 

danemayer

Well-known member
So sorry for all the questions.

So if I understand this correctly. While on shore power and the battery in the disconnected state and 4 lights on my meter the converter is good? Does that mean its may be the breaker instead?

Tanks,
Mark

Yes, the converter is good and you should measure voltage on the breaker as described earlier.
 

cooperm

Member
Yes, the converter is good and you should measure voltage on the breaker as described earlier.


Okay thank you. I will see if I can get some readings and may be a picture of it inside. Since I am unable to find the manual reset breaker, because I haven't been able to find any of the breakers with a reset button. Can I also check for continuity across each breaker if I remove the power from them?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
If you just want to check the breakers you can use your meter to check voltage.
One meter probe to ground then probe both sides of the breaker with the other. You should have the same voltage on both sides of the breaker.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Okay thank you. I will see if I can get some readings and may be a picture of it inside. Since I am unable to find the manual reset breaker, because I haven't been able to find any of the breakers with a reset button. Can I also check for continuity across each breaker if I remove the power from them?
Measuring continuity generally requires that the wire on at least one side be detached. Measure voltage exactly as described earlier.
 

cooperm

Member
Okay thank you. I will see if I can get some readings and may be a picture of it inside. Since I am unable to find the manual reset breaker, because I haven't been able to find any of the breakers with a reset button. Can I also check for continuity across each breaker if I remove the power from them?

Scenario:
On shore power, and battery disconnect in the off state. (To make sure Battery is supplying power to the strip)

  1. All breakers in the same row all show 12v on both sides. (Indicating they are not blown)
  2. The breaker below left with red and black wire show 12v on both sides. (Indicating it is not blown)
  3. The bottom one by itself with the 2 large red wires show 12v on the top, 0 for the bottom. That tells me its either bad or needs reset. Right?

Breakers.jpg

Thanks Dave.
You might have saved me several hundred dollars if that is correct.

Sincerely,
Mark
 

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  • Breakers.jpg
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cooperm

Member
#3 check that one for a reset button, it's most likely under the bottom wire.

I have it in hand. No reset button on it. Here it is both sides and ends. I found the replacement part on Amazon and it doesn't show a reset button. No continuity and also when I apply voltage from battery charger I don't get and voltage coming through.

breaker side two.jpgBreaker side one.jpg

Thanks,
Mark
 

LBR

Well-known member
I have it in hand. No reset button on it. Here it is both sides and ends. I found the replacement part on Amazon and it doesn't show a reset button. No continuity and also when I apply voltage from battery charger I don't get and voltage coming through.

View attachment 63250View attachment 63251

Thanks,
Mark
Our 2017 CY didn't have that resettable breaker neither. Most members here seem to think that all these Heartland trailers have that breaker with a manual reset, but not true.

Heck, I had the common problem with the hydraulic pump kicking out when deploying the leveling legs and found that circuit only had a 30A instead of a 50A from factory.
 
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