X chocks before or after unhitching

I just received 2 BAL X Chocks and in the box, it stated to place after unhitching/remove before hitching as well as using normal wheel wedge chocks. My plan is to use the large yellow chocks in the front and back on both sides, as well as the x chocks. My camper is the 26BRLS Northtrail and it has the large axle spread, so I had to get the larger style of BAL X chocks. Is there a specific reason to place the X chocks after unhitching the truck from the RV?
Thanks

B...

Mainly because they restrict any tire movement. Tires that cannot move with other adjustments can put stress on other parts of the rig.

Generally the last thing I did was X chocks and the first thing when getting ready to tear down was X chocks.

Just make sure you chock before unhitching and leave them until hitched.

I watched a newbie last year back into a spot next to us with his brand new BP. It was easy to see this was his first rodeo. The spots we were in had about a 6-8 degree slope down to the lake about 100 yds away. Rear end to lake. When I saw he didn't put down chocks I wandered over and introduced myself. I gently pointed out if he didn't want to pull his trailer out of the lake he should chock the tires. Turns out the dealer had provided him everything he needed but evidently not much instruction. After chocking all 4 tires properly I helped him get setup. To level it he had to lower the jack all the way to the ground and then he didn't have enough blocks for the rear jacks to work. I loaned him some 6x8 blocks and he got it leveled and all hooked up. Turns out they only lived a couple of miles away and were driveway camping at the park. They went home for the night (Fri) and picked up all the things they forgot. The next night they spent it in their new trailer. A very nice young couple starting out camping and having a ball. Wished them luck.

I chock before unhitching not wanting to just rely on the front landing gear holding the trailer in place. I use the yellow plastic screw chocks and have found that after unhitching and levelling the trailer front to back that the chocks are often now loose. I re-tighten them after levelling, but find I need to loosen them to just grabbing tightness before raising the pinbox for hitching, or they will be super tight when I loosen them before departure. I have had to use a pipe wrench on the threaded rods when I forget to pre-loosen them.

As soon as we stop, I chock the trailer first. Then I get back in the truck, put it in neutral, and then take my foot off the brake.

This lets the trailer “settle” onto the chocks before I unhook. Sometimes the trailer moves a few inches, sometimes not at all.

And of course if the chocks don’t hold the trailer I can use the truck brakes to stop it.

Another one of those RV accessories you think you need, but you really don't need when you are new to RVing. I used mine for about the first month of using my rig and then gave them away. How many times do you need to chock your wheels?

As others have said, I put my x-chocks in place before disconnecting from my truck. It's a routine, regardless of slope - if you do it EVERY time, you won't forget. There's a secondary reason for using the chocks... they help eliminate wiggle inside the trailer. When the tires are locked in place, it dampens the movement.

On my previous rig (Road Warrior twin axle toyhauler), my Goodyear G614 tires would be warm when we arrived at a campsite. After putting the tire chocks in place, I'd have to re-tighten them as the tires cooled (rubber contracts).

Another lesson I've learned over the years - don't do your "tug test" with your x-chocks still installed. They tend to dig in and become difficult to remove. Instead, once you've connected to the truck, remove the chocks and rely exclusively on the trailer brakes. May sound obvious... but it's a lesson you only have to learn once!

With old coach, we used Roto-Chocks (much like X-chocks), sadly no longer in business. After we got leveled side to side, they were the 1st things on and last things off. Re-tighten few hours after tires cool down. Contrary to some other posts, when I hooked up, did a lil tug test while chocks were still in place. Never had a problem removing them. New coach and 6pt, it seems all the sites we've been to have been quite level, so just a small 2x4 behind front tire and in front of rear tire (same side), lower front legs, un-hook and hit auto level.

Piperflyer said:

Another one of those RV accessories you think you need, but you really don't need when you are new to RVing. I used mine for about the first month of using my rig and then gave them away. How many times do you need to chock your wheels?

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I guess everybody else stays at KOA sites with level paved RV sites. In the past 6 months I have had many 3 week stays at Thousand Trails Oakzanita Springs Resort 40 miles East of San Diego in the San Jacinto Mountains at about 3500 feet elevation. None of the sites are paved, and most have steep inclines gaining 5 feet or more before you are in the flatter part of the space. I about burned out my torque converter trying to back uphill into these spaces. If you don't use chocks, you have a strong chance of your trailer moving. I can't afford to buy another trailer. I am not going to that park any more.

I once stayed in a narrow hillside California state park space overlooking the lake at New Hogan Reservoir. The downhill curving site driveway on the side of a hill, the hill going down to the water, was a big challenge to back into with a 38 foot 5th wheel, and after levelling front to back, the bottom under my front storage compartment was less than a foot off the ground. The space was that unlevel front-to-back.

I use regular rubber wheel chocks. Since having the Bighorn and now Landmark I seldom use X-chocks. One site a music festival in a feld with downward slope and a lot of lumber I used them for piece of mind,

We were looking for a smaller profile leveling option for our pop-up trailer and this wheel chock from Andersen Hitches amazingly well. Very sturdy and really easy to use. No need to keep adding and taking away those "lego" blocks. Just drop it down behind the wheel and back up as far as you need to go to reach level.