Another water pump ?

Routemaster

Well-known member
We have had weather in the teen's and now the strainer and pump leak can one insulate the pump or would it get to warm?
Thanks Den.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
I agree with Dan's suggestion. In my youth, we had and outdoor water pump in a pit to service the house. We just put a small light bulb in the pit and it never froze.
 

Routemaster

Well-known member
I bought Shurflo 4008-101-A65 RV Revolution by-pass pump. Is the wiring in 365 ok for this pump would it need a relay for switching on/off. And it say's no need for a accumulator I have one would it help to install?
Den.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I bought Shurflo 4008-101-A65 RV Revolution by-pass pump. Is the wiring in 365 ok for this pump would it need a relay for switching on/off. And it say's no need for a accumulator I have one would it help to install?
Den.

The new pump runs on 12V DC, and I'm pretty sure your old one also ran on 12V DC. The pumps are 12V DC so you can use them when not hooked up to shore power. Usually there are 2 wires going to the old pump and you simply move them to the wires on the new pump. There are probably 2 wirenuts joining the pump wires to the trailer wires. If both old and new pumps have 1 red wire and 1 black wire, hook the new pump up the same way to maintain polarity.

The accumulator is a personal choice based on performance. If you already have one installed and you're happy with it, I'd keep it. If not, try out the new pump before deciding.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Looks like a max current draw of 7.5 amps. Should be fine using the OEM wires for this pump.

The only time I've used relays for water pumps was when I went with dual massive pumps in my last Landmark. In that case, I used the OEM wires to trigger the relay and ran some much heavier wire from the battery to the relay and to the pump.
 

Routemaster

Well-known member
Ok thanks. Now the hand book says for a inline fuse but not seeing what amperage?, also if the psi of the pump is 55psi should I set the psi on the accumulator that the 55psi? A nothing thing where should the Anderson switch be so I can work on the pump and not loosing the city water?
Thanks.
Den.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
If your LM 365 has the KIB Multi-Plex Control Panel, the fuse is probably on the KIB control board. If your unit was built prior to October 2016, you may not have the KIB, in which case there could be an inline fuse, or perhaps a fuse in the main fuse box, or both.

The leads on pumps are usually only 6-8 inches. If you don't see an inline fuse on the old pump wires, don't worry about it.

For the accumulator, no idea.

For the Anderson Valve, if you want the pump to draw water from the fresh tank, you set the 4-way selector to NORMAL. In this position, a secondary channel inside the valve may allow city water to also flow to fixtures. If you leave the 4-way selector on CITY, you may still be able to have the pump draw water from the fresh tank by way of the secondary channel inside the valve.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Accumulator tanks often come pre-charged. From Pentair (ShurFlo):
The most efficient use of the accumulator occurs with the pre-charge set at the SAME pressure as the pump’s pressure switch “turn on” setting. Typically, a 45psi [3 bar] pump will turn on around 30psi [2.07 bar]. Therefore, the pre-charge should also be 30 psi [2.07 bar]. Thevpre-charge MUST be set in a “static” condition (pump off and at least one water fixture opened).
LINK

Dan is spot on, on the fusing for the pump. If you know where the KIB system relay boards are, on those boards, you'll find fuses (at least my last Landmark was this way). One of the fuses will be for the pump. It's okay to add another fuse, inline at the pump if you desire. This is handing for servicing. I'd pop a 15A in there unless otherwise specified by the pump manual.
 
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