Waste gate

Niles

Well-known member
Does anyone have a picture of the black tank valve location on a 3670 rl. I know I will have to bring the belly down just don't want to cut anymore than I have too. Think my cable came loose, I'm hoping it's that simple
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
No photo, but it’s between the outside water heater and furnace panels, about 3 feet from the side wall. The tank is under the main floor, so the valve is about3 feet off the ground. If you pull the basement wall section attached to the UDC, you can actually see it, but not reach it.


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danemayer

Well-known member
In the corner of the drop frame closest to the sewer outlet, remove 3 or 4 of the coroplast mounting screws on each side of the corner. That'll let you see exactly where the valve is located. You may even be able to reconnect the cable without cutting the coroplast.

It's easier to remove those screws with an impact wrench rather than a ratcheting socket wrench and less like to tear off the head of the screw.
 

Niles

Well-known member
Ok got some idea where to start, thanks. I've had that section down before just can't remember seeing that valve. I really hate getting into the belly of the beast.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Ok got some idea where to start, thanks. I've had that section down before just can't remember seeing that valve. I really hate getting into the belly of the beast.

Maybe this photo from my BH3670 will give you some direction. In it you can see two tanks. The top one, directly under the extension of the main floor is the black tank. Below it and slightly forward is the Gray #2 (lavatory) tank. From below, you can access the black tank valve, but it's going to be a reach. As I mentioned, if you could see through the side wall, the valve would be between the furnace (rear) and the water heater tank.
 

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Niles

Well-known member
Thanks for the picture,JohnDar, I was hoping when I posted you would respond. I knew you have done a lot to your 3670. Now I'm off to try and get re done. Just gotta love jobs like this!
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Had to get on my laptop for the photo. Fortunately, I haven’t had a waste valve problem with mine.


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Niles

Well-known member
Just a update, JohnDar you're spot on. Was able to manually get it to dump, now to replace it. Looks like I have to saw it out and get pvc pipe to fix it back, I won't wish this job on anyone. I understand $100 rates at the shop. I'm about $400 into and too cheap to pay myself.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Just a update, JohnDar you're spot on. Was able to manually get it to dump, now to replace it. Looks like I have to saw it out and get pvc pipe to fix it back, I won't wish this job on anyone. I understand $100 rates at the shop. I'm about $400 into and too cheap to pay myself.

Niles, have you tried searching the forum for repairing the valve? Seems that you could partially disassemble it without cutting any of the piping to fix the cable system or the valve blade. Just be sure the tank has been flushed really good and "lean" the rig low on the door side.

Maybe this from the Tools section might help.

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org...ting Cable Operated Tank Valves BH 3260EL.pdf
 

Niles

Well-known member
Didn't cut any pipes,getting the valve out is a bear. forced the connection back into the tank and will still need a little more room to get the new valve seated. Hoping I can use a racket strap and pull it open a little more without hearing that dreaded snap. FUN FUN
 

DonM

Member
Does anyone know what brand this valve is? Mine is leaking by and I would like to have the replacement before tearing it apart.

Thanks
 
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