Wiring specifics for Go Power IC 2000

I just mounted a Go Power IC 2000 inverter near my transfer switch in the basement area. Go Power paper manual wiring diagram and also online diagrams and verbiage seem to conflict a lot. I want to have the setup - shore power-transfer switch-main panel-inverter-sub panel. What concerns me is, how to have exiting power from the main panel to inverter. Best I can figure, that would require jamming two #6 AWG wires into each main circuit in the main panel. One coming in from transfer switch, one to inverter. I'm not an electrician, but that doesn't sound like a good idea.

I could also power every device in my rig (including AC's, bad idea) while in inverter mode if I wire it as their option 2, which is - shore power-transfer switch-inverter-sub panel. I would just need to make sure to always make sure my AC's are off before unplugging from shore power.

I have a 2021 Cyclone 4007.

Anybody have experience with this?

A couple of things to be aware of.

I don't think you want to have the OEM Power Converter charging the batteries along with the Go Power because you'd have a circular power arrangement when on battery power, with losses due to the equipment inefficiencies. So you may have to unplug the OEM Power Converter and rely on the Go Power Charger.

Your Cyclone has a Precision Circuits energy management system (PCS). If you have the Go Power output going to the main circuit breaker panel, you'll have to manually set the PCS to 15 amps so it knows how much power is available while on batteries. The 2000 watt Go Power delivers about 16 amps. The PCS probably won't help you much in managing power consumption while on battery power, but things could get interesting if you leave the water heater on 120V AC operation, or try to use a washer/dryer, or fireplace.

Thanks for your reply danemayor.

Yes, I will be removing the OEM converter.

At this point I am planning to skip the main panel and have the inverter go to the sub-panel, which is Go Power's option 2. I wasn't aware of the potential effect on the PCS. Will wiring the inverter to sub-panel alleviate that concern?

We opted for no washer/dryer. The water heater and fridge will always be on LP when boondocking. The AC off unless running the generator.

This is a bad drawing of my system. Mine runs the entire RV you just have to make sure the 3 ACs are off. I run 2 transfer switches side by side.


Jerrod





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PolyMenders said:

At this point I am planning to skip the main panel and have the inverter go to the sub-panel, which is Go Power's option 2. I wasn't aware of the potential effect on the PCS. Will wiring the inverter to sub-panel alleviate that concern?

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If you route the Go Power to the sub-panel, and the loads in the sub-panel are not any of those managed by the PCS, using a sub-panel should be straightforward. I believe the PCS manages 120V AC usage of the 3 air conditioners, washer/dryer outlet, fireplace, water heater, and microwave.

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn said:

Do you have the Onan 5500 installed ?

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Yes, I have the Onan 5500.

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danemayer said:

If you route the Go Power to the sub-panel, and the loads in the sub-panel are not any of those managed by the PCS, using a sub-panel should be straightforward. I believe the PCS manages 120V AC usage of the 3 air conditioners, washer/dryer outlet, fireplace, water heater, and microwave.

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None of those items would be used while boondocking, except possibly the microwave. What would happen if the microwave would be used?

I also don't have any usable location within Go Power's preferred 10' between Inverter and batteries. My round trip would be just under 20'. Am I correct that stepping up to #4 AWG for that distance would be safe? Would the ground then need to be #4 as well?

Thanks
Ron

I sent you a reply to your email request for help (to my RV With The Tanner's account)

Did you get that? I gave you all the information on how to wire/install the IC2000. I've had mine in for just over 3 years now...never one issue.

PolyMenders said:

Yes, I have the Onan 5500.

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None of those items would be used while boondocking, except possibly the microwave. What would happen if the microwave would be used?

I also don't have any usable location within Go Power's preferred 10' between Inverter and batteries. My round trip would be just under 20'. Am I correct that stepping up to #4 AWG for that distance would be safe? Would the ground then need to be #4 as well?

Thanks
Ron

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Assuming a sub-panel, you'd have to move the microwave breaker to the sub-panel. I think there's a relay in the main breaker panel so the PCS can cut power to the microwave, so you'd have to move that connection as well, or the microwave powered through the sub-panel would not be managed by the PCS.

On length of wire run, there's probably someone with a similar arrangement who can speak to length of run/wire size/power loss.

Oregon_Camper said:

I sent you a reply to your email request for help (to my RV With The Tanner's account)

Did you get that? I gave you all the information on how to wire/install the IC2000. I've had mine in for just over 3 years now...never one issue.

View attachment 64647

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I did, thank you for that. I'm just a bit annoyed with Go Power overall, in regard to the many different versions of the exact same "options" they have. The printed manual conflicts within itself, the online info conflicts within itself, and they conflict with each other. This leaves me scratching my head wondering what is actually the best way to wire this in.
Your setup is a bit different than mine, as you have solar - I have a generator and transfer switch, but I don't think I'll need the post battery items with our setup.

PolyMenders said:

I did, thank you for that. I'm just a bit annoyed with Go Power overall, in regard to the many different versions of the exact same "options" they have. The printed manual conflicts within itself, the online info conflicts within itself, and they conflict with each other. This leaves me scratching my head wondering what is actually the best way to wire this in.
Your setup is a bit different than mine, as you have solar - I have a generator and transfer switch, but I don't think I'll need the post battery items with our setup.

Click to expand...

Simply wire the IC2000 after your existing transfer switch (new wire), and connect the wire that was on your output from existing transfer switch to the output of the IC2000 . Then connect battery bank to IC2000.

From there, the batteries can either create AC power to entire RV or be charged if you're on Shore/Generator power. You can wire in a sub-panel, but there is no need. Simply turn off the converter function of the IC2000, when you're on inverter mode.

Your prior converter will no longer be needed. Remove or simply unplug it.

Oregon_Camper said:

Simply wire the IC2000 after your existing transfer switch (new wire), and connect the wire that was on your output from existing transfer switch to the output of the IC2000 . Then connect battery bank to IC2000.

From there, the batteries can either create AC power to entire RV or be charged if you're on Shore/Generator power. You can wire in a sub-panel, but there is no need. Simply turn off the converter function of the IC2000, when you're on inverter mode.

Your prior converter will no longer be needed. Remove or simply unplug it.

Click to expand...

That's the plan, thanks. I've decided to mount the inverter in a far less ideal location, since it would exceed (double) Go Power's recommended distance from the batteries. Rather than trying to figure out the proper wire gauge for that length and fuse block requirements. I already ordered the 300A fuse block, which I don't think would be adequate at my desired location.

Thanks
Ron