Drain Wye + Parts

6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
Hey everyone! Back for more help. The 1.5" line is leaking right where it connects to the drain Wye.

Can someone point me to the right parts to source? 3 inch on the left side, 1.5" on the right.

I gotta replace the tank valves as well so I can get rid of that temp dump valve. So I'll be doing that all at the same time. Not looking forward to it, but it must be done lol.

Thank you in advance!
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hoefler

Well-known member
Go to a plumbing supply store. You don't have to have ABS fittings, SCH 40 PVC will work and is the same dimensions, you do have to use Universal glue in the Red lable can.
 

Flick

Well-known member
Hey everyone! Back for more help. The 1.5" line is leaking right where it connects to the drain Wye.

Can someone point me to the right parts to source? 3 inch on the left side, 1.5" on the right.

I gotta replace the tank valves as well so I can get rid of that temp dump valve. So I'll be doing that all at the same time. Not looking forward to it, but it must be done lol.

Thank you in advance!
3dfbfa7dcba75bde93854179d381e63b.jpg


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Getting the pvc locally is a good suggestion because abs is difficult to ship in the 10’ lengths. If you can’t find the correct fittings and other necessary parts locally, you can go to a supplier like T-J Trailers and they have it all. After completing, you can paint the pvc with black stove pipe paint which really sticks well. Just rough up the pvc first.
 

6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
Thank you! I'll expand my search to the sch40. I think Lowe's and Home Depot is about all we got out here, but I was focused looking for the black stuff, so I probably missed the fittings.

Actually, I'll be up on Albuquerque today, so I may be able to find the stuff up there.

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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
Hey everyone! Back for more help. The 1.5" line is leaking right where it connects to the drain Wye.

Can someone point me to the right parts to source? 3 inch on the left side, 1.5" on the right.

I gotta replace the tank valves as well so I can get rid of that temp dump valve. So I'll be doing that all at the same time. Not looking forward to it, but it must be done lol.

Thank you in advance!
3dfbfa7dcba75bde93854179d381e63b.jpg


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Keep the y.
Cut the smaller pipe and use a rubber coupler from lowes or home Depot. While you're at it keep the gate valve but take it apart and clean it up.
Use plumber lube to lubricant it, it's waterproof.
The gate valve is going to save the mess from above if one we're to leak. Sometimes you remove the cap and out comes the mess.

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6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
That's a brilliant idea! Much easier as well. Since I haven't been able to make any headway yet, I'll do as you suggested and add another strap hanger or two.

Good point on keeping the lower valve. I'll see what I need to do to revive the other tank valves as I'm not too fond of water leaking into those lower pipes while traveling.

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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
That's a brilliant idea! Much easier as well. Since I haven't been able to make any headway yet, I'll do as you suggested and add another strap hanger or two.

Good point on keeping the lower valve. I'll see what I need to do to revive the other tank valves as I'm not too fond of water leaking into those lower pipes while traveling.

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I was able to cut the old pipe out from the y. Used a 1/4" chisel. I had to cut a notch then started chiselling. Sanded it smooth and reglued .

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6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
I was able to cut the old pipe out from the y. Used a 1/4" chisel. I had to cut a notch then started chiselling. Sanded it smooth and reglued .

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That's really not a bad idea. Heck of a lot easier than tearing it all apart and refitting it all. I just so happen to have a chisel set as well.

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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
That's really not a bad idea. Heck of a lot easier than tearing it all apart and refitting it all. I just so happen to have a chisel set as well.

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If you look closely at the first picture you will see a small cut out ( done with a hack saw blade). This allows you to separate the the rest. Sand the old glue smooth.
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SLO

Well-known member
If you look closely at the first picture you will see a small cut out ( done with a hack saw blade). This allows you to separate the the rest. Sand the old glue smooth.
9b69007fd0c698ca714bc065c5bd994f.jpg
8a565cf0235b44cd3777d2118ba221eb.jpg


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Just curious. If you cut that double elbow off trailer. Why did you go to the trouble of removing old pipe in stead of just getting all new parts?


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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
Just curious. If you cut that double elbow off trailer. Why did you go to the trouble of removing old pipe in stead of just getting all new parts?


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Couldn't get the parts local. Not 1 rv store had parts available.
Could not but 1 foot of pipe had to buy 8 foot.

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SLO

Well-known member
Couldn't get the parts local. Not 1 rv store had parts available.
Could not but 1 foot of pipe had to buy 8 foot.

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Very good job at making something work then. The way you did that is exactly the way I’ve done it many times on home plumbing. When pipes could not be removed.


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6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
Thanks for all the tips! I ended up not buying parts online (except valve seals, ordering today). The only thing the local RV shop had in stock was a 3 inch slip on adapter to glue the exterior drain valve to the PVC. I tried to chip away the 1.5" side, but the plastic was too weak, so I just cut everything off.

Except for the seals, Lowe's ended up having everything needed to replace the exterior drain connections.

Purchased a 2 foot length each of 1.5" and 3" sch40 PVC.

3"x3" cleanout - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-...edule-40-Hub-Cleanout-Adapter-Fitting/3132649

3"-to-1.5" bushing - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-...edule-40-Spigot-Flush-Bushing-Fitting/3357818

1.5" coupling - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-...edule-40-Hub-Repair-Coupling-Fitting/50053709

Once it was all together, I sprayed it with some black paint. Looks new and blends in very well.

Now I just need to replace the valve seals hidden somewhere under the belly.

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NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Late w/ this reply but you could have tried JB Weld. I've had decent/good luck w/ it. As for the temp valve at end of sewer pie, keep it on as the valves for each tank don't close 100% hence the leakage when end cap is removed. Installed one on old coach as well as on new one. IMO, better to safe than sorry as the black tank valve was the one that usually leaked.
 
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