New Cyclone 4115 Floor Leveling Issue?

crwdavis

Member
Good evening all,

Just took delivery of our new 4115, and after 5 nights in it we are having a heck of a time leveling the RV. Today I realized that the bedroom floor, bathroom floor, upper stair hallway to the bedroom and the main floor are all out of plumb with one another. Tomorrow I will purchase a digital level to see exactly what we our out, but I am expecting in and around <1 degree mark.

Also curious on what Heartland's standard is when it comes to this type of dimensional variances, being a Quality Control Professional myself, I am quite keen to ensuring something like this is perfect.

Curious if anyone else has had this issue?

Prior to our new Cyclone HD we had a 2008 Big Country 3490 BHS and never had an issue like we have with this new unit. One other issue that we are seeing after the first few days is the floor squeaks every time someone walks in front of the couch in the main living area. I am assuming we have a loose, or a few loose screws in our subfloor.
 

LBR

Well-known member
Good evening all,

Just took delivery of our new 4115, and after 5 nights in it we are having a heck of a time leveling the RV. Today I realized that the bedroom floor, bathroom floor, upper stair hallway to the bedroom and the main floor are all out of plumb with one another. Tomorrow I will purchase a digital level to see exactly what we our out, but I am expecting in and around <1 degree mark.

Also curious on what Heartland's standard is when it comes to this type of dimensional variances, being a Quality Control Professional myself, I am quite keen to ensuring something like this is perfect.

Curious if anyone else has had this issue?

Prior to our new Cyclone HD we had a 2008 Big Country 3490 BHS and never had an issue like we have with this new unit. One other issue that we are seeing after the first few days is the floor squeaks every time someone walks in front of the couch in the main living area. I am assuming we have a loose, or a few loose screws in our subfloor.

One must try to leave their CDO (OCD with letters in proper alphabetical sequence) thought process at their S&B, and don't apply it when RVing. "Perfect" does not, and will not, exist.

You have to decide what you want level, adjust your levelers to set it level, then recalibrate the level-up system should you wish automatic leveling.....otherwise manual level-uping works just as well with the level-up readings.

Some use a level on outside features, inside floors, or on the kitchen stovetop. Every leveling attempt may differ from another...so apply paragraph one above. If you have a larger steel ball bearing available, clean the flat surface of choice (floor, countertop) and level your rig using it.

If your kitchen counter is close to that squeeky couch area, have someone else push down/lift up on the countertop while walking past and see if it quits (like ours did). If so, adjust it accordingly to eliminate "squeeky".
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Just took delivery of our new 4115, and after 5 nights in it we are having a heck of a time leveling the RV. Today I realized that the bedroom floor, bathroom floor, upper stair hallway to the bedroom and the main floor are all out of plumb with one another. Tomorrow I will purchase a digital level to see exactly what we our out, but I am expecting in and around <1 degree mark.

Can you help us understand what you mean by "having a heck of a time leveling the RV"?
 

Flick

Well-known member
One must try to leave their CDO (OCD with letters in proper alphabetical sequence) thought process at their S&B, and don't apply it when RVing. "Perfect" does not, and will not, exist.

You have to decide what you want level, adjust your levelers to set it level, then recalibrate the level-up system should you wish automatic leveling.....otherwise manual level-uping works just as well with the level-up readings.

Some use a level on outside features, inside floors, or on the kitchen stovetop. Every leveling attempt may differ from another...so apply paragraph one above. If you have a larger steel ball bearing available, clean the flat surface of choice (floor, countertop) and level your rig using it.

If your kitchen counter is close to that squeeky couch area, have someone else push down/lift up on the countertop while walking past and see if it quits (like ours did). If so, adjust it accordingly to eliminate "squeeky".

Ditto to the above. Our unit is considered level if our walk thru doors either stay open or don’t shut on their own. Im not concerned with out of plumb walls or a ball bearing that rolls of the kitchen counter. It’s an rv that pitches to and fro and rattles and rolls down the highway. Enjoy and give it some time to totally settle.
 

crwdavis

Member
Can you help us understand what you mean by "having a heck of a time leveling the RV"?

The issue is not leveling the RV, it is once we are level the interior floors are not paralleled with one another. If we level to the main floor then the bedroom floor is sloped downward roughly a degree, and because of the orientation of the bed this greats a head low position, which is less then ideal for sleeping. If we level the bedroom floor then we are constantly walkding up hill when you walk towards the front of the RV.

- - - Updated - - -

One must try to leave their CDO (OCD with letters in proper alphabetical sequence) thought process at their S&B, and don't apply it when RVing. "Perfect" does not, and will not, exist.

You have to decide what you want level, adjust your levelers to set it level, then recalibrate the level-up system should you wish automatic leveling.....otherwise manual level-uping works just as well with the level-up readings.

Some use a level on outside features, inside floors, or on the kitchen stovetop. Every leveling attempt may differ from another...so apply paragraph one above. If you have a larger steel ball bearing available, clean the flat surface of choice (floor, countertop) and level your rig using it.

If your kitchen counter is close to that squeeky couch area, have someone else push down/lift up on the countertop while walking past and see if it quits (like ours did). If so, adjust it accordingly to eliminate "squeeky".


I disagree with your philosophy. We spent over $xxx on this so called "Luxury" fifth wheel, the least I expect is the have all floors level and parallel with one another. I understand how to level the RV, the issue is not with the jacks, it is the workmanship inside on the subfloor or the structure itself. Right now we have to choose to either level the bedroom so we don't sleep with our head below our feet, which creates an extremely uncomfortable rest, or level the main living room floor so we are not walking uphill constantly. If the bedroom is level then the bath tube doesn't drain 100%. Hopefully this explanation clears up any confusion that I may have caused trying to explain it yesterday.

The squeakiness is the subfloor under the lament, the floor around the counters is perfectly good.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

LBR

Well-known member
The issue is not leveling the RV, it is once we are level the interior floors are not paralleled with one another. If we level to the main floor then the bedroom floor is sloped downward roughly a degree, and because of the orientation of the bed this greats a head low position, which is less then ideal for sleeping. If we level the bedroom floor then we are constantly walkding up hill when you walk towards the front of the RV.

- - - Updated - - -




I disagree with your philosophy. We spent over $xxxx on this so called "Luxury" fifth wheel, the least I expect is the have all floors level and parallel with one another. I understand how to level the RV, the issue is not with the jacks, it is the workmanship inside on the subfloor or the structure itself. Right now we have to choose to either level the bedroom so we don't sleep with our head below our feet, which creates an extremely uncomfortable rest, or level the main living room floor so we are not walking uphill constantly. If the bedroom is level then the bath tube doesn't drain 100%. Hopefully this explanation clears up any confusion that I may have caused trying to explain it yesterday.

The squeakiness is the subfloor under the lament, the floor around the counters is perfectly good.

It's all good to disagree with one's philosophy...no harm was intended...just trying to help.

BTW, I (and probably 98% of the site members in.the.know reading this) will disagree with your philosophy of paying over $xxxxon your trailer.....was your trailer's original MSRP really at $xxxx or higher? WOW!

Armed with the knowledge of letting salesmen know you will walk away from any discount less than 30% off MSRP, you should have been under $xxxx, depending on how optioned out it is.

Glad you're on the site and have fun in your new trailer...they are so cool....
 
Last edited by a moderator:

crwdavis

Member
It's all good to disagree with one's philosophy...no harm was intended...just trying to help.

BTW, I (and probably 98% of the site members in.the.know reading this) will disagree with your philosophy of paying over $xxxxon your trailer.....was your trailer's original MSRP really at $xxxx or higher? WOW!

Armed with the knowledge of letting salesmen know you will walk away from any discount less than 30% off MSRP, you should have been under $xxxx, depending on how optioned out it is.

Glad you're on the site and have fun in your new trailer...they are so cool....

I should have specified my currency is CAD. The MSRP is $xxxx CAD and we paid $xxxx CAD + taxes.

When I am investing $xxxxxk on a piece of recreational equipment I expect tolerances to be somewhat tight, not loosey goosey. That is my philosophy, I don't feel that anyone needs to settle and sacrifice the feeling of being comfortable in ones own so called "luxury" RV.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

danemayer

Well-known member
The flooring should be a uniform thickness from side-to-side. On a floor plan with raised bedroom, the bedroom floor sits on the upper frame. The living room sits on the main frame. Could the frame have some kind of offset? One thought: if you have something wrong with the suspension, the main frame could be off-level, producing some frame twist that shows up as a different side-to-side in the flooring in front compared to the rear.

Check the springs for anything broken or out of place. Also check the equalizers and shackle links. If one is flipped, that might do it.
 
Top