Hi from Quartzsite 2020.

Txzimmer1

Member
Pull on the tabs that are anchored to the screen frame. Pull away from the window frame towards the centerline of the window.
Have nothing on the screen itself. There is a track kind of inside of a track on the bottom. I don't know how to take a picture to show you.
Are the tabs inside or outside! I'm not seeing anything?
 
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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Look in Phoenix for a truck bed topper...

You might have better luck there for used ones.

I've been looking for one around Yuma and can't find any used ones to fit my Chevy, and can't order them new right now because of the Covid.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Look in Phoenix for a truck bed topper...

You might have better luck there for used ones.

I've been looking for one around Yuma and can't find any used ones to fit my Chevy, and can't order them new right now because of the Covid.

Sometimes you can have some luck by searching Craigslist (use the search bar), and searching various local Craigslist venues like Phoenix, Imperial County, Las Vegas, Mojave, et cetera.

On Edit: Here is a link to a Craigslist San Diego site I did on "Truck Bed Cover" this morning:
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/d/for-sale/search/sss?query=truck bed cover&sort=rel
 
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Txzimmer1

Member
Look in Phoenix for a truck bed topper...

You might have better luck there for used ones.

I've been looking for one around Yuma and can't find any used ones to fit my Chevy, and can't order them new right now because of the Covid.
Thank you.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
To answer the screen problem, you pull them in towards the center. If the screens are in as from the factory, you pull to the left. If they are really stuck with dust/dirt buildup, you may need to use something like Simple Green to loosen it up. If it is grease from cooking, use 409. The screens have springs on one end that need to be compressed.
 

Txzimmer1

Member
Never did get the screens out. Found a topper have a appointment in lake Havasu next week they're going to install the generator too in back of truck. Im gonna use a baby winch to move it in and out of the back of the truck because I can't lift it. Newest problem is furnace won't work. Started with blower working no heat. RV mobile mechanic replaced sails thing and circuit board. Now Furnace works but won't turn off and on. Thermostat good he says. Question do wires go to the AC unit control panel and back? This is just my question because it's being suggested it's a wiring issue in the ceiling. Ugh! I don't see anything telling me that might be the cause, but I don't know these things. I don't see anything saying the wires even going to the AC for the furnace. Mechanic has been here on everyday for a week now. Tries something and goes back home "to make some calls" furnace is sitting on the floor. Blue wires not connected to thermostat but red and blue ones going up somewhere under the fridge. Guess what I need to know is does the furnace wires go from the thermostat to the AC and back? Tried calling Heartland. They're closed until Monday.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I have my Champion 3000 Watt inverter generator in the truck bed, between the hitch and the truck tool storage box . I have it chained to the 5th wheel hitch with a heavy duty anti-theft motorcycle security chain. I also have a military (German) metal jerry can of fuel near it, also chained down. I also have an RV 30 amp extension cord in the truck bed connected to the generator RV 30 amp outlet.

If I need to use the generator, I connect the 30 amp RV extension cord to the trailer shore power cable, climb into the truck bed, make sure everything is fire safe, and start up the generator.

So I don't have to pull the generator in and out of the truck bed. Fortunately, I have only had to use the generator rarely when the local RV parks have their power shut down by the local electrical utilities for wildfire prevention, here in California.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Never did get the screens out. Found a topper have a appointment in lake Havasu next week they're going to install the generator too in back of truck. Im gonna use a baby winch to move it in and out of the back of the truck because I can't lift it. Newest problem is furnace won't work. Started with blower working no heat. RV mobile mechanic replaced sails thing and circuit board. Now Furnace works but won't turn off and on. Thermostat good he says. Question do wires go to the AC unit control panel and back? This is just my question because it's being suggested it's a wiring issue in the ceiling. Ugh! I don't see anything telling me that might be the cause, but I don't know these things. I don't see anything saying the wires even going to the AC for the furnace. Mechanic has been here on everyday for a week now. Tries something and goes back home "to make some calls" furnace is sitting on the floor. Blue wires not connected to thermostat but red and blue ones going up somewhere under the fridge. Guess what I need to know is does the furnace wires go from the thermostat to the AC and back? Tried calling Heartland. They're closed until Monday.

On the furnace, most are wired like this...

The thermostat that can control the furnace, the signal goes from the thermostat, the a controller up top in the air conditioner. Then a pair of wires from the heater control circuit on that board comes down to the furnace and interfaces with a pair of furnace wires (blue and a blue with white stripe).

That circuit tells the furnace to turn on / turn off. The board in the furnace has the logic to control the combustion, fan etc. of the furnace.

You can disconnect the control wiring from the blue / blue-white (on a Suburban furnace), then short the blue / blue-white to test. The furnace should come on with those two wires shorted. In a previous RV, when my AC that controlled the furnace "had a bit of a melt-down", I installed a separate (2 AA battery powered) thermostat just for the furnace. Worked great.

See this picture for the OEM wiring "at the furnace" (on a Big Country - could be the same on your TR). Note the wire colors on the zip-cord of the coach wiring that interfaces with the blue / blue-white wires of the furnace. I hope this helps.
 

Txzimmer1

Member
On the furnace, most are wired like this...

The thermostat that can control the furnace, the signal goes from the thermostat, the a controller up top in the air conditioner. Then a pair of wires from the heater control circuit on that board comes down to the furnace and interfaces with a pair of furnace wires (blue and a blue with white stripe).

That circuit tells the furnace to turn on / turn off. The board in the furnace has the logic to control the combustion, fan etc. of the furnace.

You can disconnect the control wiring from the blue / blue-white (on a Suburban furnace), then short the blue / blue-white to test. The furnace should come on with those two wires shorted. In a previous RV, when my AC that controlled the furnace "had a bit of a melt-down", I installed a separate (2 AA battery powered) thermostat just for the furnace. Worked great.

See this picture for the OEM wiring "at the furnace" (on a Big Country - could be the same on your TR). Note the wire colors on the zip-cord of the coach wiring that interfaces with the blue / blue-white wires of the furnace. I hope this helps.

Thank you for your reply. I will forwrd it to the rv mechanic guy. I like the idea of seperate thermostat. I don't like the idea of tearing apart the ceiling or wall.
 
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