Black Water Tank Knife Valve with Cable

Galluta

Member
I just purchased a 2018 Bighorn 3160el. The black water dump valve is stuck open. Seems strange to have this problem in such a late model. I have not seen or removed the valve because it is inside the underbody cover. Does anyone know the Make, Model and cable lenghth I should buy? I've seen Valterra and Bristol as manufacturers.
 

hoefler

Well-known member
I would convert it over to electric, I have had Barker electric actuated valves for over 7 years, with out any issues at all. They are about $20 more to purchase and work so much better.
 

Flick

Well-known member
I just purchased a 2018 Bighorn 3160el. The black water dump valve is stuck open. Seems strange to have this problem in such a late model. I have not seen or removed the valve because it is inside the underbody cover. Does anyone know the Make, Model and cable lenghth I should buy? I've seen Valterra and Bristol as manufacturers.

So many possibilities as to what you may need. Using an impact driver, I would drop the coroplast enough to take a look. You may be able to fix the problem without needing anything to purchase if you’re fortunate. If you’re in need to use the rv facilities, you could purchase a Valtera twist on valve to buy you time. I’d suggest once you fix your problem, leave the twist on valve in place as a secondary valve.
 

Galluta

Member
It looks like they installed the coroplast at the same time they ran the waste plumbing. Consequently, it looks like I will have to cut about 6 inches to take a peak. Is that typical?
 

Flick

Well-known member
It looks like they installed the coroplast at the same time they ran the waste plumbing. Consequently, it looks like I will have to cut about 6 inches to take a peak. Is that typical?

Many of us cut holes in the coroplast to use for access, etc. Cut a 3 sided hole and bend it down for visual access. I reattach the coroplast by installing a piece of 1” lumber across the edge of the cut hole with wood screws and then push the flap against the wood and secure it with a screws.
However, the coroplast has to be able to be removed because there’s no other way to get in there.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
If you have a drop frame, where the front of the frame is lower, you can probably remove a few of the coroplast mounting screws in the corner near the sewer outlet. That may be enough to let you see where the black tank valve is located. Then, cutting a 3-sided rectangle would give you access to work on it. Leave the front edge of the rectangle intact. A lot of people use scrim tape or Gorilla tape to secure the area that was cut, but adding a piece of wood as suggested earlier will be very helpful.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
You do not need to replace the cable assembly to replace the valve. The valve is a standard Valtera gate valve. It is in a cable/holder adapter. Once removed from the pipe, loosen the set screw to remove the cable. Unscrew the outer assembly. Get a pair of vice grips and unscrew the round end from the shaft. On the new valve, unscrew the "T" handle and screw the round end for the cable on the new valve. Reassemble the entire assembly and install. Some have made the cable shorter which seems to make the cable assembly work smoother.

To do so, measure the length of cable extending past the outer jacket. Pull the center back farther than what you are going to remove from the outer jacket and then cut the outer jacket with a Dremel tool. Push the center cable back all the way and cut its length to the same measurement as it was prior.
 

Routemaster

Well-known member
I would convert it over to electric, I have had Barker electric actuated valves for over 7 years, with out any issues at all. They are about $20 more to purchase and work so much better.

I am in the process of replacing my 1 1/2 gate valve because it fails to close. looking on Overstocked after your post, they have them looks like the valves come with the two flanges. I take it that I would discard them both off them for the install?
Thanks.
Den.
 

Thunderbolt

Active Member
Many of us cut holes in the coroplast to use for access, etc. Cut a 3 sided hole and bend it down for visual access. I reattach the coroplast by installing a piece of 1” lumber across the edge of the cut hole with wood screws and then push the flap against the wood and secure it with a screws.
However, the coroplast has to be able to be removed because there’s no other way to get in there.

Could you please send me a picture or two of how you did this? I have a leak in the black tank which I feel is where the pipe joins the tank as the tank leaks down the pipe, drips on the ground and the tank is completely empty when the dripping stops. I have a jointer planer that i can run some 1 X 4 through to make it thinner that the 3/4 inch from the store.
 

Flick

Well-known member
Could you please send me a picture or two of how you did this? I have a leak in the black tank which I feel is where the pipe joins the tank as the tank leaks down the pipe, drips on the ground and the tank is completely empty when the dripping stops. I have a jointer planer that i can run some 1 X 4 through to make it thinner that the 3/4 inch from the store.

The board simply goes across the cut opening and is attached with screws. Bend the coroplast against the board and attach with screws. I don’t use any tape to seal.
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