Furnace not working

Believe that my blower/fan has died. Over the last month the furnace would come on, if I have not used the furnace in hours, it would work fine, but if it comes on and off regularly, you can hear the blower struggle. Occasionally it would stop, I would have to turn the power off at the thermostat, wait about 10 mins, turn the power back on and it would work again for a while. Today, all it did is click when I turn the furnace on, then click again when I turn the power off at the thermostat. I have checked and even replaced the 12v fuse to no avail. Also have 2 new 12v batteries (residential refrig).

I do have Cheap Heat, which is what I normally use, but have tried using propane, but still same problem. Obviously the furnace needs to have the blower/fan come on first before the heat/propane will start. Doesn't sound like the board, but...

I searched on the forum, but was unable to find a similar problem. How do I go about troubleshooting this to isolate the problem.


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Cheap Heat shares the same fan as the LP furnace so it doesn't sound like a fan problem.
Clicking indicates that the furnace is trying to ignite but may not be getting lP gas so it shuts down.
I would investigate lP flow. Tanks full? Flame on stove? Water heater work on lP?
Just a couple thoughts.

Peace
Dave

You might try the troubleshooting tree on page 30 of this manual from the Heartland Owners Forum Library:
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org...CE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf

Have you run the furnace a LOT over the years? I am guessing the 12 VDC motor is a carbon brush type, and these brushes can wear out over lots of running time.

Good Luck!!!

Hi Seren,

I'd suggest giving Larry at CheapHeat a call to help diagnose the problem. 425-408-3140.

"hear the blower struggle" might suggest a mechanical problem, depending on what "struggle" means to you. But if you mean the blower speed changes or it starts and stops, you might just have a loose wire connection.

On Edit: If the click you hear is overhead, that's the relay activated by the thermostat to send power to start the blower. You might want to make sure you've checked the right fuse in the fusebox, and check with a meter.

cookie said:

Cheap Heat shares the same fan as the LP furnace so it doesn't sound like a fan problem.
Clicking indicates that the furnace is trying to ignite but may not be getting lP gas so it shuts down.
I would investigate lP flow. Tanks full? Flame on stove? Water heater work on lP?
Just a couple thoughts.

Peace
Dave

Click to expand...

Not propane, since it works for the stove and oven. I normally use Cheap Heat (50 amp) for the furnace.


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wdk450 said:

You might try the troubleshooting tree on page 30 of this manual from the Heartland Owners Forum Library:
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org...CE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf

Have you run the furnace a LOT over the years? I am guessing the 12 VDC motor is a carbon brush type, and these brushes can wear out over lots of running time.

Good Luck!!!

Click to expand...

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wdk450 said:

Have you run the furnace a LOT over the years? I am guessing the 12 VDC motor is a carbon brush type, and these brushes can wear out over lots of running time.

Good Luck!!!

Click to expand...

We full-time, so if it is cold we use it, but normally we are in a warm climate during the winter. This year we are in the up country of North Carolina.


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wdk450 said:

You might try the troubleshooting tree on page 30 of this manual from the Heartland Owners Forum Library:
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org...CE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf

Link goes to a Sundance thread

Click to expand...

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danemayer said:

Hi Seren,

I'd suggest giving Larry at CheapHeat a call to help diagnose the problem. 425-408-3140.

"hear the blower struggle" might suggest a mechanical problem, depending on what "struggle" means to you. But if you mean the blower speed changes or it starts and stops, you might just have a loose wire connection.

On Edit: If the click you hear is overhead, that's the relay activated by the thermostat to send power to start the blower. You might want to make sure you've checked the right fuse in the fusebox, and check with a meter.

(425) 408-314​

Click to expand...

Two weeks ago had a mobile unit come out and they quickly found that there was a wire that was loose, it was working, but when he squeezed the wire together, the fan was stronger. However, after a few times using the Cheap Heat, still had the same problem, now will not come on at all. Have tried resetting the breaker for Cheap Heat, no help.

Also clicking comes from the basement. But if I switch to propane, I do not hear the click, however the heat will still not turn on.

Will call Cheap Heat tomorrow to see what they say.


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Seren said:

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Click to expand...

I just clicked on the link in your reply and got the Suburban manual.

- - - Updated - - -

Seren said:

Two weeks ago had a mobile unit come out and they quickly found that there was a wire that was loose, it was working, but when he squeezed the wire together, the fan was stronger. However, after a few times using the Cheap Heat, still had the same problem, now will not come on at all. Have tried resetting the breaker for Cheap Heat, no help.

Also clicking comes from the basement. But if I switch to propane, I do not hear the click, however the heat will still not turn on.

Will call Cheap Heat tomorrow to see what they say.


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Click to expand...

" it was working, but when he squeezed the wire together, the fan was stronger."

Sounds like a bad (crimp?) connection. I would say that connection involved needs to be redone. Treating connection points with Caig DeOxIt electrical contact restorer/spray might help, too.
Most electrical motors need a substantial pulse of current to get running from a standstill (like 10 times running current). If you have a poor connection in the motor circuit, the motor may no longer get enough of this initial current pulse to get going.

One weak area in the CheapHeat installation is where the CheapHeat wiring joins with the Suburban wiring to the blower. The standard install uses a ScotchLok press-on connector (some code requirement IIRC). I used Wago Lever Connectors which I find more reliable and much easier to deal with when maintenance is required.

I have a vague recollection that you cut the blower wire during installation. The hot side gets connected to a wire from the CheapHeat Controller. Then a different wire from the CheapHeat controller gets ScotchLok'd to the blower's wire. If I'm remembering this correctly, a poor connection at the ScotchLok could account for failure on both propane and electric.

Here's a link to an assortment.

It is a Tapatalk problem (link goes to a wrong page). Link works in a browser.


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