atwood 10 hot water tank
- Thread starter corkster1
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danemayer
Well-known member
Hi corkster1,
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.
Your Atwood water heater has some common components that are used for both propane and 120V AC operation, as well as some separate. The thermostat and emergency cutoff as well as reset button are all common. So if the propane side works, those are all ok.
The control board is also common and used for both operations, but it's possible the 120V operation could have failed on the board, or on the relay between the board and the electric heating element. But that's a less likely failure scenario.
The switch inside could have a loose wire or a switch failure. Also there's a junction box on the inside front of the water heater where the trailer wires connect to the water heater wires. A bad connection there could be a cause of failure.
One very common cause of failure on the 120V operation is that the electric heating element can be burned out if operated when no water is in the tank. It's takes longer to do this on Atwood units than on Suburban units, but it's possible.
To determine where the problem lies, I think you'd want to measure voltage at several points on the control board. That would tell you if 120V AC is present and you may be able to verify operation of the relay the board fires to connect 120V AC to the heating element.
You can find more help and wiring info in the service manual located in this folder.
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.
Your Atwood water heater has some common components that are used for both propane and 120V AC operation, as well as some separate. The thermostat and emergency cutoff as well as reset button are all common. So if the propane side works, those are all ok.
The control board is also common and used for both operations, but it's possible the 120V operation could have failed on the board, or on the relay between the board and the electric heating element. But that's a less likely failure scenario.
The switch inside could have a loose wire or a switch failure. Also there's a junction box on the inside front of the water heater where the trailer wires connect to the water heater wires. A bad connection there could be a cause of failure.
One very common cause of failure on the 120V operation is that the electric heating element can be burned out if operated when no water is in the tank. It's takes longer to do this on Atwood units than on Suburban units, but it's possible.
To determine where the problem lies, I think you'd want to measure voltage at several points on the control board. That would tell you if 120V AC is present and you may be able to verify operation of the relay the board fires to connect 120V AC to the heating element.
You can find more help and wiring info in the service manual located in this folder.
MydogMissie
Member
Last edited:
MydogMissie
Member
now that is solved, but now the electric will not turn off. water is steaming & I need to leave it run because it goes to overflo. Switch inside is turned off. Replaced thermostat same thing. Is there a manual shut off or a breaker I can shut for this
danemayer
Well-known member
The electric element runs off 120V AC, powered from a circuit breaker in your main circuit breaker panel. But your problem description, "water is steaming", leaves a few questions. The Thermostat should open the power to the heating element when the water reaches 140 degrees (F). If that fails, the ECO opens the circuit at 180 degrees.
By chance, is the propane side of the water heater turned on?
Have you measured the actual water temperature? 140 feels pretty hot to the skin.
MydogMissie
Member
Propane is NOT on. water temp is over 200 degrees. I have switched every switch in the circuit breaker off turned the electric switch on and it still shows the electric is on. Is it possible that there is a turn off on the tank itself.
I'm a bit confused here. When you turn the electric on it will show electric on.
You may have a failed thermostat and/or high limit cutoff switch.
Check out our water heater manuals and troubleshooting guide. Click here.
Are you saying that you turned all the breakers off and the water heater remains on?
How did you check the temperature of the water?
And yes, there might be a switch on the water heater. You will have to look at it.
Peace
Dave
danemayer
Well-known member
Based on what you said, it sounds like your installation has been modified in some strange way. You probably need to get a repair service to investigate.
MydogMissie
Member
turn off on circuit breaker is to tank and frige. But still is heating way to much as I culdn't keep electric off.
MydogMissie
Member
thanks for all the help. I am going to need a repairman to figure this out
MydogMissie
Member
thanks, That is what I will try.
MydogMissie
Member
I have managed to put it on propane, after shutting down electric completely. Seems as if the propane is working OK. Will still get a repairman out to check the whole thing out. I prefer electric as I don't pay for it.
MydogMissie
Member
propane heat is at 175. So something is wrong.
danemayer
Well-known member
Apart from your previous comments that the electric stays on even with all circuit breakers turned off, I would say that you have a defective control board. The control board gets the signal from the thermostat to cut power to either the electric element, or the gas valve. On electric operation, the thermal cutoff also signals the board to cut power. On gas operation, a separate ECO will cut power if temp gets to 180.
So assuming that your replacement thermostat is working correctly, but the control board is ignoring the thermostat or reading it wrong, then I would expect on gas, water temp won't get above 180. On electric, if the board is defective, it could go higher.
BUT, on electric, shutting off all the circuit breakers should cut power to the water heater unless someone has wired it to bypass the breaker panel. And of course, that's dangerous.
A profession is needed to cut through the confusion and get to the bottom of the problem.
So assuming that your replacement thermostat is working correctly, but the control board is ignoring the thermostat or reading it wrong, then I would expect on gas, water temp won't get above 180. On electric, if the board is defective, it could go higher.
BUT, on electric, shutting off all the circuit breakers should cut power to the water heater unless someone has wired it to bypass the breaker panel. And of course, that's dangerous.
A profession is needed to cut through the confusion and get to the bottom of the problem.
