Toyhauler- Can-Am Spyder

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
So, We are looking at changing up our RVing lifestyle in the near future. I was interested to see if anyone travels with a Can-Am Spyder in the garage? Just curious what size garage? Are they hard to strap down? Any issues going up the ramp?


Thanks in advance.
 

centerline

Well-known member
there are no issues hauling a can-am spyder in a 10ft garage... and no issues loading unless you are parked in such a position that the ground slopes away from the rear of the trailer, causing the ramp to be too steep... this can be more of an issue when you flop the axles to make the trailer sit higher, but still not to the extent of it being a "problem" that cant be easily resolved....

a friend of mine had custom pockets built about 1.5" deep that he inserted into the floor, so that the front wheels would set in these pockets, helping with perfect placement every time, while keeping the front from shifting sideways when he encounters rough road conditions.... this way he only has to lightly tie down the rear of it.... its quick and easy to load and unload, and tie down, and has always stayed in place no matter how hard he has driven....

what you DONT want to do is lock the hydraulic brakes "ON" it when hauling it, as there have been several instances where the changing air pressure and temperature ranges, as one goes over mountain passes, which causes expansion of contraction of the pressure in the brake cylinder has caused blown seals on the plunger within the fluid reservoirs... it cant happen if the fluid isnt locked under pressure...
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
there are no issues hauling a can-am spyder in a 10ft garage... and no issues loading unless you are parked in such a position that the ground slopes away from the rear of the trailer, causing the ramp to be too steep... this can be more of an issue when you flop the axles to make the trailer sit higher, but still not to the extent of it being a "problem" that cant be easily resolved....

a friend of mine had custom pockets built about 1.5" deep that he inserted into the floor, so that the front wheels would set in these pockets, helping with perfect placement every time, while keeping the front from shifting sideways when he encounters rough road conditions.... this way he only has to lightly tie down the rear of it.... its quick and easy to load and unload, and tie down, and has always stayed in place no matter how hard he has driven....

what you DONT want to do is lock the hydraulic brakes "ON" it when hauling it, as there have been several instances where the changing air pressure and temperature ranges, as one goes over mountain passes, which causes expansion of contraction of the pressure in the brake cylinder has caused blown seals on the plunger within the fluid reservoirs... it cant happen if the fluid isnt locked under pressure...

Interesting. Thank you.
 

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Jamie,

As we spoke sometime ago about ourselves looking into a TH, upon reading your post/question, a thought came to mind as you may have already thought about it. Tie downs. How are they attached to trailer? Just bolted into the wood floor? Thru floor w/ metal plate underneath it? Thru floor yet attached/welded to frame/crossmembers of trailer? Many sled trailers that have tie downs in floor simply bolt them into the wood to save time and money. I really never gave it much thought until we bought our last one in '14 (geesh doesn't seem like it was that long ago) and when we brought it home, we swapped w/ our sled dealer as they had furniture on their we bought for DD. He looked it over and noticed the tie downs were bolted to a plate and welded to crossmember.....he liked that. Now as for us and sleds in trailer, I simply just drive them on, set brakes and close door as we travel about 50 miles from home/ Now before I get chastised I know this isn't the best interest if involved in a accident and frankly, I'll have bigger problems than if the sleds were tied down. Mind you this is a 4 place V-nose enclosed, dual rubber/torsion axle and rides smooth. IF and I say IF this was a 2 place trailer, then yes they would be tied down. When we go long distance, then they get tied down. My point being, make sure what the tie downs are attached to underneath the floor......especially if a wheeled vehicle is in garage. If I recall right, not all garage floors are flat (which would help in less movement.....ie back end lower towards door), so IMO it would make a difference on tie downs as you're going to reefing on the straps pretty good.

Mike
 

david-steph2018

Well-known member
So, We are looking at changing up our RVing lifestyle in the near future. I was interested to see if anyone travels with a Can-Am Spyder in the garage? Just curious what size garage? Are they hard to strap down? Any issues going up the ramp?


Thanks in advance.

Jamie we don't haul a Spyder just a gas power golf cart but 1 issue we run into loading is if we get our tires wet from rain/dew. Then it will spin on the ramp.
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
Jamie,

As we spoke sometime ago about ourselves looking into a TH, upon reading your post/question, a thought came to mind as you may have already thought about it. Tie downs. How are they attached to trailer? Just bolted into the wood floor? Thru floor w/ metal plate underneath it? Thru floor yet attached/welded to frame/crossmembers of trailer? Many sled trailers that have tie downs in floor simply bolt them into the wood to save time and money. I really never gave it much thought until we bought our last one in '14 (geesh doesn't seem like it was that long ago) and when we brought it home, we swapped w/ our sled dealer as they had furniture on their we bought for DD. He looked it over and noticed the tie downs were bolted to a plate and welded to crossmember.....he liked that. Now as for us and sleds in trailer, I simply just drive them on, set brakes and close door as we travel about 50 miles from home/ Now before I get chastised I know this isn't the best interest if involved in a accident and frankly, I'll have bigger problems than if the sleds were tied down. Mind you this is a 4 place V-nose enclosed, dual rubber/torsion axle and rides smooth. IF and I say IF this was a 2 place trailer, then yes they would be tied down. When we go long distance, then they get tied down. My point being, make sure what the tie downs are attached to underneath the floor......especially if a wheeled vehicle is in garage. If I recall right, not all garage floors are flat (which would help in less movement.....ie back end lower towards door), so IMO it would make a difference on tie downs as you're going to reefing on the straps pretty good.

Mike

Jamie we don't haul a Spyder just a gas power golf cart but 1 issue we run into loading is if we get our tires wet from rain/dew. Then it will spin on the ramp.


Still researching the bike. Hoping 2021 purchase. But the purchase of this toy will definitely alter the purchase of our next trailer. And I’m just trying to find out details on the toyhauler.

One of my concerns is the Spyder has a portion of the grill and air dam that hangs out in front of the front wheels. It looks extremely low. Concerned about the approach angle and that air dam hitting the ramp as start up on.

This is the model I’m leaning towards.
1e6e002bec5ab9caaa66f239864450f7.jpg
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
You can carry a set of aluminum loading ramps for the front wheels then you can adjust the angle.
 

porthole

Retired
What Jon said or just some 2X6's

If the nose is close one 2X should solve the issue.
The other area of concern will be the transition from the ramp to the bay and the bottom of the bike.

Nothing that can't be solved with some practice and boards if needed.

And don't buy your tie down straps at HF

Who was with us when the couple opened their SOB toy hauler at the Virgina rally a few years ago to see both bikes down? Would be the same couple that backed out of the trailer with no brakes.
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
You can carry a set of aluminum loading ramps for the front wheels then you can adjust the angle.

What Jon said or just some 2X6's

If the nose is close one 2X should solve the issue.
The other area of concern will be the transition from the ramp to the bay and the bottom of the bike.

Nothing that can't be solved with some practice and boards if needed.

And don't buy your tie down straps at HF

Who was with us when the couple opened their SOB toy hauler at the Virgina rally a few years ago to see both bikes down? Would be the same couple that backed out of the trailer with no brakes.


Yep, I’m sure it is nothing a few ramps and some 2x will not solve. We were at a dealership last Friday. Man they sit low.

I’m not so much worried about laying one over. If I open up the garage and see it laying on its side....I might have bigger problems. Lol.
 
Top