2008 Cyclone 4012 - hasty buy; regrets?

[DonLisa]

Our story starts off by just arriving home from Sturgis 75th motorcycle rally and saying we will never tent again- the 1,400 mile roundtrip bike ride in the heat, rain and cold tested our limits...Our RV was probably the most expensive least researched choice we've ever made in our lives. Both of us are avid outdoors camping folks, but this was a first time RV buy and the sales people at the RV place smelled us a mile away. I was in the market (6 hours total time) looking for a 35' toy hauler as I had a Ford F250 V10 gasoline and wanted to match the RV to the truck. The Cyclone 4012 we looked at "just arrived" for a 2008 it looked immaculate, included all the options (incl. vacuum system) and all the extra's you need to buy with an RV this one came with it...hoses, gray water hoses, wheel chocks, levels etc. I bet there was almost $2000 hidden away in storage places. They assured us they would go through (lie #1) and check it out as we made it clear we were first time RVr's...I could keep writing but I find it embarrassing to continue.

Maybe one day. after I become a crusty RV'r I can laugh but currently its hurting a little. Call it pride, "buyers remorse," or just hitting my head against the wall: "I'm old enough to know better."

I need to ask some newbie questions:

1) We took it out one time last year after purchase and noticed a couple of things:
~ when running the generator it surges. Like its running too rich...do I need to bring it to Onan mech to adjust that or can I?
~ on our one time fall outing a motorcycle tip over putting the handle bar into the wall. Is there a way to repair the hole?
~ Anybody here add shelves to the walls in the garage (away from the bunks)? hang anything on the walls?
~ (reference the motorcycle tipping) Harbor Freight motorcycle racks. Can I safely drill holes in the floor to accommodate the lag bolts in the garage?
~ Does anybody know of an OEM screen that can be made or installed in the garage on/near the main door (a "3 seasons" on the newer trailers)?
~ IF a CB is not blown, a light bulb been replaced, what else could keep a light from working? Specifically, the work light up front by the hitch.
~ Can I upgrade the home entertainment system? Its 8 years old and I would like to see HD on the TV and 8 years ago bluetooth was unheard.

2) preventive maintenance
~what's the one thing you wished was written in the owners manual but is not and either read it or someone told you about it.
~ we suffering delamination issues under the fridge vent so we are inspecting that and I hear my pocket book screaming in terror
~ I also noticed the need to re-caulk everything as its cracking.

3) I drove semi-truck over the road for years...what's with a greaseless fifth wheels?

4) Is there ever and end to constant expensive fixes? Any suggestion on keeping that down? tires etc. (I read too much in here about blown tires and trashing the trailer with rubber. This question, I guess, when does a trailer get to be too old? We do like the layout and places to store things if we want to live in it later in life.

That's enough questions for now- I am sure this will generate all sorts of replies.

Thank you,

Don & Lisa

Ps. I know someone would mention it as I would and its a huge safety concern. But, we just got a 2015 Chevy 3500 Silverado Duramax Allison transmission Dual Rears to pull the trailer...I shopped for this, like I should have for the trailer as took us 8 months of looking and driving Dodges, Fords, GMC's etc.

 

[danemayer]

Hi DonLisa,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.

You've got quite a few questions, but the good news is that there's a great bunch of friendly and helpful people here who are quick to share what they've learned.

Let me kick things off by suggesting you immediately take care of the caulking of roof, lights, seams, windows, etc. to stop any water intrusion that might be setting you up for future problems.

The refrigerator should have a corrugated hose that drains the condensation from inside the refrigerator. Those hoses become brittle over the years. If you have delamination by the refrigerator outside vent, make sure that hose is in place and draining outside. Also, if there's a water line for ice maker, locate the cutoff valve and shut evacuate the water from that line until you can evaluate the cause of the delamination.

On the light that won't come on, check the fuse panel. While most appliances run off 120V AC powered through circuit breakers, most of the lights run off 12V DC, powered through fuses. FYI, there are usually also some 12V DC mini-circuit breakers probably located near the battery that power the high-current 12V devices.

On tires, check the manufacturing date and if 4 years or older, replace them. If the brand name is Towmax, most people will tell you to replace them regardless of age.

I'm sure others will chime in with additional thoughts and toy hauler owners will be able to give you advice on the garage questions.

 

[Garypowell]

Don,

In some respects it does not sound too bad for a 2008. The biggest problem with buying something used is you really don't know how it was taken care of by the previous owner(s). The caulked being cracked could indicate it was caulked once before because if it had never been caulked the seams might be empty!

Dan is right to suggest take care of sealing it up first. You'll need to do your own research but you use a special caulk for the roof and for the sides there are some really good choices too.

I would spend a lot of time going through on-line manuals. Not sure what came with yours but my guess not many. And just hang around the forum and see what everyone is talking about.

But the sad news is your going to have to go over everything on your new rig......bearings, bushings, tires.....just take it one thing at a time and it will all work out.

 

[Shortest Straw]

Don't let the fact you bought an 8 year old trailer get you down. We did that once and ran it for 6 years with very few issues. I did go through it top to bottom when we got it home. Look at it as a learning experience because by the time you are done you will know your trailer well. Maybe even better than the previous owner. I would start by checking the caulking as has already been recommended. For the light up front since the circuit breaker is good put a test light on it and see if you are getting power up to the light itself. Everything can be upgraded electronics wise it would just depend on how much you want to spend. Personally I would jack your rig up and check/repack or replace all of the wheel bearings. I would also go through and check all of the wiring that I could get my hands on for chaffing, making sure the connections are tight, etc. I would do the same thing with the plumbing. Like I said you are going to get to know your rig very well. I am not sure that there is an expiration date on an rv if it is well taken care of. Things break on these rigs and while it may be an inconvenience if they do, I consider a successful trip one that I get to and from my destination safely. Good luck with your repairs and upgrades and enjoy that toy.

 

[NWILSON]

First off, congratulations and welcome to the Heartland family!
The others have offered good advice on general RV ownership so I'll offer a little input on toyhaulers.
There are a lot of choices on chocks for hauling your bike(s). I chose Bike Pro because it's removable with two acorn nuts and leaves just a plate on the floor for those times when the bike stays at home. As far as attachment, I'd suggest not using lag bolts but rather drill through and use nuts and bolts with large washers. With a little measuring you'll likely be able to drill one hole through a metal beam under the floor for added strength. Some have also added E-track for additional tie downs. The D rings in the floor never seem to be right where you want them.
Sadly, my garage doesn't lend itself to additional cabinets though the storage compartment in the floor holds a lot. I have considered removing the mattresses (maybe even one of the bed frames) on the Happy-Jack beds and setting cabinets on it. They would raise out of the way when not needed but still allow you to use the bed if needed. If you felt you'd never use the beds you could remove the beds completely and use the framework to support your cabinets and raise and lower them as necessary.
Just some food for thought. Some other ToyHauler owners will let you know how they've adapted for their uses I'm sure

 

[crazybanshee]

Hey Don you bought yourself a great trailer. We have had ours for nine years with 80K miles and are vey happy with it. Like people have said go over your trailer top to bottom to see it all. I put new tires on mine every two years. They may look good but they wear on the inside. Easier to change at home than along a highway.

 

[DonLisa]

Thank you all for your input!!

Lisa and I talked deeply today about our trailer. We decided to take this as a learning experience; maybe the trailer we brought will grow on us. We definitely love the floor plan of the 2008 trailer compared to the new ones that are coming out. I got off the phone with the body shop and made sure they are gonna keep it inside as there is forecasted rain. We got a plan. (Please chime in if there is something to add to it)

1. After the body shop repairs the cracks by the delamination - they found a small one above the bedroom slide and a large one over the fridge vent(which we are not convinced its caused by us as our storage people took it upon themselves to move the trailer without our supervision. But without proof would be hard to prove neglagence on the storage people part.....I had lowered the braces in the rear) ...we are gonna move it back into our storage unit waiting for the RV repair slot/date (its madness up here in Idaho as everyone wants their units fix). Caulk the crap out of it...check the roof and caulk up on top and paint a new covering on it. Gary, I closely inspected today just for caulking and there is bare tracks around some windows on the back side. All good on the door side though.

2. While its in storage use danemeyer's advise and pull the fridge out away from the wall and check the drain hose. I bet a million $$ dollars its worthless as suggested.

3. RV repair people are gonna check the dates on the tires (replace those dreaded TowMax if thats what they are), check bearings and bushings...in all my reading on the forum I am paranoid(!) about the tires. I told Lisa its expensive to replace but it would cost twice as much to repair the rig if we get a blown tire and trashes the bottom of our trailer. I even purchased a TST monitoring system coming on Monday for the new tires or old if deemed still good.

Thank you Nwilson (awesome idea! with the beds) and I will check on the BikePro.

I dunno if you guys forgot to mention or assumed somebody would. How do I repair the wall where the handle grip went through and left a hole? If you don't have one... Lisa suggested hanging a poster over the hole; which is a great idea in case I can not repair it.

Please keep suggestions coming...I am sure in the coming weeks to add more questions to this thread.

I feel a zen moment coming and getting to know my trailer.

Safe travels to all,
Don

Don & Lisa

 

[DonLisa]

First off, congratulations and welcome to the Heartland family!
The others have offered good advice on general RV ownership so I'll offer a little input on toyhaulers.
There are a lot of choices on chocks for hauling your bike(s). I chose Bike Pro because it's removable with two acorn nuts and leaves just a plate on the floor for those times when the bike stays at home. As far as attachment, I'd suggest not using lag bolts but rather drill through and use nuts and bolts with large washers. With a little measuring you'll likely be able to drill one hole through a metal beam under the floor for added strength. Some have also added E-track for additional tie downs. The D rings in the floor never seem to be right where you want them.
Sadly, my garage doesn't lend itself to additional cabinets though the storage compartment in the floor holds a lot. I have considered removing the mattresses (maybe even one of the bed frames) on the Happy-Jack beds and setting cabinets on it. They would raise out of the way when not needed but still allow you to use the bed if needed. If you felt you'd never use the beds you could remove the beds completely and use the framework to support your cabinets and raise and lower them as necessary.
Just some food for thought. Some other ToyHauler owners will let you know how they've adapted for their uses I'm sure

Awesome ideas!
Where did you purchase your Bike Pro? Directly from them? I see no ordering link.

Did you put your tracks on the floor or wall or both?

Don

 

[NWILSON]

Awesome ideas!
Where did you purchase your Bike Pro? Directly from them? I see no ordering link.

Did you put your tracks on the floor or wall or both?

Actually I found the Bike Pro on EBay. Someone had bought it then didn't need it. A Google search will turn up plenty of retailers.
I've only installed E-Track on the floor. Do not scrimp on bolts and, if possible, use a beam under the floor as backing whenever possible.

 

[eka217]

Check out biker bar from b & w hitches. Works great no straps. Good luck with the rig. Ed

 

[Gtoli]

We also bought our rig used. We had experience with travel trailers but this is our first toy hauler and 5'er. It is a learning experience and the rig will definitely grow on you. We had to replace the tires and wheels, I decided it was a good time to upgrade to wheels and tires with a higher weight rating. Good luck and safe travels.

 

[DonLisa]

eka217 will this work on all makes and models? I can see this working on HD but I got Victory and don't remember if the frame is exposed for the clamp to grab-on.

 

[oscar]

Don't think anyone has addressed the greaseless 5th wheel..... it's a white disc made out of PTFE (Most known brand name is Teflon). It snaps on to the pin box and acts as a wear layer. Mine's been on for 7000 miles now and I can't tell any wear.......Available at many RV stores or here: http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe...554757&sr=8-1&keywords=fifth+wheel+hitch+disc

Other than that........ RV's are not built as well as cars, or houses, or boats or many other things. Competition is brutal and quality control is a moving target with a low budget for the manufacturers, and getting highly skilled labor to work for very little is still not happening. Doh. "Tight is good, stripped is better" still appears to be the norm. Combine that with paper mache and cardboard and you have yourself a setup which need constant repairs. You have three choices: 1: Ignore the problems and have the thing deteriorate into the swamp before you've paid it off. (You have no idea how often this happens) 2: Have someone else do it for you and bleed your wallet to death. 3: Learn how to do it yourself. This and many other forums, are full of people that can help you. But, one step at a time...... one problem at a time...... And, there's a lot of good books you can get on the subject, or hook up with other owners at brand meets, or other organizations like SKP.

I answered your hitch question.

 

[DonLisa]

Don't think anyone has addressed the greaseless 5th wheel..... it's a white disc made out of PTFE (Most known brand name is Teflon). It snaps on to the pin box and acts as a wear layer. Mine's been on for 7000 miles now and I can't tell any wear.......Available at many RV stores or here: http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe...554757&sr=8-1&keywords=fifth+wheel+hitch+disc

Other than that........ RV's are not built as well as cars, or houses, or boats or many other things. Competition is brutal and quality control is a moving target with a low budget for the manufacturers, and getting highly skilled labor to work for very little is still not happening. Doh. "Tight is good, stripped is better" still appears to be the norm. Combine that with paper mache and cardboard and you have yourself a setup which need constant repairs. You have three choices: 1: Ignore the problems and have the thing deteriorate into the swamp before you've paid it off. (You have no idea how often this happens) 2: Have someone else do it for you and bleed your wallet to death. 3: Learn how to do it yourself. This and many other forums, are full of people that can help you. But, one step at a time...... one problem at a time...... And, there's a lot of good books you can get on the subject, or hook up with other owners at brand meets, or other organizations like SKP.

I answered your hitch question.

Thank you Oscar, After they installed my new BW hitch I added the plastic do-hicky.

 

[DonLisa]

Hello All,
Its been a little less than week since our initial shock of how well the previous owners maintained their ex-trailer which we purchased.

We are having a "Zen" moment with our trailer and getting to understand the need for caulking. We don't really understand the thought process for caulking around windows and only doing the top portion of the windows omitting the sides and bottom.

Photo #1 & 2 is a good example to the reasoning behind caulking all the way around windows, vents or anything that comes out the sides of your trailer!!!!!! Also for buyers to see the caution expressed by seasoned RV owners to newbies buying used trailers.

Photo#3 is under the 19" fiberglass crack. Dry wood. whew! I also have some hairline cracks forming above the slides at the corner on this side only (left side/drivers side)

Photo#4 is more of a mystery than the photo gives credit. This is at the very end of the trailer and the water could have only gained access via the roof.

I know some reader is out there wondering about photos of the other side? It looks perfectly normal- no delamination, solid walls etc. Other than windows, doors etc are not sealed all the way around and only on-top. Noticed the graphics are 8 years old too...I am glad I don't have to replace them.

Stay tuned please, I will post more photos later this week. As there are some questions coming I am hoping someone in here has experienced it.

Zen to all RVr's,
Don & Lisa

 

[Bob&Patty]

When re-caulking the windows....do not caulk around the whole window. Only the top and down the sides if need be. If caulked at the bottom....you could caulk the weep holes for drainage shut. Then you would really get water intrusion. In the pix #4...is that bad delam under the "scare" lite?? Do the same as in mentioned on exterior lamps.....you do not want to seal the bottoms or they will not drain if water gets into them.

 

[DonLisa]

When re-caulking the windows....do not caulk around the whole window. Only the top and down the sides if need be. If caulked at the bottom....you could caulk the weep holes for drainage shut. Then you would really get water intrusion. In the pix #4...is that bad delam under the "scare" lite?? Do the same as in mentioned on exterior lamps.....you do not want to seal the bottoms or they will not drain if water gets into them.

Nuts! Thanks Bob- I will go and fix that tomorrow.

I think the delam in the back is more having to do water coming in from the roof upper corner area. But, I will check both scare lights.

Don

 

[DonLisa]

Hello All,
I noticed its been two weeks since my last post. We finished the final work on Mothers Day. Went out and got wasted.

Delamination...problem is too severe on the garage side so we glued it up and next year will probably reassess the issue and most likely cut the back outside off and re-due the wall. Replaced the Fridge drain as it probably caused a lot of damage; just not sure how as the delamination occurs north of the bottom vent caused by the drain.

I believe we went through 20+ caulking tubes and three bottles of Goo-Gone. We are still not sure if we got the leaks onto left side of the trailer. I don't think the trailer had been caulk in several years- the top corner cap when I removed I could see inside the trailer cavity.

I call it my "30 Caulk Job" looks great from 30' but don't get any closer. There is several pictures to include in this post and it will save typing by answering questions.

We made a sign to hang around our necks that said, "I Don't Know." We must of said that a 1000x's to each other and I just used my home repair abilities to fix most. When I went to grease the bedroom slides the bed almost fell apart so I had to remove that from the trailer and fix it. To save on the money we ended doing our own fiberglass repair and passed on going to the body shop. That was so I could pay for the suspension and six new hubs, brakes and tires. Our Rv Mech said he didn't know how Campers World could send us down the road with it this bad.

We removed the gutters on the left side and caulked and re-attached with fresh screws.

I just placed a post in the general section of our forum as I am scratching my head about our back ramp/ODS lights.... I am thinking I might have to consult someone above my pay grade for that probably the same time I replace the fuel hose that travels the total length of the trailer to our generator as the Gen repair said the surging was most likely caused by air getting into the line from an old hose.

But, I think we are ready to get out of town and boondock.

Don & Lisa

 

[mlpeloquin]

When I recaulked my rig, I use a safety raiser, hook, and box cutter to remove all the old caulking. I work slowly. I also use lots of blue painters tape. I caulk a few feet at a time and pull the tape off leaving a clean line.

 

[DonLisa]

When I recaulked my rig, I use a safety raiser, hook, and box cutter to remove all the old caulking. I work slowly. I also use lots of blue painters tape. I caulk a few feet at a time and pull the tape off leaving a clean line.

oh yeah, 6 rolls of blue masking tape, and several bags of rags. If I don't see my caulking gun for 6 months it will be too soon.