2014 415RW Transfer switch issue

[Wiser1s]

Hi all,

We recently purchased a 2014 415RW and during our first outing we noticed a foul smell after bring in our slides on shore power. Upon returning to the house to unload (no 50 amp service at the house), we went to start the generator but it failed to connect power to the electrical system. It would try to connect but electrical power would not stay engaged. After unloading I immediately took the RV back to the dealer with a list of items to repair/correct which included the generator not supplying power to the RV electrical system. After having the RV for almost 3 weeks now, all repairs have been accomplished by the dealer but I'm being told the reason the transfer switch was damaged was due to bringing the slides in while the AC units were still ON created a increased current draw through the transfer switch. I'm not sure if this is a ligitimate answer to my question to the dealer so I'm curious if others have had a similar issue? Should the slides only be operated on the 12 VDC system? This is my 3rd fifth wheel and I've never had issues with operating the slides on shore power but this is my first RV with a generator If I had the 415RW wiring schematics I could figure this thing out on my own but I have to rely on what the dealer is saying unless I hear otherwise. Can the service manuals be purchased anywhere?

Thanks,

Darin Wise
2005 Chevy 3500 CC Dually
2014 415RW

 

[jimtoo]

Hi Darin,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

I don't think that caused your problem.. most likely it was a loose connection on the transfer switch.

I'm sure you will get some ideas from our other members who know a lot about the electrical systems soon. Also if you go to the "Tools" tag on the top of the page here you will find lots of owners manuals and helpful diagrams submitted by our members and suppliers.

Jim M

 

[danemayer]

I'm being told the reason the transfer switch was damaged was due to bringing the slides in while the AC units were still ON created a increased current draw through the transfer switch. I'm not sure if this is a ligitimate answer to my question to the dealer so I'm curious if others have had a similar issue? Should the slides only be operated on the 12 VDC system?

I think if you press the dealer on this explanation, he'll have to admit that the slides get their power primarily from the battery, with a little help from the power converter if you're still plugged into shore power. The Power Converter only draws a few amps no matter what you're doing with the slides - less than a coffee pot draws. So his explanation is like saying that you damaged the transfer switch by making coffee while running the AC unit. Pretty silly if you think about it.

An explanation like this really indicates that the tech hasn't found the cause of the problem. the good news is that if he replaced the transfer switch, he may have fixed the problem even though he didn't understand the cause.

Here's a link to the transfer switch manuals. Note that there's one on troubleshooting.

 

[kowAlski631]

Extending that logic further, we couldn't use the toaster, the microwave, & the coffee pot at the same time while the ac was on. Hmmm.
Martha

 

[taken]

I would agree with Martha and Dan's logic on this and Jim's reason for failure as well. Did they replace the switch under warranty or are they asking you to pay for it, hence the skewed diagnosis/blame? If this was an over draw situation you would trip a breaker not burn a switch.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Sounds like a " I dont know...so I will lie to you" thing. The slides run on 12V DC not 120 AC. All the genset is doing is charging the battery/batteries.

 

[porthole]

And another example of dealers that can't be trusted to give correct answers or even close to correct answers.

 

[Wiser1s]

I go pick up my 415RW today and I've asked the dealer for a detailed breakdown of how they troubleshot my RV's electrical system. No mention of turning off my AC units and unplugging my coach before starting and connecting my generator is in the owner's manual. This is what the dealership is suggesting I practice. I plan to contact Heartland directly to discuss this further. If having my AC controllers ON while starting my generator is causing excessive current flow through my transfer switch module, then why does the owner's manual not address this condition? More to come. Thanks for all the advice!

Darin

 

[FiremanBill]

I almost never shut my A/C down before pulling in the slides, well not in hot weather anyway... I'm with the others, that's a "I don't know so I'll tell you this to make myself look smart" answer.

 

[scottyb]

Wiser1s, After having 2 ATS's fail in 8 months, I think I finally found the problem, that caused them to fail. I discovered this when I attempted to install the 3rd ATS and I was getting intermittent voltage across the ATS. I started back tracking to the generator and found the faulty wiring in the J-box. The neutral was only making contact by a few strands of wire and the wire nut was scorched. I re-landed all the connections, and so far, the ATS is working perfectly. I went through the "Start / Don't Start the generator while connected to shore power" conversation as well.

I also pull the slides in/out with the AC's on. When it's 105 degrees, that's just what you do.

 

[porthole]

There is some "logic" built into your systems (apparently more then your dealer).


There is no reason you can't leave everything on that you normally would while opening and closing the slides.
Having a Toy Hauler means you already have a larger converter then average (your 12 volt charger - supply). TH's get an 80 amp converter, most of the others get a 50 amp.


There is no reason you can't leave your rig connected to shore power when you start your genny.
If you are on shore power and start the genny, after a short warm up period the ATS will automatically switch to genny power. Shut the genny down and it automatically switches back to shore.


The ATS is a 2 input in 1 input out, either a or b, and is controlled by large relays. There have been a few issues with ATS's and it seems as most have been due to the way they are wired, not the switch itself. And there are good and just OK switches made. If I had a continous ATS problem I think I would swap it out for a Progressive brand unit.