adding a 7k 58 amp generator
- Thread starter Angler
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
An RV with 50 amp service has two mains, each carrying 50 amps, for a total of 12,000 watts. A 7,000 watt generator provides less power in total and on each main. If you have 3 air conditioners, you should be able to power all 3 at the same time. No changes to your existing electrical should be needed.
For the benefit of other owners whose trailers have a PCS power control system (Landmark 365, some Cyclones, and perhaps a few others), the PCS device is programmed such that the generator will be treated as though it has a maximum of 5,500 watts. I'm pretty sure your Bighorn doesn't have a PCS device.
For the benefit of other owners whose trailers have a PCS power control system (Landmark 365, some Cyclones, and perhaps a few others), the PCS device is programmed such that the generator will be treated as though it has a maximum of 5,500 watts. I'm pretty sure your Bighorn doesn't have a PCS device.
centerline
Well-known member
when adding a generator to a trailer, is good to install an Automatic Transfer Switch also.....
find where the shore power cord comes out of the underbelly and then goes to the backside of the Power Distribution Panel, then pull on it and see how much slack it has laying in the underbelly of the trailer...
if it has enough slack (mine did) it can be cut in such a manner that it can be connected in to the ATS between both ends of the umbilical without having to mess with the PDP connections... if it doesnt have enough slack, you will need a short piece of heavy wire like it to reach between the ATS and the PDP
then simply connect the wires from the genset to the GENERATOR terminals of the ATS...
the installation of the generator unit and the fuel tank into the trailer is a lot more demanding than integrating the power from it into the system...
find where the shore power cord comes out of the underbelly and then goes to the backside of the Power Distribution Panel, then pull on it and see how much slack it has laying in the underbelly of the trailer...
if it has enough slack (mine did) it can be cut in such a manner that it can be connected in to the ATS between both ends of the umbilical without having to mess with the PDP connections... if it doesnt have enough slack, you will need a short piece of heavy wire like it to reach between the ATS and the PDP
then simply connect the wires from the genset to the GENERATOR terminals of the ATS...
the installation of the generator unit and the fuel tank into the trailer is a lot more demanding than integrating the power from it into the system...
centerline
Well-known member
58 amps at 120v is the "total" output the generator is capable of, which is the same as 63A @ 110v.... which is a little over 31amps at 220v or 29a @ 240v....
BUT..... thegenerator may not be capable of 220v output, which can only happen if the 2 individual legs of 110v power are being produced "out of phase" with one another.....most onan generators designed for RV or marine use 2 legs of 110v power that are "in phase" with each other, and so they cant react with each other to produce a 220v circuit.
this arrangement makes it much more difficult for someone to burn up all the components in the trailer, or causing it to all catch on fire when someone fiddles with the power system without the proper knowledge of what they are doing... (ive seen several times where ALL the 110v components in RV's get fried due to someone not understanding the relationship with 220v shore power to 50amp RV service)...
the actual amperage numbers will be determined by what voltage the generator is actually putting out.... but it will give close enough to 30a on each leg of 110v circuits to have no need for concern.... this should be enough power to run every component in the trailer, all at the same time....
Flick
Well-known member
There is only one way to hook up a 50a plug at the pedestal. The rv panel distributes the power into two 120v circuits. So unless someone has tinkered with the rv breaker box, you’ll only get 120v on each leg and not 240v collectively.
On the other hand, if someone wires a 30a pedestal as 240v instead of 120v, you can fry your appliances with the extra hot that is supposed to be a neutral.
porthole
Retired
A properly wired campground 50 amp pedestal is 120/240. That means a properly wired trailer and power cord will have 120/240 at the trailer's breaker panel, L1 and L2. IF you have a Precision Circuits PMS system installed it needs the 120/240 service to operate as designed.
- - - Updated - - -
Which one are you looking at? And if you don't already know it, many of the Onan RV gens are available in 240. They are white instead of green and are listed as commercial. Pricing is pretty close.
Which one are you looking at? And if you don't already know it, many of the Onan RV gens are available in 240. They are white instead of green and are listed as commercial. Pricing is pretty close.[/QUOTE]
Its an RV generator.
Its an RV generator.
| Model Number | 7.0HGJAB-6756 |
| Manufacturer | Cummins Onan |
| Made In USA | Yes |
| Rated Watts | 7kW |
| Rated Amps | 58.3 |
| Voltage | 120V Single Phase |
porthole
Retired
Gasoline? Figure out what you are doing yet for the fuel tank?
Here is one of the commercial units, this one is fuel injected.
https://www.absolutegenerators.com/...-qE2ZtWKphMGeOqyZuyaIQ3gttk1hB_IaAhT8EALw_wcB
For the fuel tank, I'm going to have one made the my truck which will be removable.
Cheaper price from Norwall in Lake Havasu AZ. Free shipping too. That's where I ordered mine from.
https://www.norwall.com/products/Cu...7-0-Gasoline-EFI-120-240V-EVAP-7.0HGJAD-6760/
Cheaper price from Norwall in Lake Havasu AZ. Free shipping too. That's where I ordered mine from.
https://www.norwall.com/products/Cu...7-0-Gasoline-EFI-120-240V-EVAP-7.0HGJAD-6760/
porthole
Retired
Norwall has some of the best prices, even shipping cross country. Probable going to order our house gen from them and we are on the Delaware coast.
We have the onan diesel gen. I had a fuel tank made at a marine tank fabricator. It mounts under the frame to the door side of the gen. Holds 28 gallons.
I wanted the ability to be able to use auxiliary tank fuel from the truck.
esscobra
Well-known member
I installed the 7k fuel injected onan in my bighorn- runs everything with no issues- middle of texas summer inside racetrac runs both a/c's res fridge converter/charger 3 tvs and sat battery chargers for radios , a treager and mis other phone/ battery chargers and cooking appliances- fits right in gen prepped spot, ordered the 40 propane tank option and put fuel tank in place of 1 propane tank, 14gal tank, easy to fill from a pump or 5 gal can
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centerline
Well-known member
no one calls it " 50amp, dual 120v legs of out-of-phase power".... so in proper terms, a 50a pedestal DOES supply "240v split phase power", which is sometimes called single phase, but single phase is technically a 120v term, as there is only a single phase, where as 240v has 2 phases that can be split, or used together, as the devices require...
without special uncommon equipment, there is no way to get 240v on a single wire.... a 50amp RV circuit is simply a 240v circuit with a neutral added so that the legs can be "split" and used individually as (2) 120v legs, but if you wanted to connect a welder or other 240v device up to it, it will work just perfect..
but its how the 240v circuit with the neutral wire, connects into the "specific" distribution panel which determines what you get out of the outlets... commonly used in america are 120v panels, 240v panels, and 3 phase panels, which are all arraigned/assembled differently inside to handle and distribute the power as desired.
if you had a 240v appliance in the rv, (some do) you wouldnt need a different power post or cord going into the trailer, but you would need the same 50a service, AND a distribution panel to utilize the 240v power that the cord is bringing in.
240v power does not require a neutral or a ground to operate properly, but only the 2 legs of out-of-phase power.... north american standards call for a 3rd wire in the circuit to be used as a "case ground" to prevent electrical shock in the event of an insulation failure in the wiring or device.
RV plugs and receptacles are different than home/shop plugs and receptacles are due to the need for the neutral wire, and even though they are commonly called "50a RV plugs", they are used in other applications as well.
50a RV service is more difficult to understand than the simple home wiring, and it can only be properly understood if one has an understanding of how 120 and 240 "home" power works.... its the same but with an extra wire, and different in how the power is distributed within the specific RV distribution panel inside the RV.
Flick
Well-known member
Thanks for the long explanation. I’ll read it sometimes when I get time. Lol.
centerline
Well-known member
yes, when you have the time.... if everyone would read more of the information offered, they would have a better understanding of stuff and there would be a lot less guessing and mistakes being made, and a LOT more of a money savings when one of their systems needs worked on...
it seems that most people would rather bypass the proper information, and learn about the important and sometimes dangerous stuff the expensive way.... or pass on their erroneous information to someone who is in search of the correct information...
its not a bad thing to know the facts when dealing with electricity...
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