Advice to set up in permanent site

[MarkD]

Good evening
I am new to this site. I am going to place a 3200Re in a permanent site. On the blacktop the bottom of slideout is 22 inches. There is a deck built on site, with 2 levels.The lowest is 15 inches high, running about 94 inches. The next level is 27 inches high from ground running 90 inches long.
My question is, is there a device available to back the camper up onto that will allow the slide out to clear the deck? Thanks for any all all advice

 

[JohnDar]

You could use 1” paving stones to make pads for your tires to sit on to raise the rig. Put an angle ramp of wood in front of them to back up onto the pads. You may need extra blocking under the jacks, as well. The less you have to extend jacks, the greater the stability.


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[Garypowell]

Mark,

My best advice, although I am not 100% sure of your rig and deck situation, is to remove the decorative part of the slide skirt. You will probably know that there is a horizontal piece of trim that hides the interface between the actual slide room and this piece of metal that simply hangs down to make it "pretty".

By removing this piece of metal you might get your self the clearance you need. Once in place you can fabricate another cover piece and hang it the same way the original piece was hooked on and put the trim back up. Take the original metal piece and put it under the rig in case you decide to move it again.

Not sure if this idea will give you the clearance you need.....

If not, or in conjunction with that here is how I leveled our rig when we put it on a permanent site.

Once we were on the site basically as we wanted, but not level, I lowered the front as far as it would go. As you will understand this lifted the tail as high as it could go. I then put blocking under the tail as tightly as I could fit it. Then went back and raised the front to level the rig out.

The point of doing this was to get as much weight off of the suspension as possible. My belief is much of the "bouncing" we had felt while staying temporary over the years of our travel, was due to the suspension still being "engaged".

I then took bottle jacks at about 8 more points and raised the frame till everything was level and blocked it as secure as possible.

We still had a little bounce so I then went back under and lifted up the suspension and blocked it too, then let the air out of the tires......solid as a rock now.

I have a DirecTV dish hooked to the pin box of the rig and each year we come back it needs no adjusting to get 99% signal so I know the rig is basically not moving. Certainly when the Splendide goes into its spin cycle we feel it......but it is less than we we were free standing.

If my first idea is not going to work you could simply continue to push your unit higher and higher with bottle jacks to get it to a point that your room trim piece will clear. Only you can decide how stable the unit ends up being at the height you need.

One other thing to mention. I used bigger patio step concrete blocks at each blocking point to give the most stable base under the wood or whatever you choose to use. I used a lot of plastic wood......stable and I did not have to worry about rot.

Good luck!

Gary

 

[MarkD]

Mark,

My best advice, although I am not 100% sure of your rig and deck situation, is to remove the decorative part of the slide skirt. You will probably know that there is a horizontal piece of trim that hides the interface between the actual slide room and this piece of metal that simply hangs down to make it "pretty".

By removing this piece of metal you might get your self the clearance you need. Once in place you can fabricate another cover piece and hang it the same way the original piece was hooked on and put the trim back up. Take the original metal piece and put it under the rig in case you decide to move it again.

Not sure if this idea will give you the clearance you need.....

If not, or in conjunction with that here is how I leveled our rig when we put it on a permanent site.

Once we were on the site basically as we wanted, but not level, I lowered the front as far as it would go. As you will understand this lifted the tail as high as it could go. I then put blocking under the tail as tightly as I could fit it. Then went back and raised the front to level the rig out.

The point of doing this was to get as much weight off of the suspension as possible. My belief is much of the "bouncing" we had felt while staying temporary over the years of our travel, was due to the suspension still being "engaged".

I then took bottle jacks at about 8 more points and raised the frame till everything was level and blocked it as secure as possible.

We still had a little bounce so I then went back under and lifted up the suspension and blocked it too, then let the air out of the tires......solid as a rock now.

I have a DirecTV dish hooked to the pin box of the rig and each year we come back it needs no adjusting to get 99% signal so I know the rig is basically not moving. Certainly when the Splendide goes into its spin cycle we feel it......but it is less than we we were free standing.

If my first idea is not going to work you could simply continue to push your unit higher and higher with bottle jacks to get it to a point that your room trim piece will clear. Only you can decide how stable the unit ends up being at the height you need.

One other thing to mention. I used bigger patio step concrete blocks at each blocking point to give the most stable base under the wood or whatever you choose to use. I used a lot of plastic wood......stable and I did not have to worry about rot.

Good luck!

Gary

Thanks for your advice. It is greatly appreciated.