Anybody ever converted to disc brakes as a DIY?
- Thread starter teasac69
- Start date
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
I have a friend who tried to order the kit from Titan and he has had quite the runaround. His story is that they don't have a local rep so he went through regional. Apparently the kit was ordered and awaiting production but status calls went unanswered. He finally called the factory and someone was going to check the status and get back within the hour. Guess what? To my knowledge, he still doesn't have the kit. They did tell him the install was a weekend project. Keep in mind this is all hearsay and not intended to impugn Titan, but rather relate an anecdotal situation.
Westwind
Well-known member
My buddy is in the process of installing the TiTan disk brakes on his 2008 Sunnybrook Titan. He is a retired Diesel mechanic and is very good at mechanical work and he has done a great job so far. Nice and neat. If you have pulled your wheels an packed wheel bearings or installed brakes you might do well. Installing the control unit wiring, locating the correct wires in the FW are a challenge. He had a tube bender which allowed him to bend the brake lines for installation etc. He didn't order the spacers for fitting the brake housing to the axles and that is holding him up right now. For $11 I would have ordered them from the start just in case. Don't know what your skill level is but if you have done mechanical work I say try it. Just have a backup plan.
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
Great video, Dave.
teasac69
Well-known member
Dave, thanks for the excellent video. I'm sure it will come in handy. I do still have the question on how to select the right kit. Kodiak seems to list 3-4 versions of the same size, and which one is right?? Also, there are different actuators and need to pick the right one. I guess my basic question is how do you know which one to use for your trailer. I'm going to call Kodiak and give them my axle configuration and hopefully they can guide. is there anything you would do differently, buy ready to use or change about your install?? about how much did you spend to get yours converted?
thanks a ton for all your help.
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
The friend I mentioned in the earlier post indicated that Titan wanted to know the lug nut size (and thread pitch) on his rig; save on new lug nuts, I guess. I was also confused by the number of kits available and which would be correct for my rig...just not to the point of calling them.
Westwind
Well-known member
They should fit the kit to your trailer axles. The hydraulic pump on my buddies is Titan the brake setup is Kodiak. He got his spacers today so he had the mounting brackets on the axles today and should start installing the brakes tomorrow. To the unexperienced me the hardest part was positioning the pump, wiring and running the brake lines.
All the brake work looks pretty straight forward. He positioned the pump near his propane tank compartment so that he would have a good avenue to run the brake lines.
He has no complaints about Titan, they seem to have shipped everything to him nice and quickly, even the spacers that he should have ordered from the get go.
All the brake work looks pretty straight forward. He positioned the pump near his propane tank compartment so that he would have a good avenue to run the brake lines.
He has no complaints about Titan, they seem to have shipped everything to him nice and quickly, even the spacers that he should have ordered from the get go.
codycarver
Founding Wyoming Chapter Leader-retired
Been awhile since I converted mine. I seem to remember two stud sizes, raw, e coat, or stainless disc application for marine or salt air applications. I went with the e coat, Carlisle actuator, 3/8 inch steel line to a 1/4" flexible line. The flex line I used is from an 80's vintage Chevy blazer/ C10 pick-up. I figured if I needed to replace one it would an easy find in most any parts store.
I keep extra bearings, 25' of tubing, flare kit, two flexible lines, tee's, reducers, and fluid. In case of a blow out or other road damage I can rebuild one complete side.
When all was said and one I think I ended up around $2200.00
I keep extra bearings, 25' of tubing, flare kit, two flexible lines, tee's, reducers, and fluid. In case of a blow out or other road damage I can rebuild one complete side.
When all was said and one I think I ended up around $2200.00
Yes, with a different seal I could have used the oil bath.
But after looking at a few coaches that came with the oil bath, I noticed that several were leaking and decided to stay with grease.
Peace
Dave
You are on the right track to call Kodiak. They will tell you exactly what you need.
I am not recommending this, but I used cheap Chinese bearings and seals. I know how I did the job and I feel comfortable knowing that the bearings were done right. They have been going for 4 years and a lot of miles. This summer I intend to clean and repack the bearings along with installing some new $2.50 seals.
I am not at home right now so I don't have access to the receipts but I think the total cost was around $1,900.
I recommend using 1/4" steel brake line from the actuator to the axles. You may need a new fitting on the actuator as they usually come with a fitting for 3/16" line.
As far as the actuator, I think they are all good. I used the Carlisle. They will send that 1/4" fitting to you free.
I bought the Kodiak parts, bearings and seals from a local trailer shop. Flex tube and supports from Bludot. The fittings and lines came from a local auto parts store.
Peace
Dave
wdk450
Well-known member
I have the Kodiak system installed by MorRyde in Elkhart. The wheel assemblies they used are for oil lubrication, but they pack them with grease. The oil/grease discussion has been on previous threads on this forum, with the consensus being that although semi trailers use oil bearings, too many problems have been seen by RVers with cracked oil cup covers, oil leaking out, and the like. Packed grease seems to be the preferred wheel bearing lubricant among RVers.
Titanguy
Well-known member
The integrated Hub/Rotor comes in 4 finishes. The only thing is Dacromet.
1. Automotive, has no coating and will rust
2. Ecoat, which will provide minimal rust deterent.
3. Dacromet, which will resist rust in salt water applications
4. Stainless Steel, only used in salt water applications because of the high cost.
There are 3 main Hub/Rotor sizes
10" which are all 5 hole wheels - all 5 hole are 1/2" studs
12" which are all 6 hole wheels, 5.2k & 6k axles - all 6 hole are 1/2" studs
13" which are all 8 hole wheels on 6k, 7k, 7.2k & 8k axles. Can be 1/2", 9/16" or 5/8" studs.
Fitment on 8 hole wheel applications is best accomplished by furnishing me the axle serial# and I will get all the axle spec's from the Mfg.
Complete Kit pricing should be,
$1350 on 10"
$1550 on 12"
$1750 on 13"
and include new bearings, seals, additional wiring, wiring connectors, looms, brake flange bolts, clips, self tapping screws etc. Everything needed to complete a DIY Install.
1. Automotive, has no coating and will rust
2. Ecoat, which will provide minimal rust deterent.
3. Dacromet, which will resist rust in salt water applications
4. Stainless Steel, only used in salt water applications because of the high cost.
There are 3 main Hub/Rotor sizes
10" which are all 5 hole wheels - all 5 hole are 1/2" studs
12" which are all 6 hole wheels, 5.2k & 6k axles - all 6 hole are 1/2" studs
13" which are all 8 hole wheels on 6k, 7k, 7.2k & 8k axles. Can be 1/2", 9/16" or 5/8" studs.
Fitment on 8 hole wheel applications is best accomplished by furnishing me the axle serial# and I will get all the axle spec's from the Mfg.
Complete Kit pricing should be,
$1350 on 10"
$1550 on 12"
$1750 on 13"
and include new bearings, seals, additional wiring, wiring connectors, looms, brake flange bolts, clips, self tapping screws etc. Everything needed to complete a DIY Install.
Last edited by a moderator:
wdk450
Well-known member
Titanguy:
From your username I am thinking you might be a Titan technician. You said that the Titan kit includes everything for the install, but you did not list brake line tubing or flex brake lines. Also, does Titan recommend 3/16 or 1/4 inch steel lines? If you have to use size adapters at each end of the 1/4 inch tubing, does that compromise the larger tubing volume due to the smaller orfices in the actuator, disk brake calipers and adapters?
My Kodiak system installed by MorRyde with a Carlysle actuator seems to have about a 3 second lag to full braking pressure in its system. I assume this is due to the actuator pump having to try to instantly ramp up hydraulic pressure to a hard braking demand. Have any engineers ever thought of using a constant pressure hydraulic pressure accumulator along with a brake controller actuated proportional pressure valve to the calipers? This would give instantaneous hydraulic pressure response.
From your username I am thinking you might be a Titan technician. You said that the Titan kit includes everything for the install, but you did not list brake line tubing or flex brake lines. Also, does Titan recommend 3/16 or 1/4 inch steel lines? If you have to use size adapters at each end of the 1/4 inch tubing, does that compromise the larger tubing volume due to the smaller orfices in the actuator, disk brake calipers and adapters?
My Kodiak system installed by MorRyde with a Carlysle actuator seems to have about a 3 second lag to full braking pressure in its system. I assume this is due to the actuator pump having to try to instantly ramp up hydraulic pressure to a hard braking demand. Have any engineers ever thought of using a constant pressure hydraulic pressure accumulator along with a brake controller actuated proportional pressure valve to the calipers? This would give instantaneous hydraulic pressure response.
Titanguy
Well-known member
Yes, I represent Titan at RV Shows & rallies doing seminars and work with dealers on install training.
The standard tandem axle tubing kit consists of flex lines (18") to the caliper also a 12" flex line connecting to the actuator. Titan uses 3/16 bendable metal tubing. 1/4" is not necessary on tandems but on triple axle you do need more volume so 1/4" is the standard for the main line then 3/16" T and crossovers to the calipers. You need the volume in the main line only.
The 3 second lag is excessive. In bench tests, the Titan EHB activates in .3 sec while the Carlisle & Dexter activates in 1-1.1 sec. Activation is 250 psi, where you start seeing meaningful braking. You are saying full braking pressure. I am not sure what that means as most Electric/Hydraulic systems never obtain the 1500-1600 psi except in bench tests. In bench tests the Titan actuator reaches full pressure in .9 sec. There is no need for a accumulator with the Titan actuator.
I think you have something else going on to create a 3 sec. response time.
Check blue wire, brake controller voltage at the truck 7 way. Then check the same at the actuator. There should be no voltage drop.
Check the ground wire (white) this should be grounded in the pin box not frame grounded.
Notice you are in Ca. I will be at Quartzsite in Jan. and would be glad to look at it for you if you are around.
The standard tandem axle tubing kit consists of flex lines (18") to the caliper also a 12" flex line connecting to the actuator. Titan uses 3/16 bendable metal tubing. 1/4" is not necessary on tandems but on triple axle you do need more volume so 1/4" is the standard for the main line then 3/16" T and crossovers to the calipers. You need the volume in the main line only.
The 3 second lag is excessive. In bench tests, the Titan EHB activates in .3 sec while the Carlisle & Dexter activates in 1-1.1 sec. Activation is 250 psi, where you start seeing meaningful braking. You are saying full braking pressure. I am not sure what that means as most Electric/Hydraulic systems never obtain the 1500-1600 psi except in bench tests. In bench tests the Titan actuator reaches full pressure in .9 sec. There is no need for a accumulator with the Titan actuator.
I think you have something else going on to create a 3 sec. response time.
Check blue wire, brake controller voltage at the truck 7 way. Then check the same at the actuator. There should be no voltage drop.
Check the ground wire (white) this should be grounded in the pin box not frame grounded.
Notice you are in Ca. I will be at Quartzsite in Jan. and would be glad to look at it for you if you are around.
wdk450
Well-known member
Titanguy:
Thanks for your explanations and Quartzsite offer. I had been thinking about going there again after a 2 year lapse, especially with the predictions of massive El Nino rains in California this rainy season. I'll have to get my generator running again. I'll keep your username and PM you later on if things go that way.
I think I will call MorRyde and pick their brains on the delay issue. I will do the voltage checks you suggest. I am not scheduled to move my rig until Labor day, though.
Thanks for your explanations and Quartzsite offer. I had been thinking about going there again after a 2 year lapse, especially with the predictions of massive El Nino rains in California this rainy season. I'll have to get my generator running again. I'll keep your username and PM you later on if things go that way.
I think I will call MorRyde and pick their brains on the delay issue. I will do the voltage checks you suggest. I am not scheduled to move my rig until Labor day, though.
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