Anybody using Blue Ox Weight distribution hitch on the NT?

[Ks.Kev]

Got a quick question on the Blue Ox weight distribution on a NT 22 FBS
When purchased, this is what they put on my TT, researched it and seems like a good one.
BUT
It is sooo hard to hook up the spring bar chains and then letting them back down.
So I checked the weight spec of the bars and its for 1000 lbs. !!!!
I think this is my problem, if memory serves me, total MAX hitch weight on the unit is 500 lbs.
I got TOO heavy of spring bars!
So, does anyone have the brand of WD hitch and what is their bars rated at?
Did they give me the wrong rated springs?
Under the bars there is dots or dimples that indicate what weight they are rated at.

No Dots = 350 lb
1 Dots = 550 lb
2 Dots = 750 lb
3 Dots = 1000 lb (this is what they put on mine)
4 Dots = 1500 lb
5 Dots = 2000 lb

So, Do I have a "Way too heavy rated " Spring Bars?? SHOULD I have the "1 Dot" 550 lb spring bars?
Any help/comments is appreciated!

 

[jimtoo]

Moved thread to better area.

 

[Silverado23]

Although I have an Equal-I-zer, the spring bars used are based on tongue weight.

Considering the dry weight of your trailer is in the neighborhood of 5000 and 10% for tongue is 500lbs. Then the GVWR of your NT is 6900 and 15% tongue is 1035, The spring bars are probably the correct ones.


The owners manual may be able to assist in your issue.
http://blueox.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/BXW035005500750100015002000.pdf


Are you raising the tongue of your trailer before you set spring bars or setting them after the entire tongue weight is on the hitch?
From the owners manual on Hooking up:
Optional: Supporting the trailer tongueweight with the trailer jack eases the tension on the spring bar chains and allows easier latching.

From my experience, This can really make a big difference in setting and removing of spring bars. It can be safer and certainly is much easier.

Hooking Up
1. Install the hitch head/receiver mount assembly into the towing vehicle receiver tube and secure
with the 5/8” x 3” pin and clip.
2. Couple the trailer to the hitch head.
3. Install both spring bars into the bar pivot tubes.
4. Confirm that both of the rotating latches are tight on the tongue.
5. Attach the spring bar chains to the rotating latches with the appropriate chain link. Apply tension
to the spring bar by using the wrench to rotate the latch counter-clockwise until the locking pin
on the latch engages. Do this on both sides of the trailer.
Optional: Supporting the trailer tongueweight with the trailer jack eases the tension on the spring bar chains and allows easier latching.

 

[JohnD]

Sounds like your dealer didn't show you how to hook up the WD stuff correctly!

The idea is to have your tow vehicle level so that the front end is not too light, which will cause the tow vehicle to wander if the front is high and the rear end is low.

Plus, you always want to have your trailer level when rolling down the road.

First . . . start off with a full tank of gas . . .

What you have to do is put the trailer on the truck ball, clamp down the hitch on the ball, then raise the truck and trailer until both are level (I actually go a few cranks above level as the whole thing will settle a little low if you don't), then put all of the WD stuff on, then lower the tongue of the trailer until the crank post is not touching ground anymore.

If it in not level, then you'll need to raise it up a little higher, then reattach the stuff again!

After a few times, you'll get the hang of it.

By the by . . . when you get to your destination and what to unhook, make sure you raise the tongue of the trailer up to take the pressure off before you try to remove the WD setup!

I know a guy who broke his foot because he didn't know about this part of the procedure.

Here is a shot of my DrawTite WD setup with Reese sway bar, and the second shot of my rig hitched up and level:

 

[Ks.Kev]

Thanks all,
Maybe I need to do the Supporting the trailer tongue weight with the trailer jack eases the tension on the spring bar chains and allows easier latching.

​

 

[JohnD]

Thanks all,
Maybe I need to do the Supporting the trailer tongue weight with the trailer jack eases the tension on the spring bar chains and allows easier latching.​

Yes!

Just remember that before you hook up or take off your WD setup that you need to take the pressure off of the hitch!

 

[JohnD]

So, Do I have a "Way too heavy rated " Spring Bars?? SHOULD I have the "1 Dot" 550 lb spring bars?
Any help/comments is appreciated!

By the by . . . better to have it more than enough . . . than not enough!

We were lucky in the fact that our WD setup was purchased 15 years ago for our old trailer, but was still more than we needed when we purchased our new Trail Runner back in 2012!

To replace all of that would have been around $1500 buckeroos!

If you ever come out this way (Denver metro area) . . . I'll give you a demonstration of the hookup!

Oh . . . another by the by . . . join the Heartland Owners Club (HOC) and go to one of your local HOC rallies . . .

And it is free for the first year!

Not only will you make a bunch of new friends, but you'll also be able to tap them for their knowledge and experience of RV related issues!

 

[Jasonrs1319]

I had the same set-up on previous tt at 32' I was at about 850 on tongue weight. Was perfect for me and easy to hook up. The 275506 bars may be a better option for you though. As a reminder hook chains up prior to letting the trailer off of the front Jack