Battery or Charging problems with 2011 Elkridge

[RamblinFever]

We've had our Elkridge for two months now. Recently I noticed some fumes coming from the battery vent. The battery was low on electrolyte so I added some distilled water. After charging overnight, noticed the same fumes again. I unplugged from 120v and noticed the batter case was quite warm. I went to NAPA and they pronounced the battery OK but ntill needed some charging. At this point I'm not usre if it is a battery problem or that od the trailer charging system. Anyone have a similar problem? I'd go back to the dealer but after you drive away with it, they don't want a thing to do with it or even be of help.

 

[Jim.Allison]

Chargers should have a temperature sensor on them. More advanced chargers do. Batteries should never be charged to capacity in temperatures beyond 90 degrees. Your charger cannot know what the temp of the batt is if it has no temp sensor. You are definitely overcharging your battery, and boiling off the water. Caution; you are not boiling off "electrolyte", only water. Do not add electrolyte, just distilled water. The acid is still in the batt . In the winter the opposite is true, it is difficult to charge a cold battery and your charger cannot know how much charge to supply to charge it without a temp sensor.

Your charger's charge curve is based on a happy medium. Depending on the brand there may be a temp sensor accessory that you can buy.

To sum it up, a fully charge battery is considered charged at a lower voltage when it is hot. My advice is to charge it to about 12.7 volts and maintain it there until you need to use it, then charge to 13.4 max. Your battery will love you for it.

We've had our Elkridge for two months now. Recently I noticed some fumes coming from the battery vent. The battery was low on electrolyte so I added some distilled water. After charging overnight, noticed the same fumes again. I unplugged from 120v and noticed the batter case was quite warm. I went to NAPA and they pronounced the battery OK but ntill needed some charging. At this point I'm not usre if it is a battery problem or that od the trailer charging system. Anyone have a similar problem? I'd go back to the dealer but after you drive away with it, they don't want a thing to do with it or even be of help.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Jim, the battery may check good, but, it could be that the lead plates have a bad case of sulfate coating. That can make a battery boil when charging. The converter might possibly be bad. You need to check the charging rate at the battery to see if it's charging more than 13.2 volts. BTW, how old is the battery?

 

[RamblinFever]

No idea how old. The dealer usually removes batteries and LP tanks on the used trailers until sold. The date was never set on the battery. I will probably deal with this later since im going to be using hookups instead of dry camping.

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[Jim.Allison]

The date may be in code format on the battery post. An example might be "A4" or some other combination of letters or numbers.

No idea how old. The dealer usually removes batteries and LP tanks on the used trailers until sold. The date was never set on the battery. I will probably deal with this later since im going to be using hookups instead of dry camping.

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[RamblinFever]

The Interstate battery has a "J4" at the negative post.

 

[cookie]

The Interstate battery has a "J4" at the negative post.

HERE is an explanation of battery codes.

Peace
Dave

 

[RamblinFever]

Refer, radio, monitor - No Power

Everything was fine for a while. The dealer finally contacted me and gave me a brand new battery. I disconnected the 110v from the house and installed the battery, connected ground first. There was a small spark when I connected the hot lead. Now I'm finding out I have no power to the refrigerator, stereo, awning, and monitor panel. Everything else works. Checked all breakers and fuses. No problem there. I'm at my wits end since I'm supposed to head out in 14 more hours. Anyone care to figure this out?

 

[RamblinFever]

Thanks for the link. Dealer finally contacted me and gaveme a new battery. Now, the refer, radio, and monitor panel isnt working. Breakers and fuses ok.

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[jnbhobe]

Re: Refer, radio, monitor - No Power

Check the breaker the battery hooks to it is a manual reset, look for a little black button on the end of the breaker.

 

[RamblinFever]

Re: Refer, radio, monitor - No Power

At the battery or breaker? Didn't find anything either place.

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[jnbhobe]

Re: Refer, radio, monitor - No Power

One of the breakers with the red covers is a manual reset

 

[RamblinFever]

Re: Refer, radio, monitor - No Power

nothing

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[RamblinFever]

Most everything works. Tv, micro, lights, etc. The only things no working is the refrigerator, stereo,.. and monitor panel. It just doesnt make sense. Traileris plugged into our house power.

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[jnbhobe]

Re: Refer, radio, monitor - No Power

Check the breaker with the red cover on it right by the battery

 

[RamblinFever]

The four in the photo are identical, no reset button.

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[boatto5er]

The button would be on the bottom of the breaker. On the one with the red cover it should be near where the green wire comes up.


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[danemayer]

The spark when connecting power may have blown the fuses that are located on the Power Converter. When you're plugged into shore power, the Converter supplies 12V DC to the refrigerator, to the thermostat (A/C and Furnace operation), water heater propane operation, most of your interior and exterior lights.

The Power Converter fuses can also be blown if you install the battery backwards (wrong polarity). You should have a teeny-tiny reset button on one of the 12V mini-circuit breakers near the battery, but even if you don't, if the battery is backwards, none of your 12V stuff will work until you correct the problem with battery polarity and with the blown fuses on the converter.

 

[RamblinFever]

Battery isnt backwards

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[danemayer]

Ok, check the fuses on the Power Converter. It's usually behind the rear wall of the pass through basement storage.