Brand new and leaking

[Niles]

Our ball valve on our old 310 broke in half, so we just bit the bullet and ordered a new 310 toilet. Now when you flush the foot pedal has water run out of it, did I get one with a bad valve? Not sure what else it could be. And on another note, has anyone replaced the foam seal with a wax seal, any problems? It just seems to make sense to me to use a wax seal. Thanks

 

[wdk450]

Here is a video on replacing the water valve:

Maybe the 2 water valve retaining screws were missing from your toilet, as they were on the toilet in the video, also making it leak.

I am guessing that a foam base seal might be better in an RV because the bouncing going down the road would compress parts of the wax type seal PERMANENTLY, setting up channels for waste leaks; where the foam gasket would apply steady springy pressure to maintain the seal after and during road bumps.

 

[Niles]

Thanks for the reply, yes I did replace the foot valve, 20 min job, it does seem to take care of both issues. As for the wax ring if your toilet is bolted down tight how is it going to bounce? It is a concern that they don't do a better job of Quaility control.

 

[LBR]

Ours developed a cracked floor flange around 1 of the bolt heads. Emptied/flushed the tank, removed commode, and decided to use a metal repair flange and rubber seal.

The repair flange is pretty stout metal for the repair but I wanted to mount the commode base on something light and bulletproof to eliminate the base from ever rocking on the flexing wood floor with soft linoleum overlay.

After the toss-up between aluminum or UHMW, I chose the latter. I had a 12"x12" tile of 1/4" UHMW, templated the commode base then added 1" more overall larger, and cut. Cut the inside out for flange and rubber seal, then mounted everything back together.

Now all that's visually different is commode has a 1" black ring around it's entire base and is 1/4" higher....no way it will become a side-rocker again with metal flange and entire base that is bulletproof.

 

[Niles]

Sounds like you did make it bulletproof, if I see anymore leakage may have to do the same. Ours has never really rocked, but never been happy with a piece of foam for seal. How long ago did you , LBR, do your repair?

 

[wdk450]

Regarding rubber vs was base seal, see: https://www.rvandplaya.com/rv-toilets-wax-rings/

 

[LBR]

Sounds like you did make it bulletproof, if I see anymore leakage may have to do the same. Ours has never really rocked, but never been happy with a piece of foam for seal. How long ago did you , LBR, do your repair?

Couple of years ago...Home Depot has you covered for supplies....

 

[wdk450]

I'm pretty sure the Fluidmaster seal was my choice of a premium base seal when I replaced my toilet a few years ago.

 

[Routemaster]

I just bought one of these Fluidmaster I would have thought that this ring at the top face would go over the horn on the loo but appears only to sit on the face, is that right?
Before I found this post I called them up and no reply yet.
Den.

 

[Routemaster]

A couple of years ago I installed a Dometic 320 elongated toilet in this coach and recently the foot pedal fell off on the removal of the loo I found the floor is rotten on one side and see rust in the mounting holes on both sides. I cleaned all the parts with "The Works" which came out clean. now the four bolts as you can see are rusty these bolts fix the pedestal to the bowl. Not being a loo mechanic, it looks to me that the black water migrates around the gasket. The + dowels are quite to the horse track moulding in #058 I can see the across-the-grove in gasket white stuff.
The gasket thicknesses measure .145" and was wondering if I could make a new gasket out of rubber. I took these pictures with my flip phone not as large as before.
What do you reckon on this lot?
Den.